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Getting tired of newer bikes kicking my stock ass.(91 1100 M). Been told that with a bit of work my bike can still run with the latest/greatest?????. Where do I start to get most bang for my buck. Bigger bore?How big(only use bike for playing)? What type pstons?.Carbs? I have endless shit with the stock ones(40mm cv's)as they eat slides and needles at an alarming rate. Maybe turbo??. Please guys who have done some work on their bikes-give this squid some advice. preferably something that can be done in easY stages (paint by numbers)
 

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by TheHun:
Getting tired of newer bikes kicking my stock ass.(91 1100 M). Been told that with a bit of work my bike can still run with the latest/greatest?????. Where do I start to get most bang for my buck. Bigger bore?How big(only use bike for playing)? What type pstons?.Carbs? I have endless shit with the stock ones(40mm cv's)as they eat slides and needles at an alarming rate. Maybe turbo??. Please guys who have done some work on their bikes-give this squid some advice. preferably something that can be done in easY stages (paint by numbers)<hr></blockquote>

The safest,cheapest (relatively) way to upgrade your power is to find what bore increase of piston can be installed in your engine without having to install new liners. For my 1074 water pumper, that figure is 1146cc. I would expect your 1127 would be somewhat highter. With the head off, spec the valves/springs etc. If all looks decent, get the valves ground. That and a couple of teeth added to the rear sprocket will make one helluva diff. Enough so that stock suspension will really start to get a workout.

Of course you can just keep on going from there, but that's about the cheapest waypoint.
 

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I belive it is 1186-1207 and the stock liners are okay, but the hell with that go nuts, like me
plans for a 1340cc APE!! block and motor kit with endless nonsense etc...
-Karl
 

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You can easily go for 1186 ot 1217 no problem. Then get the head gas-flowed. get Dyna coils and taylor leads and , of course, a free breathing race exhaust system ...............then 150bhp at the wheel that should be enough.


 

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It all depends on the money you want to spend.
I built a 91 1201cc motor 89 rocker head 1mm os valves stage 2 yosh cams good head work, 41mm keihns, murray exaust, dyna 2000 ignition and coils and made 168 rwhp.
Than wanted more power so I used a mtc block w/ custom hand made 1340 brock davidson pistons. bike made 198rwhp
still wanted more power so I bolted on a nx nitros system w/ a 120hp shot
bike was very fast .
Went to the track w/ a 6" over arm and ran a 9.08 @ 167mph on the first day.
sold the bike for good money and bought a gsxr 1000!
 

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You can get to 150+ rwhp with a 1207 - 1216 without pushing the CR up too far... beyond that, where do you want to end up?

You can probably keep a daily-driver 1340 - 1370 from burning up as long as you run a big oil cooler and keep moving... but how long are starter motors going to hold up?

If you really want a streetable thunderbolt that will walk with the modern birds of prey there's only one way to go on a street bike- turbocharging.

Ed

.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanx guys- all very useful. I like the turbo idea the most. I had a turbo'd renault years ago, and I really liked that kick in the pants feeling. Now for the question, where do I go from here. Manufacturer, boost etc , do I keep stock compression, single carb or not( i still want to ride on the street). If you come to think about it, the SRAD system is basically a static turbocharger anyway.
 

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ram air doesn't even really begin to work until you hit higher speeds, and even at top speed, the gains are miniscule compared to a turbocharger or supercharger.

suggest you contact seb at nlr systems, they specialize in turbos...he can fill you in on details.
 

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You can get a blow through turbo system, some 9:1 pistons, a good adjustable ingnition, and an intercooler or water alcohol setup, and make GOOD horspower on pump gas.
 

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Dunno how much money you are planning on but turbos will cost serious dollars.

Cheap horses would be getting a set of big flatslides (39-41mm) with filter pods and ripping the heads off and getting them ported by someone who knows suzukis. Then get a set of webb cams and slotted cam sprockets. On assembly get them dialled in. You can stick with standard 1127, unless you have the cash to go straight out and get the 1340.

You cant beat an naturally aspirated bike for rideability. Turbo bike would be fun though, blasting the crap out of R1s down a bit of straight road.

Dale
 
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