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HIDPlanet.com. Their forums will tell you everything you need. There's a guy that has a post up in this forum right now that's looking for someone to go in with him to buy a set of ballasts. You could get a great brand ballast by Matsushita for $95, then go in with him on the bulbs and H7 adapters, and all you'd have left to do is build a wiring harness which you could get for under $10 from Radio Shack. Hit me up on PM if you have any questions, HID's are my speciality....
 

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Ok, sorry I wasn't around earlier for the conversation, but everyones said right with the exception of NewSixxer. Just because you have installed a lot of systems doesn't mean you've been doing it right. And wiring it to your high beams and using the factory ground for your install is not smart. You will need a 12V relay from Radio Shack. Here is a block diagram but I will walk you through it as well so that you can understand the basics of how they work.



You are using only one ballast so take that into consideration.

On that relay there are four prongs which you have to connect. One which is ground. This will be connected to your batterys negative terminal. One which is 12V Trigger, which will be from your factory plug that would go into your H7 Projector bulb. You will need a male connector that looks like the connector on your H7 bulb, and run it to the relay. This will plug into the +12V lead on that H7 plug and go to the 12V relay as the trigger. You will also need a +12V source, this will go to the relay from the +12V on your battery. Then you will have your +12V load, this will go to the +12V lead on your ballast. What happens is when the power is normally applied to your H7 bulb, it gets applied to the relay, which connects the +12V battery lead to the ballast, giving you a more direct connection to your battery, as well as using a thicker gauge wire (I used 12ga). Then you will run the two leads from the ballast that go to the ignitor to the front of your bike. Go along the left side of the bike where the factory wiring harness plug is located that connects to your gauges and headlamps. You wil have a total of 3 wires (2 for the ignitor and one goin' from your H7 socket to the relay). You can mount the ignitor on the bottom of the headlamp assembly with some doublesided 3M tape or you can zip-tie it to the brace on the front of your bike like I did. You will need to remove your nose to install the bulb. Use the guide on HIDPlanet.com for H7 Valeo projectors since you will be doing nearly the same install. You have to notch out the bulb like they do in the article, and also you will need to bend your stock bulb holder spring a tad bit to get it around the new D2S bulb. Here's the spring I'm talkin' about



You will also need to modify your rubber boot to get the bulb connector inside it. I then put electrical tape around the rubber boot so water couldn't get in.

Here's what my install looked like under the seat. It's a tad messy, but you can get the idea. I have a different model Matsushita ballast than what the guy is selling you two, but you get a good idea of a good location for it from this pic.



Here's some final pics of the install so you can see what it'll look like yourself!





^^That's the beam cutoff, nice rainbow pattern right?! If yours isn't straight or is not defined, reseat your bulb. Mine was in crooked first time I installed, that how I found that you need to bend the spring down a bit on the bottom of the bulb in order to hold it in all the way.



 

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Ok, here's a list of what you will need as well as what they are!

D2S Bulb: This is the actual HID bulb that will go into the socket of the projector. Made by Phillips, you need 4300K. Make SURE you don't buy D2R, those have built in shields and are made for reflectors.

Ballast: This is the brains of the HID system. It's the computer that will apply the power to the ignitor.

Ignitor: This is where the capacitor is that discharges the energy through the bulb to light it, or ignite it.

12V Relay: This allows more power to get to your ballast. Since HID's require a lot of power at startup, this surge of power draw cannot come from the factory wires that go into your factory headlamp bulb. You will need a relay system. The relay uses a trigger (the 12V commin' from your stock bulb socket) to connect one lead to another. In this case, it connects a 12V source to a 12V load (your positive battery terminal to the positive end of the ballast).

D2S to H7 Adapter: This is just a thin plate of metal that slips over the bulb in order to make it stay put inside your projector.

Wire: 12ga should be good, follow the diagram I just posted earlier.

You'll also need some connectors you can get from Radio Shack. You'll need 1 male and about 4 females for the relay. Plus you'll need a fuse holder if you want to fuse your ballast so that it won't burn if it gets shorted somehow.

Go to HIDPlanet.com's forums and read in the University Thread. It contains EVERYTHING YOU NEED!!! I suggest you read the following threads:

H7 valeo+D2S adapter+ D2S bulb (how to): You'll follow this step-by-step with the exception of the notch in the projector. Remember, on your bulb there's a return wire, this will face DOWN when you put the bulb in the socket (towards your front tire)

HID newb crash course [Learn the basics here]: Great basics here to get you started

How to make a Professional Harness *PICS*: This will help you making your harness but might be over your head. This guy is really good, I don't think my wiring is even this good. But it's good enough!

DIY harness Both Single-Bi-xenon (DSL go buy your parts): Follow this guide for your wiring harness. It's a bit simpler but his instructions aren't too clear.

Think again before gettin a HID "kit": Just a little more reassurance as to why we'd rather you do it yourself than buy a kit!


As always, you need help, send me a PM!!!
 

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So the general consensus is to replace the H7 w/ a HID bulb only... there is no reason to do both the H4 and H7 then?
Once you see the difference just the H7 being replaced makes, you'll realize why you don't need to replace the high beam. Most people use the high beam for flashing people, and you can't do that with a HID setup. It would mess up the electronics pretty bad! Plus, if you take a gander at your stock setup, you'll notice that the high's only put out a tad more light after the cutoff of your projector! You mostly notice that the stock output is only brightened by the H4 bulb. So no, it's not necessary to replace it with HID at all. You could do it, but then you'd loose the ability to flash people, and it wouldn't increase your output all that much...
 

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Yea but then again, the bright ass HID is now blinding people around you. The cutoff line bouncing up and down in their mirrors with the color it produces get's their attention enough! Our projectors are pretty neat 'cuz you get not only the purple/blue cutoff near the outside of the beam, but towards the center you get some green and orange as well, so that color combo flickering in peoples rearviews gets their attention pretty good! Blinding other people so that they swerve into you as you're trying to pass at 100+ is not good!
 

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Kevlar: Not necessary. The draw that the HID's pull on startup, while it is great, isn't enough to prevent your bike from starting. Just turn the bike on, let the ballasts discharge (you'll hear them get quiter and your bulb get brighter, takes about 10 seconds) then turn your bike on. No need for switch!
 
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