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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well hello again fellow gixxer riders. As some of my of had seen, my track bike was up and running before i binned it. Anyway just before my first track day on this bike I had it dyno'd. It came up with 114.1 hp at the rear. Its running a PCIIIr and a full 4-2-1 Staintune system.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i'm new to dyno readouts.. but is that showing 108.4 as stock? that seems optimistic to me?

114.1 is sweet - nice one mate
108.4 is not stock. that is tuned but the 114.1 is after "further" tuning by my mecanic. stock bike is 100-102hp. The second graph (112) is with a modified standard ECU and the 114 is custom map on the PCIIIr.

Hope this clears things up...sorry..
 

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You picked up 12 hp from fuel tuning and exhaust alone???

Did you do base run dyno's on that dyno to get the 101-102 number or are you just assuming that is what it was.

+12 from PC and pipe is quite a lot these days for a modern bike. My GSXR750 only picked up 7 with a Yoshi EMS and full Akro.

Also from the looks of your Dyno runs, did the tuner make the green and red runs in 3rd gear vs 2nd? I see the starting point is different on them. Dyno tuners and supply you higher readings by running your bike in a different gear.....yes it can read different (higher).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
12 hp from these mods is a lot i know thats why im so wrapped. As far as I know the runs were all done in the same gear. I dont have a base dyno as this is the first dyno I have had it on. I bought the bike with all the mods (inc Ohlins suspension) so all I had to do was get the PC tuned. There are a few bikes in the club here that are running 110+ hp
 

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Though your bike does make good hp, i am skeptical that it made that much of a gain. My guess is the dyno you have your bike run on either reads higher numbers than what you thought your bike has stock (perhaps 105 reading) or the operator has the mode settings, errors or what not in a higher reading setting. There are multiple settings you can put the dyno in and it will give different numbers.....error adjustment settings. Some adjust for altitute, some for crank to wheel, etc......the dyno may be in a higher reading one. The adjustments for altitude etc give you what your bike would make at a given.

My guess is with a nice map you prob pick up at a maximum 10hp and thats even pretty high. Your dyno does look to have one rather nasty dip in the curve though. You should be able to pick that up some.
 

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To me HP numbers don't mean shit... What is really important is the A/F ratio, how smooth the HP curve is and time to max HP. You have a pretty nasty dip at about 5800-6300, also at 8500. The only thing I would worry about is that. Who really cares about a numbers shootout. Your Dyno guy should be able to smooth that out a bit.
 

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To me HP numbers don't mean shit... What is really important is the A/F ratio, how smooth the HP curve is and time to max HP. You have a pretty nasty dip at about 5800-6300, also at 8500. The only thing I would worry about is that. Who really cares about a numbers shootout. Your Dyno guy should be able to smooth that out a bit.
You must be hanging out with Jody a bit too much. The bottom line is in MPH, not RPM's. Hope you guys make it to the CCS event in NM in two weeks.

I'll agree about the high #'s but a dyno is still just a gauge. Use it to see what works and what doesn't. Smooth power delivery is important. Setting the mapping up for the highest #'s isn't necessarily the best thing for racing. Smooth on/off throttle transitions in corners is very important. Normally acheived by adding alot of fuel at lower throttle positions.
 

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To me HP numbers don't mean shit... What is really important is the A/F ratio, how smooth the HP curve is and time to max HP. You have a pretty nasty dip at about 5800-6300, also at 8500. The only thing I would worry about is that. Who really cares about a numbers shootout. Your Dyno guy should be able to smooth that out a bit.
You must be hanging out with Jody a bit too much. The bottom line is in MPH, not RPM's. Hope you guys make it to the CCS event in NM in two weeks.

I'll agree about the high #'s but a dyno is still just a gauge. Use it to see what works and what doesn't. Smooth power delivery is important. Setting the mapping up for the highest #'s isn't necessarily the best thing for racing. Smooth on/off throttle transitions in corners is very important. Normally acheived by adding alot of fuel at lower throttle positions.
HEHE yeah too true bro. I finally caught the MPH thing
. Usually it's RPM. I like Walters print out's. I probably won't make it due to cash. Got a new(used) trans. for the bike and that set me back.
 

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Well HP means shit to me. If you have perfect a/f ratio on a 99 gsxr600 it still isn't going to make the peak hp of a 04 gsxr600 with a/f a bit off.

Peak hp is easy to get tuned, its the midrange that is a bit of work. Getting those dips to smooth out. Playing with fuel/air and throttle position to get it just right.

The only true way to judge your bike....and this has been said a million times is you have to Dyno YOUR bike pre and post mod. You can't rely on other dyno's other bikes or even magazines because everyone can read a bit different.

The dyno i go to puts my 750's both at 117 and 118 bone stock, and i know of other places that will say my 750's will make 125hp bone stock. That may be true......but regarless of the number its the gain and smoothness of that hp curve you want.
 

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Yea but you can have all the corner speed in the world and even a pesky squid on a powerfull bike can out exit ya or blast you on a straight and make it a chore to get past them.

Trust me i raced a 94hp 2000 model SRAD GSXR600 against modern 600's and outbraked and was equal if not better on many corners and still had my hands full at every track in the north central. R6's with minor work in non stock classes would just roll past me like i was stuck in 4th gear.
 

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I'm gonna disagree slightly on simply having a more powerful bike. Reasoning is this. I've come out of corners on my bone stock 04 750, squared to corner off and passed my buddy on his GSXR1000 exiting the corner and was no where near being caught by the end of the straight.

Corner speed and exits are critical most of the time. If your bike is choppy in the corners because the mapping isn't set up for track use, you're gonna have a really hard time keeping up because you lost the battle before it truely got started.

I've also run down built 1000's with my 01 750 on a straight because of the drive coming out of corners.

Hell, I even ran one guy down while I was riding a buddy's 91 GSXR750 (100hp maybe?). The guy I ran down was on an 02 GSXR1000 (150ish?). Sure, I couldn't run with him in the straights but I didn't get killed like I should have. And the 91 weighs about 475lbs full of fuel.

Basically, map the bike for it's intended use. You map a drag bike differently than a road race bike. Smooth is generally fast on the track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good comments guys, its always a good conversation, these DYNO figure posts. I agree that my dips need work but on the track all I can say is WOW.... the rides rides just sooooo well and smooth with a real nice top end rush. It would like to see a comparasion with my bike on another dyno. I take my R1 to the same tuner and it doesnt read "high" numbers at all.
 
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