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05/06 Gsxr 1000 Clutch Mod DIY w/ lots of Pics

284320 Views 478 Replies 186 Participants Last post by  EddieRideFast
19
Here is my DIY contribution this great site. This is the clutch mod that has been discussed in the past. Thanks to Stocky for his contributions and others.

I have the PDF also for anyone interested to download here is the link Below. 56k users this is your best OPTION. Also if it expires pm me with your email and i will send it out.

http://www.savefile.com/files/636359

Enjoy!
-Ali-:cheers



















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Gotlieb

I just joined the forum today becasue I have just bought a K6 GSXR 1000 and right from the first day I bought it it made a mechanical vibration and grind noise just as you were fethering the clutch in just as you pulled off. This means the bike jerks forwards as the clutch seems to grab on its own.

The noise is OK but its a product of the plates vibrating just as they rub just like when you run your finger round the edge of a wine glass to make a resonant sound, it's often refered to as chatter. On the Gixxer it sounds more like a growel.

Like the wine glass trick as soon as the sound starts you feel a drag on your finger which is actualy the energy needed to make the sound.

Same happens on the clutch, trouble is the drag means the clutch transmits power.

It did it on me as I was just pulling off only slowly with about 2000 rpm from a junction so I was leaned over. In came the resonance the back spun up and sent the bike down the road.

I had no real throttle on, this was not a fast launch.

I have been riding 35 years and sports bikes for 10. I can make the clutch do this with 2000 rpm on and it does it hot or cold, but thats just like the wine glass it will make the same sound (or resonate) if your move your finger at the right speed and with the right pressure.

Is that what this mod fixes? Dont Suzuki have a mod for this, this is dangerous!

Amazing PDF thanks to all those who put in such effort, at least I know there is a solution but the dealer should sort this, I can do it but this is a new bike and some ones gonna have to pay for the damage.

Graham
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Thanks for confirming the clutch mod will solve the problem. Suzuki should be very greatfull that you guys have taken the time and trouble to sort what is their fcuk up.

I did some more trawling of the web and there are a lot of bikes affected. I really have a problem with the bullshit approach, I feel they put my frikin life at risk with this bike. If it does it at a junction it has sufficient energy to punt you out into on comming traffic.

I do not know if mine is the only bike that does it to this degree but I would sure be interested hearing from anyone else with this problem who has had damage as a result and who would like to persue Suzuki through a class action.

And I am not talking a no win no fee bullshit I mean a proper ££ barrister, clearly there's a case to answer.

You can also email me on [email protected]

It's not that I am not capable of doing the mod , I have been building bikes for years, it's just I would not build one like this and I sure would not sell it to anyone else!
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Just fix the bike and ride it, it only costs a couple bucks and 2 hours of your time. Class action lawsuits are pointless for everyone but a lawyer, lol.

Besides they addressed the problem in the K7 most likely anyway.
SPL, thanks for the heads up on this thread.
Any word on the 05/06 750 having this problem?
Hmmm................I got a problem now.

My clutch appears to slip under hard acceleration now. At first I though maybe my rear tire was just breaking tractions, but in all 6 gears???

I turned out the lifter pins 2 1/4 turns as suggested. Is that not enough, should I turn them out 2.5 or 2.75 turns out.


Any suggestions? I'm going to try it at 2 3/4 turns out on the pins and see how it feels. It looks like it's just barely at 3 threads showing which sounds like what it should be close to stock, that was OK enough for me, slipping under hard acceleration definately is not.
OK, twisted the lifter pins out to 2 3/4 turns out from the previous 2 1/4 turns out and that seems to have fixed the problem.

Went out and whacked the throttle hard enough to loft the front end in the first three gears and it put down the power good this time around, before it would have started to slip around 7K or so...........and it still slips fine on downshifts.

I don't know if each person's clutch will react differently than others but in my case the 2 1/4 turns out on the lifter pins was no good. :)
thanks for the input Kaz ill have to test mine as soon as the wheels get back on.. still waiting on EMA
I was wondering about the Long Term reliabilty of doing this mod

Does drilling 3 extra holes in the clutch basket weaken it in any way ??

What sort of mileage have people done since performing this mod ??


Appreciate any replies

Dean
deank69 said:
I was wondering about the Long Term reliabilty of doing this mod

Does drilling 3 extra holes in the clutch basket weaken it in any way ??

What sort of mileage have people done since performing this mod ??


Appreciate any replies

Dean

You're not turning the basket into swiss cheese you're only adding 3 holes to the 3 existing ones that are there already. That middle part of the basket isn't really stressed at all and the whole thing is pressed onto a big steel gear behind it.





Look at how many holes (and the size) that are drilled into a typical aluminum sprocket. FYI, I think the K7 already has these drilled into it's basket, if anyone can confirm that???
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if i only change the spring washer, will the issue gone perfectly..??
just curious....since it kinda suck to drill a hole for me to do....
The primary thing to do is the 750 wave washer yes. The other things are just recommended to smooth the clutch action additionall through different means (i.e. greasing the cam gear, drilling addition lube holes).
thanks spl....
but with guidance of NosNelson, i adjust the clutch as he said, the shudder gone....i have try to launch it hard several time, and its gone....
what do you think..? is it a adjustment issue or really need to change the spring washer..???
jetzspeed mate ur a legend, and any one who help'd contributing. I had the same drama with my k5 1000, but i took it to my mechanic and he fixed it for me. I did not see this write up until now the day after. My mechanic did the 3 holes but im unsure if he put the 750 washer in it. It has not done the shudder, gay noise since. And i pillion my gf after riding it to see it if was ok and it did not do it. Im so happy its fixed!
So I found something a little different when I pulled mine apart this evening!

At the rear of the clutch pack was (Back to front) #13 Seat, Fiber plate, #14 Spring and so on.

So I put it back together with #13, Updated #14 and then the fiber plate and so on like it's supposed to be!

Anyone seen this before?
Do i need to use any of the suzuki bond when i put the clutch casing back on even when using a new gasket ? or is it not needed ?? or should i use something else.:)
Just a couple of points to add, if you do the clutch mod with just the new washer and no hole drilling is it really necessary to re adjust the 3 lifter pins.?
also the friction plates have a slot cut into them i have lined all mine up the same exept for the last one is this correct (the pics in the how to look as though the slots are all over the place ) im sure you will know what i mean.
:cheers
Tuffy said:
Just a couple of points to add, if you do the clutch mod with just the new washer and no hole drilling is it really necessary to re adjust the 3 lifter pins.?
also the friction plates have a slot cut into them i have lined all mine up the same exept for the last one is this correct (the pics in the how to look as though the slots are all over the place ) im sure you will know what i mean.
:cheers

Yes, because the new 750 washer is taller than the stock one it's replacing so you need to repostition the pins.
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