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Hey guys...first post so I'll start with hi! New to the gixxer world..picked up an 07 750 back in October. Ran into my first issue last night...started the bike and let it warm up for a few minutes. It started fine like it always does..after a min it started idling strange..the revs were bouncing a little, rpm gauge went down to 0, gear indicator said I was in 3rd and registered 70km/h on the speedo, the bike was still on the stand in neutral. Then it shut off and wouldn't restart. I could hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the key and the starter would click but not spin. Figured it was the battery so I put it on charge for the night...today it started fine, I put my multi meter on while it was off and the battery registerred 13 volts, while running at idle it would drop to 12/11.9 and with some throttle drop to 10/10.5ish...does this seem normal for the volts to drop off that much? The stator and rectifier are somewhat new, installed last summer...any thoughts? Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #2
No it wasn't, still in the stock location. Any way to check those to see what needs replacing, hopefully not both
 

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No it wasn't, still in the stock location. Any way to check those to see what needs replacing, hopefully not both
Yes, pick up a digital multimeter (DMM) and follow the instructions in the service manual. I just had a thread about doing the same and used a DMM for the first time. I also watched a video on the different settings on the DMM. It was much easier than I thought. And the DMM doesn't have to be expensive. Mine is a harbor freight unit that was like $10
 

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Just took off the stator cover...a few of the coils are black. Think it's pretty safe to assume the rectifier is toast as well? Took that off as well, from the outside it looks fine, doesn't seem to be any burn or heat marks on that. I'd rather not spend the extra hundred(s) on replacing that if I don't have to
 

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Just took off the stator cover...a few of the coils are black. Think it's pretty safe to assume the rectifier is toast as well? Took that off as well, from the outside it looks fine, doesn't seem to be any burn or heat marks on that. I'd rather not spend the extra hundred(s) on replacing that if I don't have to
From what I read in here the consensus seems to be you replace them together.

I would think though that if it tests out fine per the service manual with the DMM, then run it. That's what the test is for right? 🤔
 

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There's no reason to assume that a failed stator would cause the rectifier to fail as well. After all, a failed stator can generally only put out less current (when one or more phases are shorted, have raised resistance or lost continuity). Since the rectifier is easy to replace when it fails, I would test it, to make sure it's in working order and leave it be if it is. (Also check its connectors to make sure they don't show signs of overheating.)
 
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