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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
17\" WHEEL INSTALL on SLABBY

Looking for a written artical 'HOW-TO', installing 17" wheels on a Slabby.
I have an 88 GSXR1100j, looking for help.
Thanks! Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Re: 17\" WHEEL INSTALL on SLABBY

What? All the knowledgeable Gear Heads in this Forum, and NoBody knows where to find the info. on one of the most popular upgrades done on oil cooled bikes?
 

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Re: 17\" WHEEL INSTALL on SLABBY

Although I can't help you with this as my bike was fitted with them when I got it. If you look on the "oil cooled Gixxers" forum and see one of the first couple of topics look for the title "Parts interchange for gixers". You might want to ask the person who started that thread as he appears to know a lot about mods. Hope this could help.
 

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Re: 17\" WHEEL INSTALL on SLABBY

Sportrider FEB '95


 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: 17\" WHEEL INSTALL on SLABBY

Thanks Guys! Other than Sport Rider, Wasnt there another magazine artical written about Swapping GSXR wheels?
 

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Re: 17\" WHEEL INSTALL on SLABBY

Was there another page to that Sport Rider article, Dan? It seems like they're just getting into the front wheel conversion on the bottom right corner.
 

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Re: 17\" WHEEL INSTALL on SLABBY

Found this posting waaay back in the forum in here... Another version of the wheel swap...

flyinphill
Back Marker

Reged: 11/06/01
Posts: 72
Loc: Charlotte NC

OK, here'e the deal on this swap. I've done it over the years for at least 20 customers, so I konw the routine by heart.
Rear Wheel: Easy. Use the wheel, inner spacer, spacer between sprocket carrier and wheel, and sprocket carrier from late model wheel. The other spacers can be from either set of wheels. They are slightly different, but the swingarm spreads enough that either set, or a combination of the two, will work.

Rear rotor: The early rotor is a different size from the late rotor, but the bolt pattern is the same. Use either the early rotor and early caliper hanger, or the late rotor and the late caliper hanger. You can't mix the two. The caliper itself is identical, except for the paint.

Front wheel: Late models have 20mm axle, while earlies have either 15 or 17 mm, depending on year. Performance machine makes a nice set of CNC bearing reducers that work perfectly. Buy them, trust me! I have a lathe, and I still buy them. They are a perfect fit, and not worth the hassle. Plus, they have a neat little lip on them that just keeps them from falling through the bearing. It is a direct bolt-on once you have these reducers, using the original early-model spacer on the right. On the left side, you must have the speedo drive that belongs with the late-model wheel, the drives are different. You also need the cable that goes with the speedo drive. The internal gearing is different, to compensate for the different size front wheels. Put it all on, screw it into your original speedo, and it is already calibrated for your new wheel. You also need to either get another set of reducers from PM and cut one short to reduce the drive hub ID, or you can install the left side reducer from inside the wheel. This leaves about .150-200" outside the bearing, which the drive can ride on and be centered.

Rotors: Early rotors will not fit the late-model wheels. Different bolt patterns, different registers. They can be machined to fit, but it is not worth the work in my opinion, you can find a used set of rotors reasonably. Just use the late rotors on the late wheels.

Front calipers: If you have an early 1100 (86-88), then they have the same diameter rotors as the late 750s and 1100. All you have to do is grind some of the inside bleeder nipple off, or remove the nipple, when removing or installing the calipers. They won't fit between the wheel and rotor if you don't. Other than that, the only other problem is that the distance between the rotor centerlines is greater on the late wheels, so the rotors nearly hit, or hit (depending on how true your rotors are) the outside half of the caliper slightly. Fix this by either grinding away a little material from the caliper body (not preferred), or machine (not grind, you can't be precise enough) a small amount of material off of the outside of the mounting ears on the calipers. This moves the calipers slightly outward. I have left this step ot before, but the rotors are EXTREMELY close to the calipers. You need to check this carefully.

If you have an early 750, the rotors are smaller, so the calipers hit badly on the outside of the larger late-model rotors. You could grind away a bunch of the caliper body, but I wouldn't. It weakens the caliper and gets the pads off-center of the rotor Instead, just get a set of early 1100 calipers, and problem solved. They are actually the identical caliper, its just machined with the mounting ear hole in a different location.

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Cycle Concepts
1638 Lynwood Dr.
Lancaster SC 29720
(803) 285-8093
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karl_1052
Supersport Racer

Reged: 11/22/01
Posts: 453
Loc: Ottawa, Canada


flyinphil is spot on.
I did the swap on my 86 1100.

Rear: 93 1100 wheel, cush drive, sprocket, bearing, and 2mm thick washer.

Front: 93 wheel, and bearings. 94 Blue USD forks, tripple clamps, and 6 piston calipers, 88 750 rotors.

I coud have done the spacer route, but just went whole hog for the front end. the only mods were a bit of grinding of the stock steering stops.
 

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Re: 17\" WHEEL INSTALL on SLABBY

Was there another page to that Sport Rider article, Dan? It seems like they're just getting into the front wheel conversion on the bottom right corner.
Yeah, I guess so........lemme see if I can find it..........
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: 17\" WHEEL INSTALL on SLABBY

Thank you for the additional info! I picked up a copy of This SportRider.
I seem to remember another artical written sometime after this one, detailing swapping wheels.
I cant remember the publication.
Again, Many Thanks!
 

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Jurassic Skool
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Re: 17\" WHEEL INSTALL on SLABBY

Sucks about PM and the spacers, but that post is at least a few years back in the forum. You could probably get a machine shop to make the bushings. Any competent shop could probably turn 'em out fairly cheaply. Make sure you've got accurate measurements, or take the bearings, or more of the setup, in with you. Call around first and see who's up to the task.

I just called the wrecker who had the rims I wanted for my conversion, but it turns out they're only 88 750 rims. I thought he had the 1100s. I was going to keep my 18" and remount my new rubber I had just picked up. If I'm going to a 17", I'll go newer on the rims and get a decent 5.5", and a wider front. Back to the drawing board, I guess. I'll keep collecting any info on the conversions I can get my hands on. Those 2 pages Dan posted are saved. Hopefully he's got another page which'll explain the front installation indepth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: 17\" WHEEL INSTALL on SLABBY

Robben,
The 88 750 had a 3.50x17 front and a 4.50x17 rear.
The magazine artical states because of the 'Flimsy' frame, a 4.50x17 was used.
Maybe the 4.50 isnt such a bad choice?
Im going to call, 'Cycle Concepts' tomorrow, maybe Ill get lucky and they will still be in buisness! Please PM me with an E-mail address @ [email protected]
ThankYou again, to ALL who are helping!
 

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Jurassic Skool
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Re: 17\" WHEEL INSTALL on SLABBY

You have a PM.

Didn't really pay attention to the width of the front. I was more excited hearing he had what I thought was the rare 88 1100 rims. I didn't know the front would be 3.5. Bonus. I figure though, if changing the rear to a 17, I might as well go the full 5.5 that would fit inside the stock swingarm. If going to the trouble of changing the brake hanger and what not from the different disc size, might as well get the bigger rim for the effort.


I had just bought a 160/60 Pilot in 18" for the rear and it does seem a bit pinched on the 4" width. The minimum width for that tire is supposed to be 4.5", but they don't make a 150/70 any more, at least not in a radial. That was the plan, at any rate... I think I'll just wear it off and change to 17" rubber, unless I can score the 88 1100 rims in the interim. It's the easiest changeover, and get the 3 spoke rims as well. Well, that's what's on the drawing board I'm back to again. :sigh:
 

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Re: 17\" WHEEL INSTALL on SLABBY

ok so what if i got the newer 17" rim off a 01 GSXR 750? The problem im haveing is that the axel sizes vary between the two, the newer one is much larger then the one from the slabby swinger, what do i do? get custom bearings that allow me to use the slabby axel? Drill out the carriers/swinger to use the larger axel? IM SOO LOST

thanks
victor
 

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Re: 17\" WHEEL INSTALL on SLABBY

Is this the rear you're talking about? Will it even fit in the stock swingarm for the width? You might have clearance problems with the chain and whatnot. If you get it complete, maybe you can modify the swingarm to take the larger axle. Otherwise you're getting bushings or special bearings to reduce all the other components. Six of one, half dozen of the other, as some might say. Plan and price it both ways, and see what's more viable. The smaller axle was sufficient enough for the old rim, so don't let the larger axle sway your choice in that regard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: 17\" WHEEL INSTALL on SLABBY

Ok csobi,
For the FRONT you can use bearing spacers, available at a bearing store.
Use your 17mm axel and the new spacers. you will space the axel to 20 mm.
The rear, according to what everyone tells me, is a 'bolt-in', using a combination of both old and new axel spacers.
The REAR axels are the same diameter.
You will need to measure the distance from the sproket to the swing arm, to get the spacing correct, so you dont have chain fit problems.
The above artical really helps.
I just wish I could down load and print it.
Its too big!
Same goes with the letter from CyCle Concepts!
I can only print half of it!! Both are Too wide!
Regards Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: 17\" WHEEL INSTALL on SLABBY

Talked to Duane at 'CYCLE CONCEPTS', today. He was very nice and very helpful!
The PM spacers are no longer available.
He called and asked them.
MOST people are opting for and using the newer inverted front ends, prior to the SRAD's
91-95 750's and 91-98 1100's according to Cycle Concepts
He explained that the spacers PM used had a saftey lip on them to keep then from sliding
thru the bearing. I asked him if I could have a machine shop make a spacer that ran the entire length of the inner wheel AND would support the new speedo drive for the 17" wheel
(pick-up for the 17" is differant than the 18") he had no problem with that idea.
We will need a newer speedo cable for the newer drive, but, it will fit into and work on our older style speedo's.
The speedo will be accurate, as the newer drive will be calibrated for the 17" wheel.
Cycle Concepts, is a wealth of information. Duane said 'be sure and pass on 'If he can be of any help, to contact him'! A very cool guy.
Regards~ Jim
 
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