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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all. I've had this project kind of thrown into my lap and I figured some of you may enjoy it. This has turned out to be a very challenging project. First off, I'm not a bike builder by any means. I'm a gunsmith and own a gun store here in Texas. I have a small machine shop with a nice tig welder. I'm doing all of the fabrication and machining with manual machinery. I got a too good to pass up deal on a 2007 gsxr 1000 with a roaring toyz 8" extended under braced 240 swingarm and rc wheels. The bike came minus motor. My friend and business neighbor George professionally builds 1000cc and hayabusa engines for formula 1000 and cart series race cars. He had a low mileage 2006 Hayabusa engine that he only had $700 in. As fast as that the project was born.
The bike

The hayabusa engine

My goal is a monster that plays like a litter bike in the twisties. The 240 kit has been replaced with an oem swingarm and wheels.....for now. George is going to be doing my engine build for cost of parts. He has an in house dyno. I'm going 4mm over on my pistons. The cylinder head is being sent out to be bored and dlc coated. The same with the head for porting. We are doing the weld up clutch mod, dual intake cams, valve job, and milling the block to turn the torque up. He's also doing all the fuel management / tuning and dyno work. Now all I have to do is make it fit and stay together.....

I had it pulled apart pretty quickly down to the main frame to take measurements

It was quickly obvious that it was going to be a challenge. The head of the hayabusa engine is 1.750 in wider than the inside width of the 07' 1k frame. The key to this build will be getting*the engine mounted so that the oil pan is as near to level as possible. The clearance for the valve cover will have to come nearly to the top of the chassis. None of the motor mounts come near close to lining up. Time to get the frame in the mill and machine out clearances.
 

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Chubby Chaser
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good luck with the build
 

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^+1
No such thing as too many pic's ....just sayn ..

Look up Ragekillers Srad busa thread if you havn't already seen it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
For an idea of what I'm trying to pull off, here's the 1000 engine on the bottom and hayabusa up top.


The first thing I did was square up and true the bottom motor mounts. I will be making new motor mounts to weld on the tabs.


I then had to machine a clearance for the rear top motor mounting point, (that runs through the center of the frame)

Before-1


Before-2


After


Obviously I had to reinforce the frame. I machined an L shape .250" thick bracket mated to the frame, welded it in, then machined out the motor mount hub.


More coming tonight. Hope you guys enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I also had to machine out a clearance to clear the top of the clutch. I completely cut off the front motor mounts, and cut 90° sections out of the inside wall of the frame to clear the hayabusa head and valve cover. That allowed me to drop the frame over the engine.


I lined up the top rear motor mount to use as the axis of the engine fit. That gave me the dimensions to make the rear bottom mounts that I'll be welding to the tabs I squared off earlier. The new motor mounts are positioned lower and further forward of the factory motor mounts.




Here you can see them welded on and bead blasted.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
With the Busa engine mounted to the new rear bottom mounts, it aligns with the rear top motor mount and levels the oil pan. With the top rear motor mounts being inset into the center of the frame, I wanted to fortify that. I turned 6061 aluminum tapered frame inserts to create solid motor mounting points.



Here they are inserted into the frame. Notice the cuts on the bottom of the frame above the clutch. I'll be addressing those shortly.


Top and bottom mounts with the frame insert in. It was important to line up the sprocket to clear the frame and swingarm pivot mount.


here's the frame inserts welded in.



Welded on the inside and out. Notice all the material I had to remove from the bottom side of the frame to get around the clutch that I mentioned earlier. I'll be covering that on my next post.
 

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Like the username gunplumber. George, I know who you are talking about. He helped me out with some impossible to get GSX parts a little while back.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Like the username gunplumber. George, I know who you are talking about. He helped me out with some impossible to get GSX parts a little while back.
Thanks. Yeah George is a good guy and an amazing engine builder. I'm lucky to have him on this project doing my engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
^+1
No such thing as too many pic's ....just sayn ..

Look up Ragekillers Srad busa thread if you havn't already seen it.
Thanks guys. I've got plenty of pics, just have to find time to post. I'm well beyond in the build than where I've posted to:punk
 

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Nice project. If this is going to be anywhere near a daily rider,scrap the 1430cc pistons and stick to the proven 1397cc combo. 4mil on a Gen1 block doesnt leave much meat between the bores
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Nice project. If this is going to be anywhere near a daily rider,scrap the 1430cc pistons and stick to the proven 1397cc combo. 4mil on a Gen1 block doesnt leave much meat between the bores
Yessir' I want dependability. I was planning on running cp 84mm pistons, 1397cc at a 13.5:1 CR. I may have my data wrong as well. I'll run it passed my engine builder again.
 

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Yessir' I want dependability. I was planning on running cp 84mm pistons, 1397cc at a 13.5:1 CR. I may have my data wrong as well. I'll run it passed my engine builder again.
Yes you want 84mm (+3mm) pistons not +4mm like you originally posted,which would be 1430cc
 

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Yessir', thank you. My builder was tracking, I misspoke. She will be a daily rider :punk
I figured as much lol

My 1397 made 220rwhp with a Carpenter head&cams,was an awesome daily rider. Yours should be a fun bike,especially with 30ft/lbs more torque than a stock 1000.:cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I figured as much lol

My 1397 made 220rwhp with a Carpenter head&cams,was an awesome daily rider. Yours should be a fun bike,especially with 30ft/lbs more torque than a stock 1000.:cheers
Nice. I'm thinking it's going to be a fun ride. I'm doing everything I can to shave weight and keep that litter bike handling and feel.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
We left off with that large clearance cut on the bottom of the frame above the clutch. The reason that I removed so much material there is so that I could add strength. I will be filling in with 0.750" thick aluminum. I can then mill channels in my aluminum fillers to clear the contours of the clutch without losing structural integrity.


I milled 6061 aluminum sections to the width and contour of the inside walls of the frame. Here they are, bead blasted and ready to weld in.
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Pressed into the frame
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Then welded up and sealed. I'll be milling channels to clear the clutch cover bolts later.
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I'll try to get another post up tonight :cheers
 

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Nice. I'm thinking it's going to be a fun ride. I'm doing everything I can to shave weight and keep that litter bike handling and feel.


Looking forward for the outcome!


You could probably build a 1143 K1-K8 engine with a K7 cylinder head on top,no mods to the frame whatsoever,it can make 210hp easily and the engine itself would be 20-25 kg less weight.
 
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