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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have an aim to try and get into the 9's on a stock wheel base, stock height (not lowered, not strapped) k5 1000.

Currently bike is relatively stock, really just -1 front tooth, 42 (stock count)rear, 520 chain, air filter, slip on, QS, +5mm rear shock shim, forks 4mm through the triples (stock), plus other stuff I don't think matters.

I also have done the clutch Mod just recently to have the 6 oiling holes instead of the 3, put k7+ spring centering washers, the k7 spring washer, changed out all the springs, drive and driven plates to OEM items. It has greatly reduced/removed the 'shudder' on harder launches. best feeling clutch i've had.

I've spoken to the local guys, ones that are really quick, they change the clutch out each 5-6 runs, sometimes less, they are however, running into the 8s.

Generally with low 10's what should I expect the clutch to last, whilst maintaining its great feel? 60's are horrible at 1.9-2.0

Current PB is a 10.32 at about 140mph, I have gone 144mph but not on a 10.3x run.


Launching;

OK so launch is key, I know that. I've tried different methods, previously I used to rev it to about 6-7 and ease off the clutch maintaining the revs, till the clutch is all the way out, then flatten the throttle and try keep the front down. ran a 10.3x that way.

More recently I've tried the other way of reving it to about the same maybe more, flattening it to redline before I'm off the clutch, then easing off the clutch i've also ran a 10.3x that way.

I used the 1st method prior to raising the bike 5mm at the back, and prior to putting a qs and raising rearsets.
Once I did the above I started using the second method and after a few runs got down to 10.3x. so there are some variables.

I've only gone out once since I did the clutch, got a 10.3x 1st run out so happy with that. But expecting 10.1 because the last clutch was rooted, had easily over 120 10 second passes about 33,000km of track days and dailying.

Would like to hear what others who have run quicker times with similar setups used and preferred?
I know it's subjective, but would like other opinions on it.
 

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Been drag racing stock wheelbase K5/6 1K's since '05. Just never at stock height,and you asked for advice from folks who drag at stock height;can't help ya there ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Been drag racing stock wheelbase K5/6 1K's since '05. Just never at stock height,and you asked for advice from folks who drag at stock height;can't help ya there ;)
Good point!

I have ordered a strap, just to break into the 9's just in case my best is a 10.0...

Whats your take on straps through the axles instead of on the back of the calipers?

Technique, do you ride the clutch till the throttle is on the stop and ease off, or clutch or the way out then wind 1st out?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
While I'm at it, it's easy enough to put some lowering links, so looking at ordering some Brocks items.

Whats everyone's take on Swing arm extensions? I know there's some that think they are not safe, I have heard others say they are fine, been looking at GSXR 1000 Swingarm Extensions | FTD Customs

Is it worth going 12 inches over the 4-7 inch? how many link chain does each one require?

Should I just stick to the lowering for now, before even considering an extension?
 

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You should listen to me. No, seriously, listen to
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The link is dead but see this anyway. I remember looking at the video and he made it seem rather easy. Note the emphasis on rider skills. Possibly SPL knows if the video survives somewhere else.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How much can you lower the k5 before standard fairings/sump starts having clearance issues? If using brocks lowering links, whats the lowest I could go?

Also how far do you put the forks through the triples?
 

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While I'm at it, it's easy enough to put some lowering links, so looking at ordering some Brocks items.

Whats everyone's take on Swing arm extensions? I know there's some that think they are not safe, I have heard others say they are fine, been looking at GSXR 1000 Swingarm Extensions | FTD Customs

Is it worth going 12 inches over the 4-7 inch? how many link chain does each one require?

Should I just stick to the lowering for now, before even considering an extension?
The only reason to buy extensions is if you're planning on immediately welding them into place or if you're making a show bike you won't ride. You are putting a ridiculous amount of stress on a very small area, which is a great way to create a catastrophic failure. You could be lucky and have it happen at launch, or you could weaken it and have it fail at 140mph.
Just spend the money on a swingarm, even if it's a used one.
 

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Good point!

I have ordered a strap, just to break into the 9's just in case my best is a 10.0...

Whats your take on straps through the axles instead of on the back of the calipers?

Technique, do you ride the clutch till the throttle is on the stop and ease off, or clutch or the way out then wind 1st out?
Use the strap properly&mount it to the caliper bolts. All my bikes have always been my daily riders so replacing a clutch after every trip to the strip gets expensive and time consuming;I never hold the throttle WFO and slip the clutch off the line,but then again I'm out there to have fun not try and set any records. I usually get the revs up around 6-7k rpm(been awhile since I've launched a stock engine K5/6)but you have to tailor the launch rpm to your setup,the track conditions and your weight. I'm around 215-220lbs suited so it may be different for you. Regardless of launch rpm the clutch is completely out of my hand by the 60' timer.


While I'm at it, it's easy enough to put some lowering links, so looking at ordering some Brocks items.

Whats everyone's take on Swing arm extensions? I know there's some that think they are not safe, I have heard others say they are fine, been looking at GSXR 1000 Swingarm Extensions | FTD Customs

Is it worth going 12 inches over the 4-7 inch? how many link chain does each one require?

Should I just stick to the lowering for now, before even considering an extension?
If you lower the front,you gotta lower the rear as well so definitely get the adjustable rear dogbones;I use the simple 3-hole dogbones on my K5.

You'll want to adjust your rear shock,soften up the compression and tighten up the rebound damping so the bike squats on the initial launch and then becomes stiff as it rebounds to help traction/fight wheelies. Again,you'll have to find the exact settings to match your bike/weight for best performance.

I share the same feelings towards swingarm extensions as does Just_Nick;get a proper arm. Also,the longer the arm the less traction you will have launching w OEM suspension,which means you'll have to buy an expensive drag-shock if you want the bike to hook,and you'll need a sticky rear tire. But,start off taking baby-steps so to speak. Learn to launch the bike at SWB,once you get your launch down and are consistent with your 60'&330' slap an arm on the bike and you'll really see a drop in E.T.

About the 60' time....yeah its extremely important if you want a good E.T. but what a lot of folks don't realize (on a SWB bike) is the 330' is more important. You can have a killer 1.5 second 60' and as soon as the bike hits 13,000rpm,the front wheel heads towards the sky...and you have to chop the throttle,effectively killing that run. Practice to be aggressive on your launch but be smooth at the same time in order to get a good 330' and you'll be in the 9s no problem.

I've gone 9.50s-9.60s @142-144mph on a stock engine/SWB K5/6 with me weighing 220lbs and I'm far far far from a "jockey" lol.

And yes,I did have a badass 1070cc K5 that went high 8s in the link BillV posted but that bike was insanely hard to launch and it took a professional rider (google Tommy Micelli) to do it.

Another issue is the OEM slipper clutch. While great for trackdays and roadracing (which after all is what this bike is designed to do) it's horrible for launching. Thats why Brock designed his Clutch Mod which eliminates the slipper. Or,if you know a competent TIG weldor they can weld the OEM slipper to perform the same function as Brock's mod. I've welded all the slippers myself for all my bikes without issue.
Purchase heavy-duty clutch springs,they're a must-have item. Another tip is to use only Genuine Suzuki OEM clutch fibers/steels.


That should get you moving in the right direction;if you have any other questions post 'em up ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you for the very informative post, I've read it at least 5 times already.

My slipper cam/mechanism does have some signs of wear so may get that welded and just buy a new oem item for when I want to revert to the slipper. Just want to see how far I go with drag racing before I pour to much money in. I have previously only set the bike up for circuit /track days.

So far I have ordered lowering links, straps, and a stand (to cut and shorten) for the bike, I'll know the slipper needs to be sorted but I'll see how I go for now.

I plan on going out a few more times with the height as it is to try and break a few 1.8's and seat time which is the most critical part.

How many mm's/inches do you raise the forks through the triples before you have clearances issues? (then the strap of course)

Also do you use the long/furthest hole on the Brocks lowering links?

Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Another thing that came to mind, is when welding the slipper mech/cam. When it comes to reinstalling, do you also reinstall all the spring washers or just one like the brocks instructions?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good point!

I have ordered a strap, just to break into the 9's just in case my best is a 10.0...

Whats your take on straps through the axles instead of on the back of the calipers?

Technique, do you ride the clutch till the throttle is on the stop and ease off, or clutch or the way out then wind 1st out?
Use the strap properly&mount it to the caliper bolts. All my bikes have always been my daily riders so replacing a clutch after every trip to the strip gets expensive and time consuming;I never hold the throttle WFO and slip the clutch off the line,but then again I'm out there to have fun not try and set any records. I usually get the revs up around 6-7k rpm(been awhile since I've launched a stock engine K5/6)but you have to tailor the launch rpm to your setup,the track conditions and your weight. I'm around 215-220lbs suited so it may be different for you. Regardless of launch rpm the clutch is completely out of my hand by the 60' timer.


While I'm at it, it's easy enough to put some lowering links, so looking at ordering some Brocks items.

Whats everyone's take on Swing arm extensions? I know there's some that think they are not safe, I have heard others say they are fine, been looking at GSXR 1000 Swingarm Extensions | FTD Customs

Is it worth going 12 inches over the 4-7 inch? how many link chain does each one require?

Should I just stick to the lowering for now, before even considering an extension?
If you lower the front,you gotta lower the rear as well so definitely get the adjustable rear dogbones;I use the simple 3-hole dogbones on my K5.

You'll want to adjust your rear shock,soften up the compression and tighten up the rebound damping so the bike squats on the initial launch and then becomes stiff as it rebounds to help traction/fight wheelies. Again,you'll have to find the exact settings to match your bike/weight for best performance.

I share the same feelings towards swingarm extensions as does Just_Nick;get a proper arm. Also,the longer the arm the less traction you will have launching w OEM suspension,which means you'll have to buy an expensive drag-shock if you want the bike to hook,and you'll need a sticky rear tire. But,start off taking baby-steps so to speak. Learn to launch the bike at SWB,once you get your launch down and are consistent with your 60'&330' slap an arm on the bike and you'll really see a drop in E.T.

About the 60' time....yeah its extremely important if you want a good E.T. but what a lot of folks don't realize (on a SWB bike) is the 330' is more important. You can have a killer 1.5 second 60' and as soon as the bike hits 13,000rpm,the front wheel heads towards the sky...and you have to chop the throttle,effectively killing that run. Practice to be aggressive on your launch but be smooth at the same time in order to get a good 330' and you'll be in the 9s no problem.

I've gone 9.50s-9.60s @142-144mph on a stock engine/SWB K5/6 with me weighing 220lbs and I'm far far far from a "jockey" lol.

And yes,I did have a badass 1070cc K5 that went high 8s in the link BillV posted but that bike was insanely hard to launch and it took a professional rider (google Tommy Micelli) to do it.

Another issue is the OEM slipper clutch. While great for trackdays and roadracing (which after all is what this bike is designed to do) it's horrible for launching. Thats why Brock designed his Clutch Mod which eliminates the slipper. Or,if you know a competent TIG weldor they can weld the OEM slipper to perform the same function as Brock's mod. I've welded all the slippers myself for all my bikes without issue.
Purchase heavy-duty clutch springs,they're a must-have item. Another tip is to use only Genuine Suzuki OEM clutch fibers/steels.


That should get you moving in the right direction;if you have any other questions post 'em up /forums/images/smilies/smiley_wink.gif

I read your post from an older thread regarding running the lowering strap under the tank bolts. That is taking the tank bolts out, lifting the tank, placing strap under the tank, and then replacing the bolts, correct?. I understand the strap must go underneath the throttle cables on the left side, with regards to the right side, do you also route the strap under clutch / coolant return lines? Would love to see how you do it on the k5.

Also got a new stand to shorten, any tricks?

Sorry about all the questions, but would rather learn from someone's experiences rather than having to do things twice.
 

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@GSXRISSA,

Your goal is certainly achievable, but it will involve far more rider skill than if the bike is properly prepared for drag racing at stock wheelbase.

Here is an example of one of our past drag racing national champions launching a K5:


The bike shown is stock wheelbase/foot shifting using all bolt-on parts. Engine specs: 100% stock internals, head milled/cams degreed.

This might help you also: http://blog.brocksperformance.com/faq/what-launch-technique-does-brock-teach-to-rookie-drag-racers/

Brock
www.BrocksPerformance.com
 

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@BrocksPerf the old Pro Star 1000 SS was such a badass class,all the top riders jumped in on that one. I've had that vid of Woska saved on my laptop since it was originally posted back in the day :cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #16
@GSXRISSA,

Your goal is certainly achievable, but it will involve far more rider skill than if the bike is properly prepared for drag racing at stock wheelbase.

Here is an example of one of our past drag racing national champions launching a K5:


The bike shown is stock wheelbase/foot shifting using all bolt-on parts. Engine specs: 100% stock internals, head milled/cams degreed.

This might help you also: http://blog.brocksperformance.com/faq/what-launch-technique-does-brock-teach-to-rookie-drag-racers/

Brock
www.BrocksPerformance.com
Thank you, your material is very informative, and I enjoy watching your videos.

Went again a few nights ago, didn't better my 10.3 however my slowest was a 2.0 60ft and I consistently ran 1.9s.

I'll be going back in a few nights, and am aiming to better that prior to putting your lowering links and strapping the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
@GSXRISSA,

Your goal is certainly achievable, but it will involve far more rider skill than if the bike is properly prepared for drag racing at stock wheelbase.

Here is an example of one of our past drag racing national champions launching a K5:

https://youtu.be/ZyFHrQRPlkw

The bike shown is stock wheelbase/foot shifting using all bolt-on parts. Engine specs: 100% stock internals, head milled/cams degreed.

This might help you also: What launch technique does Brock teach to rookie drag racers? ? Brocks Performance

Brock
www.BrocksPerformance.com
Thanks Brock, went a 9.9 last night using the technique you explain in the video, took a few 10.0's and even a 10.00 before i got it.

I have to say, for at least one of those passes, I was just a passenger, it wasn't even the 9 pass.
 

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