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Just did mod this weekend and I have the brock clutch mod in. Question,

if you adjust the clutch per service manual it states 1. turn the clutch

lever all the way in. 2. Go under tank and make adjustment to give lever

10-15mm play 3. Open Clutch door and make adjustment with the 12mm

and 10mm and turning in then turning out and retighten. 4. Then you

make the adjustment again under the tank giving the 10-15mm again and

retighten the 12mm locknut. NOW! YOUR CLUTCH LEVER IS NOW STILL

TURNED IN. THE MANUAL NEVER STATES TO TOUCH THE THE THING

AGAIN. DOES IT STAY TURNED IN????????????????? :scratch AS I RECALL WHEN IT

WAS NEW IT WAS NEVER TURNED IN ALL THE WAY LIKE THAT. BUT THE

CLUTCH SEEMS TO BE ENGAGING AND DISENGAGING CORRECTLY.:wtf

FRIENDS SEEMS TO THINK IT'S TURNED IN TO FAR.

HELPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:cursing
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
TLDV8 - I didnt see any wear at all on the springs and im close to 300hp ! then again not too many miles on mine either since all the upgrades so ill keep an eye on this... maybe someone on here with more then a few k miles can chime in... thanks for that pic, dont know anyone who has taken the drive gear off the hub...

Rick you can bet a reunion is due lol... ill be just glad to get the hell out Tx right now .. stuck here for about 2 months before i go back for good

Stungbyme1000 - just back out the adjuster on the lever, it doesn't need to be turned in all the way.. in fact with the cable clutch most of the adjustment is made at the lever at least that how i have done it since i remember... if your clutch is engaging and disengaging then your good i take it so whats the problem?
 

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JetSpeedz said:
TLDV8 - I didnt see any wear at all on the springs and im close to 300hp ! then again not too many miles on mine either since all the upgrades so ill keep an eye on this... maybe someone on here with more then a few k miles can chime in... thanks for that pic, dont know anyone who has taken the drive gear off the hub...

Rick you can bet a reunion is due lol... ill be just glad to get the hell out Tx right now .. stuck here for about 2 months before i go back for good

Stungbyme1000 - just back out the adjuster on the lever, it doesn't need to be turned in all the way.. in fact with the cable clutch most of the adjustment is made at the lever at least that how i have done it since i remember... if your clutch is engaging and disengaging then your good i take it so whats the problem?
Just seemed weird that the service manual does'nt mention backing it out anymore once it's in. Should I back it out at lever and then go under the tank to get 10-15mm play??????????? Just so it looks right?????????????:scratch
 

· Chubby Chaser
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I posted earlier in this thread about an odd phenomenon that was happening to my lever that I think I noticed 1 or 2 others posting that they saw something similar.

It seemed like the slack in the cable and the freeplay in the clutch lever were being somehow taken up as they were riding. Well I sat there on my bike the other day with it off and I realized what was happening (at least on mine anyway). Everytime I turned the bars to the right the adjuster wheel on the clutch perch would turn itself out???

I have no idea why it's doing this as it never did it before, at least not until I opened up the clutch and did the mod.
 

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JetSpeedz said:
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/member.php?u=76999
Rick you can bet a reunion is due lol... ill be just glad to get the hell out Tx right now .. stuck here for about 2 months before i go back for good
I keep threatening Mr. Martian with the prospect of meeting him at the track by the end of the year.
And Arend has so much time on his hands these days... A visit to the States wouldn't hurt his schedule. :)

I smell a BBQ and ride cookin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
Stungbyme1000 - you can back it out that will be fine but you will have to adjust it one way or the other to make sure it disengages when you pull the lever in..

Kaz that happened to me as well on my past bikes, it b/c you have very little to no slack at all on the cable.. that is why they recommend 10-15mm play... when you pull the bars all the way to one side where it puts tention on the cable and there is no tention it will just simply pull on the cable and you can hear a clicking sound every mm it pulls out as if your adjusting it yourself... perfectly normal, just leave some play in the cable

Rick Trackday and BBQ sounds like a good plan to me :) how lets see your up north, im in so cali and Palo is down south so it only seems fair to meet in the middle lol
 

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JetSpeedz said:
Rick Trackday and BBQ sounds like a good plan to me :) how lets see your up north, im in so cali and Palo is down south so it only seems fair to meet in the middle lol
No complaints here...
Let the planning commence.
 

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Well, all adjusted and it feels great. Going to cut it loose again at the track Sunday:biggrin Thanks for the info and the replies.:thumbup
 

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JetSpeedz said:
TLDV8 - I didnt see any wear at all on the springs and im close to 300hp ! then again not too many miles on mine either since all the upgrades so ill keep an eye on this... maybe someone on here with more then a few k miles can chime in... thanks for that pic, dont know anyone who has taken the drive gear off the hub...
The basket needed to be removed for machining so i could fit it to a TL drive.
The GSXR slipper set up will have to be a 1000% better than what the TL has stock.

 

· The Dreaded Midnight Taint Slapper
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SPL170db said:
I posted earlier in this thread about an odd phenomenon that was happening to my lever that I think I noticed 1 or 2 others posting that they saw something similar.

It seemed like the slack in the cable and the freeplay in the clutch lever were being somehow taken up as they were riding. Well I sat there on my bike the other day with it off and I realized what was happening (at least on mine anyway). Everytime I turned the bars to the right the adjuster wheel on the clutch perch would turn itself out???

I have no idea why it's doing this as it never did it before, at least not until I opened up the clutch and did the mod.

lubricate the interface of the adjuster bolt and the steel cable end where they meet at the perch. If the angled steel cable end cannot move freely when you turn the bars it will move the adjuster. You can also bend a little more tension into the detent spring that is supposed to keep the clutch freeplay adjuster knob from moving on its own (assuming you have stock levers and such).
 

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I just did this mod and noticed hot spots on the steel clutch plates. I have 4000 miles on my 06, is this fine? i just put it all back together..didn't worry about replacing them. Also..being in a hurry to get done before dark, i didn't pay attention to the positioning of the punch marks on the clutch lifter driven/drive cam pieces. the bike seems fine so far, but is this a big deal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
You might see a hot spot on the steel i had one as well but its fine very small and on only one steel. as long as you were able to punch it back you should be fine.. just make sure you oil pump gear was engaged... if it moved when you put it back on make sure you don't start the bike or else kiss the oil pump drive gear good bye
 
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