Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello:

I purchased a 07 gsxr. It ran I took it to the dealer for the brake recall. When I got the bike back I could not get the bike to start. Bike turn over, has spark, and fuel pump seems to be working. The kickstand sensor dose not work. Its my understand the kickstand sensor on affects once the bike is in gear. The bike did fall over I was having this problem before it fall. I am at lose what I should check next. could the ECU be bad?
Thanks.


Bike has
New battery
Replaced CKP sensor showing .4 to .5 volts.
Pulled a spark pulg I am see some spark. checked power to the coils.
Discountet the fuel line turned the bike on gas came out. Than I hit the starter and more fuel came out. check power to the injectors
did a comperssion test last month was around 110ish (bike was running before)
 

·
You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
Joined
·
7,713 Posts
If it cranks, the ignition interlock isn't the problem. You posted elsewhere that you didn't have spark. What changed? You say that the fuel pump is working. Does it prime when you turn the ignition & kill switch on? Check the voltage at the O/W lead at the dealer mode connector and the R lead at the nearby Suzuki Access Port connector. Should be 12 V and 5 V. Has the tip-over switch been moved or otherwise fiddled with? Have you fiddled with the ignition switch?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I replaced the CRANK POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL GENERATOR. Tested it and have .4 to .5 volts. I pulled a plug on the bike and ground it on the frame and cranked the motor I saw spark.

I disconnected the fuel line. turned the bike on the fuel pump primer and some gas went into the cup. I than cranked the motor and more gas came out.

the tip over switch is in the stock place. I am going to replace the kickstand sensor as that failed.

I do not think the Injectors are spaying gas into the motor. I cranked the motor and looked into the throttle bodies I am not seeing or smelling any gas.

The ignition switch is stock. I will check the dealer mode connector. I will look to see if I can find the Suzuki Access Port connector.

Is there a way to test the ECU? even if I had to take it somewhere.
Thanks for your help
 

·
Captain Obvious ... because obviously it’s obvious
Joined
·
3,860 Posts
I replaced the CRANK POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL GENERATOR. Tested it and have .4 to .5 volts. I pulled a plug on the bike and ground it on the frame and cranked the motor I saw spark.

I disconnected the fuel line. turned the bike on the fuel pump primer and some gas went into the cup. I than cranked the motor and more gas came out.

the tip over switch is in the stock place. I am going to replace the kickstand sensor as that failed.

I do not think the Injectors are spaying gas into the motor. I cranked the motor and looked into the throttle bodies I am not seeing or smelling any gas.

The ignition switch is stock. I will check the dealer mode connector. I will look to see if I can find the Suzuki Access Port connector.

Is there a way to test the ECU? even if I had to take it somewhere.
Thanks for your help
If your pump is priming when you turn on the bike, it's probably not the ECU. Only way to really test the ECU is to take a known-working ECU and put it on your bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Yeah I check and I am seeing 12 V and 5 V.

I am running out of things to check.Once I installed the new kickstand sensor. I will check the wires again.

The fuel injectors have 12 volts I think the ECU closes the circuit. I still think it might be the ecu.
 

·
Hand-Eye Coordinator
Joined
·
6,529 Posts
Yeah I check and I am seeing 12 V and 5 V.

I am running out of things to check.Once I installed the new kickstand sensor. I will check the wires again.

The fuel injectors have 12 volts I think the ECU closes the circuit. I still think it might be the ecu.
Only 12 Volts? You shouldn't read that with a good battery.
 

·
You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
Joined
·
7,713 Posts
Put 1-2 cc of gas into each throttle body and try to start it. If it runs briefly, the problem is with the injectors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
So i finally started to work on it again. I tested each spark plug to make sure it had spark. Did another compression test around 110 across each Cyclder. I pour some gas done each thottle body and turned it over still nothing.

I have ran out of ideas I still think the ECU is bad. It has spark some compression and pour gas into the motor should be enough to start it. anyone have any idea?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Does it have a power commander and are you getting and FI codes. That would be the next place to check, also your battery should be reading anywhere from 12.5 - 13.2 volts. anything above and you have a R/R problem, anything below you probably have a bad battery. Keep me posted, i had the same problem on my k6 600 and it was my power commander. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
So i finally started to work on it again. I tested each spark plug to make sure it had spark. Did another compression test around 110 across each Cyclder. I pour some gas done each thottle body and turned it over still nothing.

I have ran out of ideas I still think the ECU is bad. It has spark some compression and pour gas into the motor should be enough to start it. anyone have any idea?
If you see "CHEC" before you hit the killswitch to "run" then you have a bad ECU. If you are at least getting the FI light, that means your ECU is communicating with your dash. Your "Dealer mode" plug in should be right under your fuse box, beside your battery. You can jumpo the connection with a paper clip, you should definatly check this next.
 

·
I know things... A lot of things.
Joined
·
3,148 Posts
Before the killswitch is set to "RUN" the ECU is unpowered and therefore "CHEC" is expected and normal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Does it have a power commander and are you getting and FI codes. That would be the next place to check, also your battery should be reading anywhere from 12.5 - 13.2 volts. anything above and you have a R/R problem, anything below you probably have a bad battery. Keep me posted, i had the same problem on my k6 600 and it was my power commander. Good luck!
I'd check this, for sure. If you have low voltage on a battery, it may crank, but the injectors may not fire.
 

·
You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
Joined
·
7,713 Posts
Check that your Suzuki Access Port connector looks like the one in the middle of this post (he refers to it as the IDK Yosh plug). If so, it's available from Kawasaki as part 26011-1773. However you shouldn't need it if all you're doing is checking the voltage on the R lead. Ditto the O/W lead on the dealer mode connector. But do buy a dealer mode switch.

The red LED FI light on the cluster is a general fault indicator. It comes on when the bike isn't running because the oil pressure is low. In general, starting with ignition and kill switches off, turn the ignition on and you should see the FI light and CHEC on the cluster. Then turn the kill switch on. The FI light should stay on but CHEC should be replaced by the temperature display and you should hear the fuel pump prime. That's all evidence that the ECM is working. If the ECM detects a fault, either the temperature display will alternate with "FI" or, for severe faults, "FI" will appear continuously.

You could also check for spark by pulling a plug and seeing if there's a spark while cranking. But don't use the magnesium valve cover as a ground. Either use one of the cover's attaching bolts or run a lead from the crankcase or battery negative terminal to the plug.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top