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05/06 Gsxr 1000 Clutch Mod DIY w/ lots of Pics

284304 Views 478 Replies 186 Participants Last post by  EddieRideFast
Here is my DIY contribution this great site. This is the clutch mod that has been discussed in the past. Thanks to Stocky for his contributions and others.

I have the PDF also for anyone interested to download here is the link Below. 56k users this is your best OPTION. Also if it expires pm me with your email and i will send it out.


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I see that I wasn't paying attention. Per 10-53 in the service manual, all drive plates are 2.8 ± .08 mm thick. That means that the stack height is 10*2.8 + 9*2.3 = 48.7 mm (1.917 in) when a 2.3 mm ninth driven plate is used. The ±.3 mm ninth driven plate option may be to allow that height to be achieved when the drive plate variations stack up. At least that's the best that I can come up with right now.

I can add that to the K5/K6 service manual if a fairly broad consensus can be reached here. However note that this is for a new clutch. Used drive plates can be much thinner and I don't know what to do about stack height there.

Finally, in partial answer to DutchGSX-R1000's question from five months ago, the OEM spring free length is 57.01 mm and they should be replaced at 54.2 mm. His winding counts seem reasonable when compared to spring pics but I can't be more specific than that. No idea of wire diameter. Coil diameter is also important but it can't vary much, given the constraints of the head.
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hi guys, which mod is best to do, this one with wave washer or the brock one
Just bought my first GSXR a K5 1000 rizla 9k miles but on the way home I found it judders like a bitch in first sometimes so here I am.
Has anyone got the PDF of this mod as the resolution on the pics aren’t great. I fancy giving it a go.
^Look here. There are two versions. So take your pick.
I've read practically every K1-K9 clutch post there is in an effort to satisfy my K4 clutch OCDness.
This is my first road bike K4 1000, when purchased it had 16,000km and had been fitted with the Kawa plate and was smooth on take off but that was it. Crunched when changing up and down gears, changed the oil to Amsoil and it was 30% better.
Then I removed the clutch and found it was dry, lubed plates was better for a while, removed basket and drilled 3 holes.
Better again but it still felt like the clutch wasn't fully releasing. Also when changing gears and releasing the throttle it felt the like engine braking was slowing the revs down too much and just the engine braking in general was too much (I ride two stroke dirt bikes) had to keep a little throttle on. Clicking from 2nd to 3rd was real clunky.
So I bought a low mile K8 complete clutch assembly. Ordered a new K5-6 lifter hat to fine tune rod length and a new gear selector star.
I drilled 3 extra holes in the basket and fitted everything this week, still on Christmas holidays?. Set slipper adjustment to 2 turns out.
Did a 200km test ride today and it's a different bike! Snicks gears no crunching. 2nd to 3rd great now shifts smooth. No engine braking effect on gear changes, I can pop down through the gears and the bike stays calm almost feels two strokeish running through a turn, one small down side is I have to brake harder to compensate for lack of engine braking! So happy with the bike now, one happy camper!
Thanks again for all the great information.
Next job is to re-valve and spring the rock hard forks.
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It's amazing how many people w/ the K models, still use the clutch to upshift from 1-2, 23-, etc.
Of course you need it to take off, but then?
They're using it the way it was designed to be used.
They're using it the way it was designed to be used.
Well you need it to take off. That's about it. Plenty of threads on 'clutchless shifting'- w/o a quick shifter too. YOu can even blip the throttle and downshift too if you like.
Recently did just the conical washer.
Big positive change!
I did the washer, drilled holes, and new OEM Clutch, & springs. Followed this thread to a T. My clutch fells great, does everything it should.
thanks for the info
I was just reading the 2007 New Model Update Seminar Manual and it mentions that the eighteen oiling holes in the side of the clutch hub were enlarged from 2 mm in K5/K6 to 3 mm. This seems like a simple thing to do while the clutch is apart. Has anyone done that or have any opinion pro or con about it?
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Is their anywhere else to download the clutch mod instructions other than the link at the beginning of the article? When I click on it, it just brings me to this:
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Never mind..found it in BillV's docs. :) Thanks!
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never had any issues with my 051k over 50k miles on it, what exactly is the issue experienced, chatter?

when is this chatter happening, under slipper or?
^Search the K5/K6 forum for "clutch chatter". Look for posts that are at least 10 years old. Many of the hits are in this thread. It happens during moderately hard launches.
ON mine, it happened just taking off 90% of the the time. Chattered is a pretty good descriptive term i guess.
I just replaced the conical washer listed (from a 750?) and now I get ,chatter less than 1% of the time.
Husky sucks.
Are these installed with thread lock?
My hex socket busted trying to loosen the first hex screw.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Crankset Tire Wheel

I did the washer + the holes.
I'm seeing three threads showing on what looks to be untouched since the factory.
Have lots of engine braking though. So, I'll probably come back and tackle these screws someday (after I buy new/better hex sockets).
Wheel Automotive tire Hubcap Alloy wheel Rim

not for long im moving back to cali for good, soon... this place is just hell during summer... 6 weeks of straight thunderstorms with 80%+ humidity...
Quoting a post from 2007 here...
Hahah, I moved to Austin from SoCal the year before and remember being incredibly "impressed" with all the rain that June+ of 2007.
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FYI to anyone Googling the clutch rod adjustment.
I found the instruction "until you meet resistance" to be very confusing.
Because it's possible to screw these in much further than the initial resistance.
I'm guessing it's pushing the rod.

So, if you back it all the way out.
And start screwing it in, you'll almost immediately get some "slight resistance" after just two or three or so turns.
But it's actually possible to keep going much further until you get to a "hard stop".
I don't think we want the hard stop.
I think we want that first, initial slight resistance.
At least, that's how I did mine.

I replaced the clutch, clutch cable and clutch lever (for an aftermarket adjustable) all at the same time.
I was able to adjust everything till I get a dime's width of slack at the clutch lever.
And the clutch starts to engage just before the halfway mark when letting out the lever.
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