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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone. Long time lurker, first time poster.

So I've got an 06 600 that I'm having some problems with. I bought this bike for recreational runs at the track and to do some light stunting on (in closed environments of course). I'm having a couple of problems. First off, the redline on the tac is 16,000 RPMs but for some reason my bike is redlining between 12 and 13,000. When in neutral, if you full throttle it to bounce it off the limiter it stops somewhere between the aforementioned RPMs, but doesn't stay there. It will hit 13k, then drop down to like 6,000 then bounce back up to 12,500 then all the way down to 2,000. It always drops off to some random RPM.

Next problem: The damn thing wont wheelie. A friend of mine has an 06 600 that I tried out and I can get it to come up every time. Power wheelie, clutch up, bouncing. Doesn't matter. His comes up every time. It's like mine doesn't have the power or torque to come up. Also, when I bounce it up in 3rd gear, the bike momentarily loses all power. Maybe half a second to 1 second, then kicks back on.

The only things I've done performance wise is a two brothers slip-on exhaust, and remove the Exhaust Control Valve (FI light was bugging me and the dealership couldn't even get it turned off). My buddy's 600 has also had the ECV delete and runs just fine.

Any ideas? Thoughts? Has anyone else experienced this issue? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm running out of ideas.



P.S. When riding recreational, like just a cruise the bike runs perfectly.
 

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First off, the redline on the tac is 16,000 RPMs but for some reason my bike is redlining between 12 and 13,000. When in neutral, if you full throttle it to bounce it off the limiter it stops somewhere between the aforementioned RPMs, but doesn't stay there. It will hit 13k, then drop down to like 6,000 then bounce back up to 12,500 then all the way down to 2,000. It always drops off to some random RPM.
When you say it will fall to 6k rpm then back up to 12.5k etc. is that just the needle jumping up and down, or do you actually hear the engine change its speed? If the latter, how quickly does that happen?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Bouncing the bike off the limiter while in neutral is a good way to damage the engine. Have you gone over the bike checking things like spark plugs, air filter, etc. to rule those out? How about a fuel flow test to see if you are getting appropriate fuel flow? As for the set-valve, you have to pull a wire out of the ecu to turn off the FI indicator. Search for how and which wire to pull, don't cut.
Yeah I know it could mess up the engine. But I noticed the problem when I ran it at the track the first time. The rev limiter kicked in around 13k. So when I got it back down to where I could check it out, I just full throttled it to test it out. Didn't hold it there or anything. I plan on changing the air filter and plugs this coming weekend just to be safe, plus I'm picky about what goes in my bike and the guy I bought this from just had generic cheap filter/plugs put in when he took it for maintenance.

But yeah, I'll try to do a fuel pressure test after I change the plugs and filter, since I'll be in there anyway.

As far as the set valve goes, that's already taken care of. Bike runs perfectly fine when just out for a cruise.

Thanks for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
When you say it will fall to 6k rpm then back up to 12.5k etc. is that just the needle jumping up and down, or do you actually hear the engine change its speed? If the latter, how quickly does that happen?
You can actually hear the engine change speed. It's not that consistent limiter sound when the needle bounces at 16,000 RPM. It hits the limiter once and immediately falls down to whatever RPM it decides it wants to go to. I'll try to upload a video this weekend when I'm with the bike. I keep it at my parents house because I live in an apartment complex.
 

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If your friend has the same bike, first try swapping the ECUs and see if the issue is resolved. Then swap on his tank and see if it's resolved.
 

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Both worn spark plugs and a clogged filter can result in loss of power at the high end, which would in turn lead to the engine not reaching the limiter, or to the bike not being able to wheelie. What puzzles me is how the engine can't reach the rev limiter under no load in neutral, but still runs more or less fine under all but the highest loads. I'd expect a fuel restriction severe enough to prevent reaching the limiter in neutral to make the bike top out at double-digit speeds.

A fuel restriction or worn plugs also doesn't explain the weird bouncing of the speed, which sounds most like a loss of spark for a relatively prolonged (on the order of a second or so) period of time. If this happened under load, in gear, I'd say to check your sidestand switch, but in neutral it shouldn't matter. So I'll second the advice above, but something more seems to be going on. Perhaps you might check your system voltage and how it behaves as the engine speed rises, on the off chance that something weird happens at high engine speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I got the plugs out and checked those (just to be sure) they look alright but I'm still gonna replace them since I'm in there anyway. I also took apart the fuel pump and pulled the teabag looking filter (picture attached). It looks pretty brown and gross. So maybe this is my problem? Gonna get a new one and throw everything back together and see what happens.
 

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There is still an internal filter. Probably clogged. Pricey to replace. Cleaning the filter sock may be enough for a while. Flow test as suggested tho.
 

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So I got the plugs out and checked those (just to be sure) they look alright but I'm still gonna replace them since I'm in there anyway. I also took apart the fuel pump and pulled the teabag looking filter (picture attached). It looks pretty brown and gross. So maybe this is my problem? Gonna get a new one and throw everything back together and see what happens.
There’s this really cool thing called diagnosing the problem. If you do it, you can find the causes without taking things apart unnecessarily and risking damage to the bike. Because fun fact: every time you take it apart, you risk damaging something.
You were given all the steps to take, you ignored them and did some pointless attempt that almost 10/10 never works, and now you’re asking if that was the problem?

Go back and read the thread, and follow the steps. Or just keep doing random things if you’re not going to follow the concise advice. You would have very quickly found out whether or not you needed to disassemble the pump with one test that takes less than 5 minutes to set up
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There’s this really cool thing called diagnosing the problem. If you do it, you can find the causes without taking things apart unnecessarily and risking damage to the bike. Because fun fact: every time you take it apart, you risk damaging something.
You were given all the steps to take, you ignored them and did some pointless attempt that almost 10/10 never works, and now you’re asking if that was the problem?

Go back and read the thread, and follow the steps. Or just keep doing random things if you’re not going to follow the concise advice. You would have very quickly found out whether or not you needed to disassemble the pump with one test that takes less than 5 minutes to set up
Pretty sure if I can disassemble an engine and put it back together, a fuel pump isn't too hard. Go be a douche on someone else's thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey everyone. Thanks for all the help. After I got the fuel pump disassembled i replaced the teabag screen (got 3 on amazon for 15$) and backflushed the fuel pump with seafoam as suggested. Bike runs great now and will hit the limiter at 16,000 where it's supposed to. Shift light it actually working too because I had it set to 14,500, but it was never reach that RPM. I though that was broken too but then realized I'm just dumb and it wasn't getting high enough to turn on.

But again, thanks for all the help!
 

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Captain Obvious ... because obviously it’s obvious
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Pretty sure if I can disassemble an engine and put it back together, a fuel pump isn't too hard. Go be a douche on someone else's thread.
Just because you don't like the truth does not mean someone is being a douche. If you were capable of disassembling the engine, I would hope you would have enough common sense to be able to properly diagnose something. Or do you disassemble the engine because you need to change the oil, too?

To people in the future, Mr. Custer here is the perfect example of what not to do: ignore advice and refuse to do simple diagnostic steps.
 
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