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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, Ive searched and here is my story, got this bike in the winter from a fellow that didn't rode it much in a few years, bike is in brand new condition and has 6500 kilometers.



Got home heat everything up and a chain rattle came up, thought oil change will fix it in springtime...
Now, did oil change yesterday and after first startup and fully warmed up engine "tick" came back!( Was stressed overnight and today decided to record the video but,during shooting a video and after fully warming up the noise was less than yesterday. I still have video and combined like 4 episodes and 2 different cameras that ive used and video came to like 7 minutes long. Ill upload it to youtube if it will be needed later. Also i would like to mention that ive owned a 2007 GsxR 750 for few years and 20k kms on it and it never had chain tick issues.

IT is for sure not a clutch related issue (clutch lever do not alter sound) and it only can be heard at idle and up to a 2k rpm. Iam looking into two directions to fix this Rattle / Tick / Chain Slap:
#1 Install new CCT (12830-47H00) or
#2 To upgrade spring inside of it to a heavier spring to help aid tension at idle when the oil pressure at its lowest.
Did a research all day today and find only one guy thinking to do the same (upgrading spring) but lost that thread now)

Also I have a question to everybody, what are those three different types of screw on the head of CCT for? Would they be there to possibly bleed the system from air or dirty oil that never circulates in there? (Picture is courtesy of eBay)

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Wow, HI to another Albertian!))) Forget to mention bike have like 6500 kms (Valves never been checked, yesterday I was in there and it has an original 2009 air filter in it)))
Im trying to avoid using MANUAL CCT, not that im incompetent to do service on them or install one but I think OEM hydraulic one have potential....

Anyway, yesterday ive bleed #1 and #3, not sure if it helped or any air/dirt was trapped in there, but I did it this way:



#3 Is the easiest, you have to take airbox out and then take the plug out completely, start and run for like 10 seconds for clean oil to come out, then put the plug in there for like one turn and run the engine while watching if fluid coming out from threads is clean and while the engine is still running tight the plug down real good but do not overtighten, here I used torque bit and 1/4" wrench to loosen and tighten.




Here is how both plugs looks like



Of course there was some kind of lock tight on the plug which I cleaned when it was out so, to prevent it from going out I used center punch 8mil deep socket and extension and did couple of notches in the body of CCT for plug to stay tight!







Then did the same thing with #1 from my previous post^, you have to take left fairing out and go beside the starter to make it directly to that #1 plug. Same precision as #3.

Now that phillips screw (#2) is impossible to reach, I didn't want to take throttle bodies out for bleeding it so i left it untouched!
 
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