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enjoys eating dicks
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I bought a bike from an auction that has no fairings no speedometer a gs no key. I purchased a key and tried to get it to start but it didn't. I changed the stator and rectifier as well, no start. I changed the fuses and the starter switch, no start. The bike is in Neutral. Kickstand is up. The bike turns over but don't start.... any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
 

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enjoys eating dicks
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Guys, I also should add that I've purchased two starter silonoid switches and none of them gives me the"clicking" sound when the start button is pressed.
 

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Uses squid tentacles as a butt-plug
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262 Posts
This is EXTREMELY vague brother it could be a number of different problems. Put a gage cluster on it that would be my first step to see if its even getting power, if it does maybe it will give you an FI light. If you don't have a MultiMeter then buy one and get yourself a manual and start checking every electrical wire in the harness. I would start with ones that deliver current to the starting system. Welcome sir to your project GOOD LUCK!
 

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I know things... A lot of things.
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3,152 Posts
Since the bike turns over, assuming that means that the starter motor is operational and cranks the engine, stator, rectifier and starter solenoid are not connected to your problem. The first two because they generally only affect charging of the battery (which evidently has enough juice to crank the motor), the latter because it operates the starter motor, which does work. It sounds most likely that the ECM is not powered, which would normally show up as CHEC on the dash. Since the dash is missing (and although you're unlikely to get far without it in the long run) you can troubleshoot directly, with a DMM. The first place to look for battery voltage, would be the O/G or O/W lead (depending on model) at the dealer mode connector.

Search the forum for more information. Use keywords such as "CHEC interlock dealer connector"
 

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Uses squid tentacles as a butt-plug
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262 Posts
Since the bike turns over, assuming that means that the starter motor is operational and cranks the engine, stator, rectifier and starter solenoid are not connected to your problem. The first two because they generally only affect charging of the battery (which evidently has enough juice to crank the motor), the latter because it operates the starter motor, which does work. It sounds most likely that the ECM is not powered, which would normally show up as CHEC on the dash. Since the dash is missing (and although you're unlikely to get far without in the long run) you can troubleshoot directly, with a DMM. There first place to look for battery voltage, would be the O/G or O/W lead (depending on model) at the dealer mode connector.

Search the forum for more information. Use keywords such as "CHEC interlock dealer connector"
Listen to this guy haha he knows some things I read your post wrong. I thought it said it WOULDN'T turn over.
 

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Premium Member
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24,541 Posts
Listen to this guy haha he knows some things I read your post wrong. I thought it said it WOULDN'T turn over.
He's one of our resident experts,always listen to his advice ;)
 

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Captain Obvious ... because obviously it’s obvious
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3,860 Posts
If it's turning over and the pump is not priming, but you confirm your fuel pump works, then it's quite possible that this is a lack of ECU communication.
Also, is this a US or EU model bike?
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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7,716 Posts
Where are you located? Does the bike have an immobilizer? There should be two connectors beneath the seat as is discussed here (note the link in #4). You're going to have some significant challenges if you do. In particular, the key must electronically match the ECM ID.

Download the service manual. A very helpful diagram for the starting system is on 9-12. It should be easy to figure out why the solenoid isn't clicking with it and a multimeter. A common problem is that the contacts on the Start button become corroded. They can be cleaned. The Y/G from the start button can be checked at the solenoid. The dealer mode connector that dpapavas mentions is a white six position connector (possibly with a black cover), also beneath the seat. The B/W lead to it is a ground.
 

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enjoys eating dicks
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Im currently in Georgia and have just changed the crankshaft sensor, TO sensor And another starter stwich and still won't turn over. The battery is good as well...it was tested.
 

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Uses squid tentacles as a butt-plug
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262 Posts
Don't keep throwing parts at the bike that will get expensive very fast and your likely to not find the problem do what BillV has stated and go from there. Too many people on these threads become impatient throw parts at the bike and get frustrated and give up. If you take a little time the manual and a DMM or VM you will find your issue and it may be as simple as cleaning corroded connectors as stated above. Deep breath a 6 pack and take your time.

Also make sure it has fuel :D haha
 

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enjoys eating dicks
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
It has gas but im thinking its electrical because I don't hear the "clicking" sound from the starter silonoid when attempting to start the bike. No sound is made at all. That's why I bought the new switch. I also bought the crankshaft sensor and spark plugs for process of elimination. I want to rule everything out before buying another ecu/ecm but I will try his suggestion once I get home.
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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7,716 Posts
Measure the voltage at the Y/G lead when you press the Start button with the ignition and engine stop switches on. If it goes to 12 V, you have a problem with the clutch switch. If it stays low, the problem is further upstream. Measure the voltage on both sides of the Ignition fuse with the ignition switch turned on. The ignition switch is suspect if it isn't 12 V. The Start button, engine stop switch, or the interlock relay is suspect if it is 12 V. You really ought to be doing all this with the bike in neutral and the kickstand up.

P.S. Getting it to turn over has nothing to do with the crankshaft sensor, TO sensor, ECM, or spark plugs. You worry about them afterwards.
 

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Uses squid tentacles as a butt-plug
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262 Posts
No sound.... so its not turning over? I'm sorry maybe I'm an idiot but I have always used the phrase "turning over" for the bike attempting to start, meaning the engine turning or at least the starter clicking. That would indicate a fuel issue or firing issue right? if not its definitely electrical as in this instance.( I'm asking more for my own knowledge)
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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7,716 Posts
^At first he said "The bike turns over but don't start". But he later says he "purchased two starter silonoid switches and none of them gives me the"clicking" sound when the start button is pressed". That's inconsistent unless he's expecting the actual start button to click, which it doesn't (the solenoid clicks but it's hard to hear if the starter motor turns). I assumed that the starter motor wasn't getting power because the solenoid wasn't functioning. But who knows?
 

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enjoys eating dicks
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Guys, let me make it clear so I can get the BEST help. When I pull in the clutch lever and press the start button with the kill switch on, I hear NOTHING, no clicking from the starter silonoid. No, the bike won't turn over or start or even attempt to start at that point. I bought two new silonoid and same outcome. Through touching the positive and negative cables to the silonoid it turned over but didn't start. Hope this helps
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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7,716 Posts
^You said that you changed the fuses. Did that include the 30 A main fuse? The bike would be electrically dead if it was blown. If it's OK, see #13.
 

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enjoys eating dicks
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Guys, I tested everything listed above... still didn't work. Everything seems to be working fine and have the correct voltage. But one thing I DID realize, and I know yall will KILL me for this lol... the bike was not in Neutral. BUT, the thing is, I can't get it to go in neutral. Since there's no speedometer I can't see what gear it's in.
 

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Likes to race old junk.
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1,619 Posts
If you don't have a rear stand, try rolling the bike back and forth, as you move the shifter...at some point you should be rewarded with a neutral, and the bike should roll freely.
 
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