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· Dreaming of buttsecks for years...
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Well, you're hooked up to the STPS, not the TPS. And I can't make heads or tales of how your probes are wired. You've got something hooded to the wiring harness. If you're checking resistance of the sensor, you should have it disconnected from the harness, and your meter should make connections to the sensor and nothing else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Assume i have it hooked up right. What would i be seeing? I cant rev past 3k. Gears work. Putters. Just cleaned tank reservoir gas lines seafoam. New injectors. Coil packs spark the frame
 

· Dreaming of buttsecks for years...
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Were you getting a FI code before you started working on it?

Hooked up right means:
Looking at the right side of the bike, the sensor is three pins inline with the bike. From left to right, call them pins 1-2-3.
Resistance across pins 2&3 should be 1.5k Ohms closed and around 5k Ohms open.
Resistance across pins 1&3 should be around 5k Ohms no matter the position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have an aftermarket koso speedo. I may have to buy a stock speedo or finish connecting my current speedo.

These were connected via 1&3 and 2 was still connected with jumper. However i jumped off to the 2nd position sensor because thats what imthinking is preventing me from producing more than 3k rpm. So my probes are connected to the correct leads from the sensor.Sensor 1&3 read from 1.75kohms to 5.78kohms
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I first experienced this issue when on the highway cruising at 80mph, while i was riding the bike cut out. Would not kick over and when it would turn on, will idle but will not rev over 3k. Im looking for some help and trying to figure this out. I just need to know if open line when i am testing the sensor that it is bad. I dont mind any other suggestions as long as i can have a way to test it. Considering ordering another sensor from ebay.
 

· Dreaming of buttsecks for years...
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The second pic where you have a jumper going into the harness is wrong. Do not involve the harness at all when testing the sensor.

If you weren't getting a code, you're chasing a problem that doesn't exist. If that sensor was an issue, you'd be getting a C29 code (or C28 for special circumstances). With no code, your problem is most likely fuel delivery and you should do the fuel flow test. It's a sticky on the 04/05 page.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have pulled the fuel filter apart and put it back together. Cleaned the fuel lines installed injectors and did a flow test on just the pump then the injectors. I can pour a bit of seafoam in the heads and hit the starter button and the bike turns on. So that tells me the battery is good and the plugs give spark but after that will not run a higher rpm than 3k
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes. So there is an oring that is on the inside of the black plastic filter that came off of the petcock and then became a loss of pressure. Gas was not being pressurized. The oring was put back on and i put oil around it so that way it would seal. The tank is really dirty though. Going to need a new one but isnt at the top of my list. Glad THE GEEK kept suggesting pressure issue. My first clue was when i disconnected the rubber fuel delivery hose, gas was still coming out. GAS SHOULD NOT LEAK OUT OF THE HOSE NO MATTER WHAT. Means loss of pressure in the filter. Thats why gas was bypassing the oring and coming out the hose. Im open to questions. Issue resolved. Thank you.
 

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