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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,
Just picked up an '06 600 track bike, and am after some tips to set her up.

Came with:
-clip ons
-rearsets
-yoshi trc slip-on only
-k&n air filter
-race glass
-GB racing engine covers

On my to do list so far:
-re-do ergos (lever position, clipon angle, rearset position)
-quickshifter
-fork/shock setup for weight - respring since i'm 200lb+, debating revalve as well.
-SET valve removal (if not already done, forgot to check)

Anything I've missed?

Thanks in advance!
-Tom
 

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Track day or racing? Sounds to me like it is good to go already really. The bike will be a little soft but not overly so for track days.
 

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if you are more than 190 or less than 160, i would simply swap spring rates. in stock form, it will be way more capable than you if you are beginning.
 

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Technically, you can run a stock bike and still be fine as a beginner/intermediate track rider.
However, there are things that make life easier on the track. The ease of replacement parts for rear sets and clip ons for example. So do you need anything? No, not really. But, having things like suspension and brakes will help you improve your lap times and tire wear/life.

If it were me, I would upgrade to an Öhlins FPK with the right springs for your weight and source a used rear (Öhlins, Elka, K-tech, etc.) shock. An upgraded master cylinder (Brembo, Accossato, Braking, etc.) with SS lines and race pads (Ferodo, Versah, etc.) will be the more beneficial than a QS, IMO.

At the end, it's not really what you're missing, it's what you feel is necessary in order to improve your technique, lap times, body position, etc.

Get yourself a red "R" and browse the classifieds, there are some nice parts for sale right now.
 

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I love when people think they "need" a full on superbike to ride in novice trackdays. They almost always are the people who also blame their slow times on the bike and setup, and weather as apposed to lack of technique
 

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I love when people think they "need" a full on superbike to ride in novice trackdays. They almost always are the people who also blame their slow times on the bike and setup, and weather as apposed to lack of technique
I know, right? A lot of people with more money than brains these days... :fact
 

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I know, right? A lot of people with more money than brains these days... :fact
so why did you give such a long mod list? you have 2k listed there if you sourced used parts. 3k for new parts.

if a new guy weighed between 160 and 190, he could take a bike out of the box, fill 'er up with gas and put down the exact same times as he would with those 3k in mods.
 

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so why did you give such a long mod list? you have 2k listed there if you sourced used parts. 3k for new parts.

if a new guy weighed between 160 and 190, he could take a bike out of the box, fill 'er up with gas and put down the exact same times as he would with those 3k in mods.
I loled too. The irony is not contained to only that post lol
 

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shit, i would go so far as say that spring rates won't even matter much anyway for a FNG.
That's what i said earlier, but not what I was getting at lol
 

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Joe, believe me, I understand exactly what you were getting at. It doesn't really take a genius. Whether you know it or not, a lot of your posts have helped me a lot and I cannot stress that enough, thank you.

so why did you give such a long mod list? you have 2k listed there if you sourced used parts. 3k for new parts.

if a new guy weighed between 160 and 190, he could take a bike out of the box, fill 'er up with gas and put down the exact same times as he would with those 3k in mods.
My post, like yours is only just my opnion. I can accept the fact if you don't necessarily agree with my input and respect the way in which you chose to reply.
Regarding the mods, $2k is on the high side of the spectrum, if you're patient deals can be had.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all the responses guys, I've only just had time to come back and read through this.

I'm just looking to do track days for some self-improvement at this stage, though I'd love to get into racing when time/money allows.

Down here in Aus we run 4 groups at our track days (novice, slow, medium, fast), and I'm right in the 'medium' category, on some days I'm one of the faster guys in the group, on most I'm somewhere in the middle.

I don't think I need upgraded brakes at this point, I'm just not limited in that area by my kit yet - I usually brake pretty early so that I can set my speed before the corner to focus on corner entry, line and when to put the power down. I'm not trying to set any crazy lap times or anything, and I find that this approach has so far allowed me to make some significant improvements :)

So I also actually looked at a kg-lb conversion scale, and I'm around the 240lb (~110kg) mark in full gear - would having spring rates so far off have an adverse effect on my tyre wear? I like to spend money to save money, and if I just happen to get a bit of a performance upgrade all the better :p
 

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So I also actually looked at a kg-lb conversion scale, and I'm around the 240lb (~110kg) mark in full gear - would having spring rates so far off have an adverse effect on my tyre wear? I like to spend money to save money, and if I just happen to get a bit of a performance upgrade all the better :p
i ran a full year on stock suspension at 97.6 kg WITHOUT gear and at around the pace you describe. no ill effects on tire wear. since you already have track time and you are doing well, i would seriously consider suspension work. i went from upper-medium group to competitive expert race times when i ponied-up the dough for good suspension.
 

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The Husbeast
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I'm 250lbs, I run fast intermediate pace at track days and I still run the stock suspension with re-worked valving front and rear. The stock fork springs (1.0kg/mm) are at the limit with the preload maxed out but the sag is correct, both static and rider. My shock spring was changed to a heavier rate which escapes me right now but it wasn't a huge change. The whole setup cost less than a thousand bucks and it works great. It's a viable option. Cheers, Mike.
 

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i had preload maxed out and upward of 50 mm for sag when i ran OEM suspension. OE springs are .9 for front on a 600 (750s have a 1.0), i presently have 1.0 at 200 lb rider weight. that 1.0 is a rounded-up figure too.
 

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The Husbeast
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I don't see how sag can be right with preload maxed out.
I guess I got lucky Joe. Both sag settings are good, it's lika a quarter turn from max preload. Not sure what the actual numbers are as I'm at work and can't check from here. But I have it written down somewhere at home.

Spring-rate not being the same between the 600 and 750? Bad assumption on my part.
 

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There's just no way man. That much preload the free sag will certainly be off. Can't be done. Its just how springs work.
 
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