05/06 Gsxr 1000 Clutch Mod DIY w/ lots of Pics

284320 Views 478 Replies 186 Participants Last post by EddieRideFast, 3 mo ago

JetSpeedz

Discussion Starter · Apr 13, 2007 (Edited)

19

Here is my DIY contribution this great site. This is the clutch mod that has been discussed in the past. Thanks to Stocky for his contributions and others.

I have the PDF also for anyone interested to download here is the link Below. 56k users this is your best OPTION. Also if it expires pm me with your email and i will send it out.

http://www.savefile.com/files/636359

Enjoy!
-Ali-:cheers

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Tuffy

· #61 · May 27, 2007

SPL170db said:
Yes, because the new 750 washer is taller than the stock one it's replacing so you need to repostition the pins.

Thank for that i understand now will adjust to 2 3/4 as you have. what about the lining up the slots on the fibre plates all lined up exept for the last one ?
and did you use any silicone to seal the gasket ?:cheers

SPL170db

· #62 · May 27, 2007

Tuffy said:
Thank for that i understand now will adjust to 2 3/4 as you have. what about the lining up the slots on the fibre plates all lined up exept for the last one ?
and did you use any silicone to seal the gasket ?:cheers

Just take note of the order and location of the plates when taking them out and put them back in the same way. The service manual also shows you which ones to line up where.

I used hi-temp silicone RTV the same as Jetspeedz mentions in the the begining of the write-up.

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Tuffy

· #63 · May 28, 2007

SPL170db said:
Just take note of the order and location of the plates when taking them out and put them back in the same way. The service manual also shows you which ones to line up where.

I used hi-temp silicone RTV the same as Jetspeedz mentions in the the begining of the write-up.

Thanks for the help. will get some silicone. as for the plates i took them out and replaced them in reverse order but its the just the lining up of the slots that im concered with. looking at the fibres i dont think it matters, i have lined up all the small cutouts on the fibres exept for the last one,but on the pics on here the cutouts are all over the place , hope this makes sense.
thanks again :cheerspaul.

gixxerengineer

· #64 · May 29, 2007

thanks for the great write up

mobmoto

· #65 · Jun 3, 2007

Hi, great write up! I've had some clutch judder come in this season which has ruined my usual good starts. We checked the plates and they were fine yet the thing juddered off the line and the slipping actions were real grabby on the downshifts with the clutch lever snapping and smacking my fingers on each slip and grab inducing horrible backing in slides off the rear tyre..
I've done the drilling the three holes and as the basket is 1 year old now stepping had occurred on the grooves the plates sit in so whilst I was creating some swarf

drilling the 3 extra holes I thought I'd create some more by filing down the bumpy finish on the plate slots back to nice smooth one.

I was about to put it all back in with a new cable for good measure as well when I looked up the yoshi kit parts as I'm after much more slip on the downshifts than I was getting so far this season. They offer 2 replacements for the 3 reaction springs. 150N or 300N giving you either more or less slip either side of the standard 225N plates. Not having the $ to splash out on some (they aren’t cheap) I decided that as STM clutches only use one reaction plate and someone else from Oz posted that his only had 2 standard I would put it back together with only 2 lowering the pressure from 675N to 450N.
I adjusted the worm screw and the three slipper pins back up but I’ve set these to only 1 turn out rather than the usual 2 and ¼ as the gaps are now different with the 1 reaction spring missing (being .8mm in width and one thread being the equivalent to .8mm I worked out that running it at 1 turn out will be the equivalent to 2 turns with 3 springs).
So far so good no grabbing pulling away and lovely nice light clutch like I remember. Under load no slipping at all either but this was err just up and down the local road. I haven’t been able to test the slipping action on downshifts with this setup but will get the chance next week and will try and post an update.
Again great article and thanks to those that put the effort in.
Michael

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SPL170db

· #66 · Jun 3, 2007

mobmoto said:
So far so good no grabbing pulling away and lovely nice light clutch like I remember. Under load no slipping at all either but this was err just up and down the local road.

And you won't be able to really test it until you take it up to higher RPMs where the motor is laying out some high HP/torque #'s

For me it didn't start to slip under hard acceleration until it was up arount 7-8K rpm.

As a follow-up I've not backed the pins out to a full 3 turns out, at 2 3/4 I was still able to get a slight amount of slip as it was coming up on 10K rpm

mobmoto

· #67 · Jun 4, 2007

The thing is before I did all the work and remove the 1 reaction spring my slipper adjust screws were only 2 turns out to get the amount of slip I wanted with no slip under acceleration. I was working out that with the one spring gone and the gap that produced setting them to 1 turn out would be like setting them back to 2 turns had I left the 3 reaction springs in or am I talking out of my ass?
At 2 turns I was getting no slip under acceleration. I'll know for sure Wednesday, I'm taking the spring I left out with me in case it is all wrong. I don't really fancy having to take the basket off again but to save 2 days testing time I may have to. Fingers crossed. You have me worried as I did only take it to 8K...:scratch

JetSpeedz

Discussion Starter · #68 · Jun 4, 2007

well if you decide you want more just turn them in more and see how it goes, the wave washers are not that thick if you think about it...

SPL170db

· #69 · Jun 4, 2007

Hey Ali, I'm starting to think (at least according to my own findings now), that using the the lifter pins to adjust the amount of slip you get may not the way to go.

I remember Stocky mentioning that Yoshimura offers different stiffness reaction springs and using either more or stiffer ones is the way to go to adjust the amount of slip you get. Because from what I've been seeing, using the lifter pins just ends up with the bike slipping under acceleration.

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96296&highlight=reaction

In Stocky's case he says he turned the pins out 2 1/4 turns, but in his case he's only using 2 reactions springs, the stock clutch has 3, not sure how or if this affects it.

This all is of course just according to my own findings and adjusting, so I don't know for sure.

JetSpeedz

Discussion Starter · #70 · Jun 4, 2007

Kaz it makes perfect sense, the lifters to me are more of a fine tune for slip vs a big difference of running the Yosh reaction springs for a more drastic change... i suppose if you want more slip take one the 3 oem springs out but i can't see myself doing that running this much HP... or run 2 of the oem springs and one of the 150N Yosh springs to see if you get the slip your after... seems like its got a lot to do with rider preference...

drklr

· #71 · Jun 4, 2007

i have a question. i cant get the clutch basket out because the crank is in the way how do i move the crank?

SPL170db

· #72 · Jun 4, 2007

drklr said:
i have a question. i cant get the clutch basket out because the crank is in the way how do i move the crank?

You don't move the crank, read the directions again. You remove the bearing and spacer so the basket can move off to the side.

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drklr

· #73 · Jun 4, 2007

I know you do that but it still hits one of the lobes on the main crank on the right side of the basket when i try to remove it.

SPL170db

· #74 · Jun 4, 2007

Take a picture of what you're talking about.

BLACK051K

· #75 · Jun 4, 2007

Rotate the crank some by removing small allen cap on right side engine idle gear cover.Then use 14mm socket to turn crank (clockwise)this will rotate crank so lower portion of crank(porkchop) will clear basket for removal.

drklr

· #76 · Jun 4, 2007

4

k thats what i wanted to hear.
ok so i have it out and i drilled the holes. now is this normal?

and i bought a new clutch but i dont think the old one looks bad. the plates are just scratched up a little .. what do you think?

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sanaga

· #77 · Jun 5, 2007 (Edited)

change my spring washer myself today....need 1,5 hours to do this work....i dont drill the hole, i just change the spring washer....
this is one of my best mod so far.....cheap but give a lot improvement on my clutch...no judder/vibrate at all for now.....no mateer how big power u rev at start, very clean and smooth clutch for now....

thanks for thread starter...u are the man...

BLACK051K

· #78 · Jun 5, 2007

drklr said:
k thats what i wanted to hear.
ok so i have it out and i drilled the holes. now is this normal?

and i bought a new clutch but i dont think the old one looks bad. the plates are just scratched up a little .. what do you think?

Yeah!
That's deburred material taken off from Basket casting process.
Steels look OK from pics as long as they are true(not wrapped) or blue from over heating,They can be re-used. But,since you have already done the hard part might as well install purchased New Pack.

JetSpeedz

Discussion Starter · #79 · Jun 5, 2007

They look fine to me but if you already bought a set might as well replace them.. dont forget to soak the fibers in oil

drklr

· #80 · Jun 6, 2007

thanks guys. should i replace the springs too or is there something else that i can improve with different ones?

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