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HIDPlanet.com. Their forums will tell you everything you need. There's a guy that has a post up in this forum right now that's looking for someone to go in with him to buy a set of ballasts. You could get a great brand ballast by Matsushita for $95, then go in with him on the bulbs and H7 adapters, and all you'd have left to do is build a wiring harness which you could get for under $10 from Radio Shack. Hit me up on PM if you have any questions, HID's are my speciality....
 

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Like said check out the hidplanet.com forums.

And I would be the one who had the post trying to find someone to spilt a pair of ballasts, have a look here and if you do want to buy one just mention that you'd like to split a pair with Col. He'll sell them individually when he finds two buyers.

If you want to buy the bulbs and H7 adaptors through hidplanet.com, which come in pairs then I'd be happy to go halves and pay for you to post to me.

Any questions would probably be best answered by CrMo4130, after all he knows what he's talking about where as I'm planning to install HID but have no experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
okay... question to anyone? after getting the ballasts... what else would we need to get in order to complete the kit??? just the bulbs and h7 adaptor?? and for the bulb.... is there a specific temperature that you must use for the bikes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
crmo.... a couple of newbie questions sorry....

1. any body work need to be done?
2. bulb temperature - any bulb temperature? because you're using a 4300K... any reason why you chose 4300K over higher temps?
3. ballasts..... bulb.... adaptor.... wire harness..... complete kit??
 

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The way I figure you'd need the ballast, bulb, H7 adaptor and then use a relay triggered by the standard light circuit to provide a 20A fused supply to the ballast.

I've read that some people have found the HID bulb goes out while the starter is cranking and drawing most of the current.
But I already have this which doesn't turn my lights on until I put the bike in gear.
A cheaper alternative would be to install a manual switch to turn the HID light on after starting, but check with others as I don't know if this is genuine problem.

No bodywork mods should be needed but you would need some way to hold the ballast.
I plan to fabricate a bracket which will use the bolt holes already in the subframe for the Cali models carbon canister under the right side of the tail. Here there is plenty of room along with protection and still some ventilation as I believe the ballasts generate some heat.

I would use 4300K bulbs like CrMo4130 because they provide the most light output, where as the higher temp bulbs start to give off coloured light which is purely for looks and they have a lower light output.
 

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Its is actually very simple, I have installed a total of about 10 sets on cars, and 2 on motor cycles. The wiring that runs to the headlight consists of one ground wire, one high beam, and one low beam. Simply connect the ballast to the ground, then to the highbeam wire. Use a tester to determince which is the highbeam. Now you can control the HID on and off with the highbeam switch. I am looking for a bulb adapter for the projector lens. I belive its HB4? Does anyone know where to find it?
 

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Ok, sorry I wasn't around earlier for the conversation, but everyones said right with the exception of NewSixxer. Just because you have installed a lot of systems doesn't mean you've been doing it right. And wiring it to your high beams and using the factory ground for your install is not smart. You will need a 12V relay from Radio Shack. Here is a block diagram but I will walk you through it as well so that you can understand the basics of how they work.



You are using only one ballast so take that into consideration.

On that relay there are four prongs which you have to connect. One which is ground. This will be connected to your batterys negative terminal. One which is 12V Trigger, which will be from your factory plug that would go into your H7 Projector bulb. You will need a male connector that looks like the connector on your H7 bulb, and run it to the relay. This will plug into the +12V lead on that H7 plug and go to the 12V relay as the trigger. You will also need a +12V source, this will go to the relay from the +12V on your battery. Then you will have your +12V load, this will go to the +12V lead on your ballast. What happens is when the power is normally applied to your H7 bulb, it gets applied to the relay, which connects the +12V battery lead to the ballast, giving you a more direct connection to your battery, as well as using a thicker gauge wire (I used 12ga). Then you will run the two leads from the ballast that go to the ignitor to the front of your bike. Go along the left side of the bike where the factory wiring harness plug is located that connects to your gauges and headlamps. You wil have a total of 3 wires (2 for the ignitor and one goin' from your H7 socket to the relay). You can mount the ignitor on the bottom of the headlamp assembly with some doublesided 3M tape or you can zip-tie it to the brace on the front of your bike like I did. You will need to remove your nose to install the bulb. Use the guide on HIDPlanet.com for H7 Valeo projectors since you will be doing nearly the same install. You have to notch out the bulb like they do in the article, and also you will need to bend your stock bulb holder spring a tad bit to get it around the new D2S bulb. Here's the spring I'm talkin' about



You will also need to modify your rubber boot to get the bulb connector inside it. I then put electrical tape around the rubber boot so water couldn't get in.

Here's what my install looked like under the seat. It's a tad messy, but you can get the idea. I have a different model Matsushita ballast than what the guy is selling you two, but you get a good idea of a good location for it from this pic.



Here's some final pics of the install so you can see what it'll look like yourself!





^^That's the beam cutoff, nice rainbow pattern right?! If yours isn't straight or is not defined, reseat your bulb. Mine was in crooked first time I installed, that how I found that you need to bend the spring down a bit on the bottom of the bulb in order to hold it in all the way.



 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
holy cow... crmo.... its amazing how much you know about this... right now... all this info is wayyy above my head.... im trying to figure it out.... you're bike loooks awesome by the way... i guess my problem is the fact that i dont know any of these different components... i have no idea what they are and what they do? is it possible to explain these for me? it would help alot.... thanks
 

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Ok, here's a list of what you will need as well as what they are!

D2S Bulb: This is the actual HID bulb that will go into the socket of the projector. Made by Phillips, you need 4300K. Make SURE you don't buy D2R, those have built in shields and are made for reflectors.

Ballast: This is the brains of the HID system. It's the computer that will apply the power to the ignitor.

Ignitor: This is where the capacitor is that discharges the energy through the bulb to light it, or ignite it.

12V Relay: This allows more power to get to your ballast. Since HID's require a lot of power at startup, this surge of power draw cannot come from the factory wires that go into your factory headlamp bulb. You will need a relay system. The relay uses a trigger (the 12V commin' from your stock bulb socket) to connect one lead to another. In this case, it connects a 12V source to a 12V load (your positive battery terminal to the positive end of the ballast).

D2S to H7 Adapter: This is just a thin plate of metal that slips over the bulb in order to make it stay put inside your projector.

Wire: 12ga should be good, follow the diagram I just posted earlier.

You'll also need some connectors you can get from Radio Shack. You'll need 1 male and about 4 females for the relay. Plus you'll need a fuse holder if you want to fuse your ballast so that it won't burn if it gets shorted somehow.

Go to HIDPlanet.com's forums and read in the University Thread. It contains EVERYTHING YOU NEED!!! I suggest you read the following threads:

H7 valeo+D2S adapter+ D2S bulb (how to): You'll follow this step-by-step with the exception of the notch in the projector. Remember, on your bulb there's a return wire, this will face DOWN when you put the bulb in the socket (towards your front tire)

HID newb crash course [Learn the basics here]: Great basics here to get you started

How to make a Professional Harness *PICS*: This will help you making your harness but might be over your head. This guy is really good, I don't think my wiring is even this good. But it's good enough!

DIY harness Both Single-Bi-xenon (DSL go buy your parts): Follow this guide for your wiring harness. It's a bit simpler but his instructions aren't too clear.

Think again before gettin a HID "kit": Just a little more reassurance as to why we'd rather you do it yourself than buy a kit!


As always, you need help, send me a PM!!!
 

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I havent had any problems since I first installed the system almost a year ago. Then again I will never turn on my highbeam lamp until the bike is running. It is true that the ballast will pull a lot of power when turned on, but once it is on, the voltage will regulate itself. This is not the case in older motorcycles, in those type of applications is where I would use a setup like that.
 

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So the general consensus is to replace the H7 w/ a HID bulb only... there is no reason to do both the H4 and H7 then?
Once you see the difference just the H7 being replaced makes, you'll realize why you don't need to replace the high beam. Most people use the high beam for flashing people, and you can't do that with a HID setup. It would mess up the electronics pretty bad! Plus, if you take a gander at your stock setup, you'll notice that the high's only put out a tad more light after the cutoff of your projector! You mostly notice that the stock output is only brightened by the H4 bulb. So no, it's not necessary to replace it with HID at all. You could do it, but then you'd loose the ability to flash people, and it wouldn't increase your output all that much...
 

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This would be your preference. The projector lens focuses light onto the floor and has a sharp cutoff point. From far away it will look like its changing colors. Also, it doesnt blind people as much as the H4. I want cars to see me from more than a quarter mile away so the first one I changed is the H4 top lamp, now I will install the H7 HID.
 

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Yea but then again, the bright ass HID is now blinding people around you. The cutoff line bouncing up and down in their mirrors with the color it produces get's their attention enough! Our projectors are pretty neat 'cuz you get not only the purple/blue cutoff near the outside of the beam, but towards the center you get some green and orange as well, so that color combo flickering in peoples rearviews gets their attention pretty good! Blinding other people so that they swerve into you as you're trying to pass at 100+ is not good!
 

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Thanks...

So... flashing HIDs is generally a bad idea, which brings back the question of a "switch". Since mine is an '04 pre-"headlight cut on start" switch. I would have to suppliment my install with a headlight switch of some sort... so that the headlight doesn't come on until after the bike is started or until I turn it on.

The bike gizmo thing should suffice or should I look elsewhere?
 
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