Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com banner

41 - 60 of 71 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Thank you guys. The kudos and encouragement goes a long way with me. I'm a self taught machinist, welder, well....about everything I know :lol Pulling off a project of this magnitude has me glowing.

There still a lot of reinforcements to do, but the motor sits in the frame. Now time to reassemble the bike to a rolling chassis and install the motor. From there I can check swingarm clearance, engine rake angle, and balance. Also my opportunity to measure my clearances for headers, radiator, fan, and oil cooler. She lives.....
[URL=http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/Robert_Wyper/media/My%202007%20gsxr%201000%20to%20Hayabusa%20engine%20swap%20project/IMAG0636_BURST002_zpshuamtmkb.jpg.html][/URL]
[URL=http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/Robert_Wyper/media/My%202007%20gsxr%201000%20to%20Hayabusa%20engine%20swap%20project/IMAG0638_BURST002_zpsvr8bz0bb.jpg.html][/URL]
[URL=http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/Robert_Wyper/media/My%202007%20gsxr%201000%20to%20Hayabusa%20engine%20swap%20project/IMAG0639_BURST002_zpsydnntkha.jpg.html][/URL]
In this one, you can see the clearance cut I made on the inside of the frame to fit the head. We'll be coming back to that.
[URL=http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/Robert_Wyper/media/My%202007%20gsxr%201000%20to%20Hayabusa%20engine%20swap%20project/IMAG0647_BURST002_zps1kdapwym.jpg.html][/URL]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
Looks like I got lucky with the fit. Plenty of ground clearance, and just the right rake in the motor to keep the oil flowing. I payed a lot of attention to center the weight of the motor. I'm not building this as a straight liner, I like to ride the twisties:punk

I'm going to have just enough room to use the 1k radiator after making a bottom bracket to the hayabusa case. Headers and exhaust will be an issue, as I had already figured. Hayabusa headers are too bulky and would leave me no room for the radiator. The rest of the exhaust is built around a hayabusa frame. It's A LOT wider, I'd be able to use the exhaust as a kickstand:lol I'm wanting to use the original plastics and make the bike look and feel as close to a factory 1k as I can. I needed low profile headers.....that dont exist. That only left me one option.....make my own. Making an exhaust system was another first for me. I do design and manufacture firearms suppressors, ( legally of course ), and the share similar design principles so here goes nothin'.

I don't have access to a high enough quality pipe bender that will do the job without restricting air flow. I decided to segment weld a one piece full exhaust system. I used progressive sized stainless dom tubing. I used a riveting head in a hydraulic press that I use for ak47 receivers to form the 2 to 1 couplers at the mid pipe. I chopped up an oem header as a organ donor. I cut the elbows from the cylinder connection and angle cut segments to make the down pipes and mid pipe.

To make sure my welds were seamless on the interior and won't obstruct air flow, I used a trick I use on suppressor bodies. I cut argon flow to the tig torch and run an argon line into the tubing. It creates a sterile chamber giving you maximum weld penetration and controlling the argon flow acts as a backer leaving a seamless interior finish. Here it is nearly finished. I'll be adding horizontal flow pipes in the down pipes to balance exhaust pressure between the cylinders, and adding the exhaust tip.
[URL=http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/Robert_Wyper/media/My%202007%20gsxr%201000%20to%20Hayabusa%20engine%20swap%20project/IMAG0656_BURST002_zpsafrgefjq.jpg.html][/URL]

Still some forming and welding to do.
[URL=http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/Robert_Wyper/media/My%202007%20gsxr%201000%20to%20Hayabusa%20engine%20swap%20project/IMAG0659_BURST002_zpsqa3ghpg2.jpg.html][/URL]
[URL=http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/Robert_Wyper/media/My%202007%20gsxr%201000%20to%20Hayabusa%20engine%20swap%20project/IMAG0660_BURST002_zpshmrwdyqs.jpg.html][/URL]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
That is a nice looking header. You should have one nasty machine when you are done. Do you have a website for your firearm related stuff. I'd like a suppressor for my .308, 300Blackout and 5.56 but have been avoiding the paperwork side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
That is a nice looking header. You should have one nasty machine when you are done. Do you have a website for your firearm related stuff. I'd like a suppressor for my .308, 300Blackout and 5.56 but have been avoiding the paperwork side.
Thanks, it's coming together. My website sucks, it's way under managed. I HIGHLY advise getting an nfa trust before you buy a can. I have a lawyer in Austin that I send most of my customers to. He's on point and fast. We do the rest of the paperwork in house. It's not to bad of a process and fairly quick at the moment, (stamps are coming in at around the 90 day mark lately).

My website sucks:lol. We haven't had time to devote to it. Here's my Facebook page, it's got better content and all of my contact info.
https://m.facebook.com/BrosInArmsWAR?ref=bookmark

**** Not intending to advertise. Mods feel free to pull this post if I'm out of line ****
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
Hey all, I'm back. It's been a busy month but I've made a ton of progress on the bike. Last update, I had the motor mounted in the rolling chassis. I still had a lot of welding and reinforcing to do behind the mounting plates. I took advantage of having it together to fab and fit the headers. I got the header and mid pipes done and decided to finish the frame before the rest of the exhaust. I pulled the motor and stripped it all back down.

The clearance cuts in the frame for the head and valve cover left wide open gaps behind the new mounting plates
[/URL][/IMG]

I decided on using 2 filler sections. The first filler plate is an L shape to press fit and weld in above the valve cover. To follow the frame extrusion lines dimensions, I hat to sand and file it to fit by hand.
[/URL][/IMG]

Here it is, fitted and welded in along 1 seam
[/URL][/IMG]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
Now for the 2nd filler. It's a strangely contoured, 3 dimensionally shaped section.
[/URL][/IMG]
I used 1.25 x 4 aluminum barstock. I butted it up to the gap and scribed the contours. From the scribe lines I subtracted for the frame thickness so it would be a (light) press fit in 0.750" into the frame. I started by step milling it
[/URL][/IMG]
[/URL][/IMG]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
Once I got it step milled close I hand finished it on an oscillating spindle sander
[/URL][/IMG]
[/URL][/IMG]

From there I machined the two sections needed, matching the frame angle
[/URL][/IMG]
[/URL][/IMG]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
Here's detail shots of one side welded in.
[/URL][/IMG]
[/URL][/IMG]

A good pic to show the work that's gone into this thing. All of the raw aluminum, "in the white" areas I've machined and welded.
[/URL][/IMG]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
After getting both sides welded in, I added one more fortification. I drilled and pressed in a 0.500" aluminum spud in a location to go through both walls of the frame, the motor mount plate, and the L shape filler plate.
[/URL][/IMG]

I trimmed it to protrude 0.035" on each side of the frame, and welded both ends into the frame. Here's a picture of it trimmed to scale. I was slacking on my pics here and missed several steps.
[/URL][/IMG]
[/URL][/IMG]

I'll take some better "after" pics of the weld up. I sent the frame, subframe, swingarm, stator covor, and clutch covers off to powdercoating. They're due back tomorrow :punk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
I always enjoy seeing the updates to this, that will truly be a monster on the street.
Thanks David, I definitely appreciate the feedback. It's most definitely growing into a monster:punk

I'd like to take a minute to "preface" a bit. From here on my posts are going to scream "big money build". By all rights, it should be an expensive project but it's not. I've had my share of blessings, not financially, but with good friends. George from Austin Precision Power (my neighbor and friend) sourced me the bike minus motor for $2500. I sold the ridiculous extended 240 kit and heavy rc wheels, and replaced with oem parts. That brought me down to $1500 invested. He's sourced all of my parts through trades and/or at "dealer cost". Most importantly he's taking his valuable time to build this motor for me, and bring this beast to life. I've got another good friend that has a fleet maintenance business that is doing my powdercoating and paint. This project would be dead in the water without them. At the end of the day, I'll be well under $8,000 on the finished bike.

All that being said, my goodies are back from powdercoating. I went with gun metal grey, polished and clear coated. I'll be going all black on the fairings.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback. I've put a stupid amount of work into this thing, and its been a roller-coaster. I had a few occasions where I thought I'd have to scrap the frame. From the moment I knew I pulled it off, I decided that it was worthy of the sickest engine build I can pull off. :punk I meant to post this sooner to my last post, but I ran out of time. I had some short notice lung surgery that put me down for a while. ****If you're a 2003 + Iraq vet and have any respiratory problems at all, get checked out.

Nice job!!!!

How did you prep the frame and do you know what powder coat was used?
The frame was bead blasted. I'm not sure on the powder coating but I can find out. I didn't have any transaction with the powder coating place. I've got a friend that took it to his buddy, who owns a high end refinishing shop in Austin. Good friends made this build possible.

All this took place before my last post. I'm trying to get back on my feet and back to the build. I'm waiting on parts anyway:lol Time to get stupid with the motor:punk Here's where I'm at so far, parts and work list.

-CP 84 mm pistons
-+3 mm bored and coated cylinder, done by Millennium Technologies
-gen 2 rotating assembly / crank, 2 mm stroke. Balanced and polished journals.
-Web Cam cams, #45 grind. Adjustable cam sprockets. Dual intake cams.
-Carpenter Racing head
-Ferrera valves, Carpenter springs
-Valve job
-Surface milling the block
-Clutch weld up modification
-Catalyst racing composites custom airbox (really excited about this). I'm sending them a kydex mold to copy since it's obviously not factory specs on the dimensions. http://catalystracingcomposites.com/i-18849456-99-07-hayabusa-air-box.html
-Flow output matched fuel injectors
-Dynojet Quick Shifter with linear activation switch (excited about this too:punk)
-PC V mapped and tuned for 96 octane and e85 race fuel. You know, just in case I need to squeeze a few more ponies
I'm sure I'm missing some things, I've been pretty medicated lately:lol
Here's the clutch weld up mod I did. My buddy / engine builder George has a jig I used to perfectly center it for welding.
[/URL][/IMG]
The crankshaft being polished
[/URL][/IMG]
Carpenter head
[/URL][/IMG]
The cylinder
[/URL][/IMG]

The cams are due in any day now. I'll try to get another update together soon.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24,541 Posts
Damn,sorry to hear about your surgery;and thank you for serving our country! Yes,yes,yes,enjoy those med's while they last :lol

So basically you have a 1441cc with a Carpenter head,thats gonna make some nice power :thumbup. My Gen2 with a Carpenter 1441 puts down 230+ rwhp/130+ft/lbs on any dyno and is IMO,the perfect street bike. Any particular reason you went with the Web's instead of the Carpenter cams? Maybe the Bob cams were too big? Im pretty sure those Web's are .415/.395 vs .425/.415 for the Bob cams.
You will have a lot of fun on this beast:cheers
 
41 - 60 of 71 Posts
Top