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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ah i forget what my friend said was best to move my forks too. Anyone have their preferences? I think they are aroun 5-8mm up now, and he said to push them up further to around 10mm for a great turn in.
 

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I'd do it in 5mm increments. 5mm - test ride - then 5 more. If it starts to feel unstable, back off 5
 

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...just make sure the fender doesn't hit the radiator or fairing with the forks compressed, also with the front turned
 

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i have a few questions.

whick bike if its the 1K it needs to be set up different than a 600 or 750, you have to balance out wheel spin.

an 00 - 04 600 750 5 to 8 mill showing of fork, rear shock eye to eye length 338 to 342 mm. on a 1K same in the front but only about 334 in the rear

04 - 05 gix 600 750 fork flush and around 338 mm in the rear.

lowering the front and raising the rear will make the bike turn faster but unstabel at speed and tend to spin the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
05 750

isn't stock the forks up about 8mm - i wasn't sure

and i guess all of u would flip if I said, another friend had his moved to 1 1/16 of an inch showing above the triple? cause thats what he just told me. He's on an r6
 

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they are all different bro. i do notice all my commie R6 riding frieds have alot of fork showing.

but dont just do something to your bike because your friend does, even if hes fast it does not make it right or safe.

to get a bike to handle better you need to address the front and rear
 

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My 04 600 forks are flush. This is per Mike Thermosman.

Your friends R6 is showing a lot of fork because they come stock with the clipons above the tripple. When you move them below the tripple on race bikes it looks like you've moved the forks up a lot, but you haven't. The best setup (I'm told) on the 03/04/05 R6's is to have the forks flush as well (if you had the handlebars above the tripple still).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ahh ok I didn't realize the placement on the clip ons. No, I'm not going to do things just because someone else does. its my initial good buddy whose racing a stock 02 600 that told me to set them at 10mm. Thats where they are at right now. its not a whole lot, but we'll see. It might have been a mistake to do it, right before the track day, but Its only 4 screws, I can fix it at lunch if needs be.
 

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what's the rear set up like? Like Wiz said - you have to address both ends of the bike.

I personally wouldn't worry very much about how the bike 'turns in'... if it's not quick enough for you, just put more input into the bars
What I would worry about is how well the bike holds a line coming out of the turn, and how your chassis setup affects traction.

Raising the rear, as opposed to lowering the front, has a different affect on handling. They're not equivalent. Obviously, lowering the front will decrease ground clearance while raising the rear will increase it. Raising the rear will also reduce the tendency of the bike to squat on acceleration, while dropping the front will generally increase it.

If you're having trouble exiting the turns because the bike's running wide (this is assuming that spring rate and damping are set up OK), try raising the rear end first. Raise it to the point where wheel spin becomes a problem, and back it off a bit from there. Then - if you're still having troubles holding a line - experiment with dropping the front a little. Keep in mind that you may need to go back & forth a couple times between front & rear ride height adjustments to get the bike where it holds the line you want, feels stable, and balances out rear end spin or squat.

Also... preload (sag) on both ends affects ride height. So you can experiment within a reasonable range of sag settings to net similiar (though probably not as dramatic) affects. If I were you, I'd play with preload to experiment with at the track (it's alot easier than tearing your whole front end apart in between sessions), and then maybe go back and make changes to your chassis setup based on what you found (remembering to set your sag back to where it was before)

BTW - any word of you coming out to Tuscon or not Gimp??
 

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My 04 600 forks are flush. This is per Mike Thermosman.
).
same with our team 04 600 per T-man
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thx lean angle - i haven't messed with rear at all, probably because its different tools I don't think i have, nor do how I know how much adjustment to give it. I seriously didn't think 2mm would do to much. I asked a few instructors when i got there after the first session, they just said 10mm really isn't anything to worry about. But i'm not running lap record times either. As far as Tuscon, I won't know till this August - but.... its only a slight chance so don't hold your breath. I'll definitly let you know - or u write me to remind me


Does raising your forks shorten our wheel base a tad, or am I just thinking wrongly?

Although - track day went well. I'm running street tires still Michelien PP's.
I actually dropped 10sec off my times which really suprised me. I didn't expect it. I don't neccessarly contribute it to the forks either. Only one VERY close highside that I was able to save as I got back on the throttle and she shook out. Entry speeds/braking/rolling back on the throttle/lean angles were great today. Over all - I was SMOOTHER. And thats what I contribute it too.

Running the race group at the prior track day definity opened my eyes to passing - and well
this time I didn't wait all day till the only straight to pass. Esp guys on stupid busa's wanting to drag race to the corner then sit in the corner and crawl.


Anyhow - i'm going to keep addressing this fork issue and I completly appreciate your guys inputs. I'll see what I do about it, esp since some of you have actually ran them flush with the triple tree!!

Hit Texas World Speeday its a blast - top speeds OVER 160mph
 

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hammer. i had my 02 set up with 5mm of fork showing above the triples not including the cap, and rear shock was at 338 eye to eye.. that thing handled like a dream for me. my forks were extended as well on that bike.. some people like the bikes to handle differently. id rather have to muscle a bike into a turn and have it give me more feel while leaned over, than have it turn in easy but feel vague. just my $.02.

my 03 1k is set up very different though.. forks are extended and flush with the top of triples, and rear shock is currently at 332 with the 190/60 rear tire on it and it feels pretty good.. it was at 337 with the 180 and it felt pretty good, but not perfect..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Maybe this will make u all flip again - but I found where I had also seen it.

Sportrider suggested settings indicate showing 10mm above triple for the forks - and about 9mm thread showing on the rear preload.


Any comments? Maybe I should set my rear to 9mm - i don't even know what its at right now.
 

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bro pull the shock off measue it eye to eye and add what ever shims you need for 336 to 338
 

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hammer. i had my 02 set up with 5mm of fork showing above the triples not including the cap, and rear shock was at 338 eye to eye.. that thing handled like a dream for me. my forks were extended as well on that bike.. some people like the bikes to handle differently. id rather have to muscle a bike into a turn and have it give me more feel while leaned over, than have it turn in easy but feel vague. just my $.02.

my 03 1k is set up very different though.. forks are extended and flush with the top of triples, and rear shock is currently at 332 with the 190/60 rear tire on it and it feels pretty good.. it was at 337 with the 180 and it felt pretty good, but not perfect..
Thanks for the info...
I shoulda said my forks are 8mm, not counting the cap..the shock "Looks" like it's shimed to the max, as the nut that goes on the clevis, ahs No threads showing above the nut...looks like someone machined a aluminum spacer for iit...

Then again..maybe it's the Dunlops...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Looks like i had fun




haha notice how i use my 3 outside fingers for braking as opposed to my first 2. My clutch side is the my index and middle finger. Weird how u get used to things.

OH did I say this corner is annoying yet?? IT IS - long right hander into a quick flip left. I'm a lefty by choice
 

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Wizard and NoBull are correct. I jacked the eye-to-eye to 338 and lowered the front 4mm from stock and couldn't ride it. Front kept wanting to tuck. Started raising the front, lowering the forks, and I've ended up flush and it's nearly perfect for me.

Tires can play a part due to different diameters from brand to brand but tire profile is also gonna make the bike handle different as you lean the bike into a corner. You just need a good starting point, which you have, then adjust accordingly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
thx man!!

after riding her, i think i want to go the opposite way. She actually seemed really unstable transitioning from one direction to the other. I seem to get a lot easier head shakes. Now i'm just debating if i want to go straight to flush or just a little above and see how it is.

I'm on pilot powers, and have been for the past 5500 miles. (which is all the bike has) I love them and think they are a little steeper profile as to a dunlop or pirelli or others for that matter.
 
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