05/06 Gsxr 1000 Clutch Mod DIY w/ lots of Pics

I see that I wasn't paying attention. Per 10-53 in the service manual, all drive plates are 2.8 ± .08 mm thick. That means that the stack height is 10*2.8 + 9*2.3 = 48.7 mm (1.917 in) when a 2.3 mm ninth driven plate is used. The ±.3 mm ninth driven plate option may be to allow that height to be achieved when the drive plate variations stack up. At least that's the best that I can come up with right now.

I can add that to the K5/K6 service manual if a fairly broad consensus can be reached here. However note that this is for a new clutch. Used drive plates can be much thinner and I don't know what to do about stack height there.

Finally, in partial answer to DutchGSX-R1000's question from five months ago, the OEM spring free length is 57.01 mm and they should be replaced at 54.2 mm. His winding counts seem reasonable when compared to spring pics but I can't be more specific than that. No idea of wire diameter. Coil diameter is also important but it can't vary much, given the constraints of the head.

I've read practically every K1-K9 clutch post there is in an effort to satisfy my K4 clutch OCDness.
This is my first road bike K4 1000, when purchased it had 16,000km and had been fitted with the Kawa plate and was smooth on take off but that was it. Crunched when changing up and down gears, changed the oil to Amsoil and it was 30% better.
Then I removed the clutch and found it was dry, lubed plates was better for a while, removed basket and drilled 3 holes.
Better again but it still felt like the clutch wasn't fully releasing. Also when changing gears and releasing the throttle it felt the like engine braking was slowing the revs down too much and just the engine braking in general was too much (I ride two stroke dirt bikes) had to keep a little throttle on. Clicking from 2nd to 3rd was real clunky.
So I bought a low mile K8 complete clutch assembly. Ordered a new K5-6 lifter hat to fine tune rod length and a new gear selector star.
I drilled 3 extra holes in the basket and fitted everything this week, still on Christmas holidays?. Set slipper adjustment to 2 turns out.
Did a 200km test ride today and it's a different bike! Snicks gears no crunching. 2nd to 3rd great now shifts smooth. No engine braking effect on gear changes, I can pop down through the gears and the bike stays calm almost feels two strokeish running through a turn, one small down side is I have to brake harder to compensate for lack of engine braking! So happy with the bike now, one happy camper!
Thanks again for all the great information.
Next job is to re-valve and spring the rock hard forks.

Is their anywhere else to download the clutch mod instructions other than the link at the beginning of the article? When I click on it, it just brings me to this:

Husky sucks.
Are these installed with thread lock?
My hex socket busted trying to loosen the first hex screw.


I did the washer + the holes.
I'm seeing three threads showing on what looks to be untouched since the factory.
Have lots of engine braking though. So, I'll probably come back and tackle these screws someday (after I buy new/better hex sockets).

JetSpeedz said:

not for long im moving back to cali for good, soon... this place is just hell during summer... 6 weeks of straight thunderstorms with 80%+ humidity...

Click to expand...

Quoting a post from 2007 here...
Hahah, I moved to Austin from SoCal the year before and remember being incredibly "impressed" with all the rain that June+ of 2007.

FYI to anyone Googling the clutch rod adjustment.
I found the instruction "until you meet resistance" to be very confusing.
Because it's possible to screw these in much further than the initial resistance.
I'm guessing it's pushing the rod.

So, if you back it all the way out.
And start screwing it in, you'll almost immediately get some "slight resistance" after just two or three or so turns.
But it's actually possible to keep going much further until you get to a "hard stop".
I don't think we want the hard stop.
I think we want that first, initial slight resistance.
At least, that's how I did mine.

I replaced the clutch, clutch cable and clutch lever (for an aftermarket adjustable) all at the same time.
I was able to adjust everything till I get a dime's width of slack at the clutch lever.
And the clutch starts to engage just before the halfway mark when letting out the lever.