05/06 Gsxr 1000 Clutch Mod DIY w/ lots of Pics

284342 Views 478 Replies 186 Participants Last post by EddieRideFast, 3 mo ago

JetSpeedz

Discussion Starter · Apr 13, 2007 (Edited)

19

Here is my DIY contribution this great site. This is the clutch mod that has been discussed in the past. Thanks to Stocky for his contributions and others.

I have the PDF also for anyone interested to download here is the link Below. 56k users this is your best OPTION. Also if it expires pm me with your email and i will send it out.

http://www.savefile.com/files/636359

Enjoy!
-Ali-:cheers

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441 - 460 of 479 Posts

thexman2008

· #441 · Dec 16, 2017

New here but can´t see anything since I don´t have 10 posts yet.

Samantha750

· #442 · Dec 16, 2017

thexman2008 said:
New here but can´t see anything since I don´t have 10 posts yet.

You don't need a post count or even be a member to view pictures unless they are uploaded with the site uploader. If you mean these:

You can thank photobucket that now charges $40.00 a month if you want to 3rd party host pictures.

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DutchGSX-R1000

· #443 · Mar 31, 2018

Hi. I bought a used K5 clutch from a racebike. Put it in my K4. Works perfectly. Shortened the standard K4 pushrod by 10mm but this was way too much. It stil works, but both adjuster are fully out.
Question: the clutch lever is heavy. As it is a roadbike, I am looking for a stock feel. I think there might be stiffer springs in it when I bought it. Does anyone have dimensions of the standard K5/K6 springs?
Springs that are in are 2,5 mm wire diameter, 55,60mm long. 10,2 windings of which 8 are active.
Thanks in advance!

DutchGSX-R1000

· #444 · Mar 31, 2018

5

some pics

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DutchGSX-R1000

· #445 · Mar 31, 2018

2

More pics

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DutchGSX-R1000

· #446 · Mar 31, 2018

The arrows show how far the springs move on the standard washers. I machined 6 stepped washers to eliminate this. K7 reverted back to the K4 design with dished washers.
One pic shows the shortening of the push rod by 10mm. NOT Recommended!

BillV

· #447 · Mar 31, 2018

^This doesn't answer your question but is semi related. Tillerpilot/Vanzuki makes the "stepped" washers from 7075 aluminum to stop the movement. He has pics here showing how the springs have moved so far as to rub on the pressure plate bores. K5 & K7 use the same springs and pressure plate but K7 uses the same dished washers as K4. This seems to mean that the post height in the K7 clutch sleeve hub must be recessed by the height of the dish. Are the post ends in your K5 hub flush with the top of the hub? If not, are they higher or lower and by how much? I'd like to get similar measurements for both a K5 and a K7 hub and it appears that you have yours apart right now. I see K5 clutches on ebay that have the dished washers and I'm betting that the spring tension is wrong because of that.

GSXRISSA

· #448 · Apr 1, 2018

The k7 uses different spring bolts also, I've got a set of k7 bolts and washers however I cannot compare the height just yet as the k5 bolts are still in the bike. When I purchased them I followed the same train of thought, having the washers in there on the old bolts it would change the spring tension (all be it minor). They use the same pressure plate however, the clutch hub is different so who knows if the changes did anything to the overall spring heights...

BillV

· #449 · Apr 1, 2018

K7 (and K4) use a socket head screw instead of the hex head with captive washer in K5. That's so that the head will fit inside the dished washer. Pics suggest that the height of the dish is about the same as the screw diameter, which I think is 6 mm. That's significant relative to the spring's compressed height. So I'm betting that the K7 clutch sleeve hub is different in some way that gives the same compressed height. A 6 mm shorter post is the likely suspect.

GSXRISSA

· #450 · Apr 2, 2018

I do not think putting the k7 spring washers on k5 bolts would be so significant as the stepped bit of the washer would fit inside the spring. The difference would be the thickness of the metal in the k7 washer.

I hope there isn't such a significant difference in the hub. So I can put the k7 bolts/washers in the k5 hub without changing the installed spring heights.

I'll find out for sure when the clutch in it now becomes completely unbearable.

BillV

· #451 · Apr 3, 2018

Here's why I think the dished washer shouldn't be used on K5/K6. I couldn't find a Suzuki clutch cross section but this Honda is reasonably close. The K5 style clutch bolt is on the left and the dished washer style on the right. The dished washer causes the spring to be longer by the depth of the dish, which would result in lower tension.

One way to correct this is to reduce the height of the mounting post by the amount of the depth of the dish. But that would require machining the clutch sleeve hub.

Note that the Honda has a flat washer seat with a concave clutch plate washer as is installed here. The cross section provides a useful perspective. I wish that such a drawing was available for the Suzuki clutch but there were very few such drawings of any clutches.

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GSXRISSA

· #452 · Apr 3, 2018

I could possibly shorten the bolt itself, this could net the same result. If I get the thing apart and realise the k7 bolts are significantly longer than the k5 bolts I will just run the k7 washers on the k5 bolts. I don't believe the washers would add more than 1mm additional preload, I am running factory springs so it may not be so bad.

irelandgsxr1000k6

· #453 · May 26, 2018

great thread, I wish I joined years ago, defo would have helped with my old oild cooled gsxr11 problems

Dennis Mollet

· #454 · Aug 6, 2018

Great post, thank you so much for this mod! I bought my gsxr1000 K5, two years ago and was suffering the same problem on launch.
Went to see several repair shops, tey took my money but without any result!

Executed this mod last week and now finally my bike rides how it was supposed to! Even for me as a nog mechanic i was able to follow all the instructions! Thanks a million time!

Best regards from the Netherlands!

57x

· #455 · Aug 8, 2018

Great post. I just put in an 05 clutch in my 01, adding this mod. Well written. The only thing I could not find was the desired stack height for the frictions and steels. I put in a new Suzuki clutch kit with all new frictions and steels, so I did not know which of the three thickness steels I should use on the last one. I found the desired height is 1.915" in another thread, so I am hoping that is the target. I was able to get quite close.

BillV

· #456 · Aug 9, 2018

Where did you get that stack height? I can't find any mention of it in the service manual, including other years. Page 3-96 mentions the use of different width outermost driven plates but I don't see any mention of what determines the thickness to be used. Either I'm missing something or the manual needs to be beefed up there.

I've seen 48.18 measured on a K8, 49mm +/- .2mm mentioned, and "Factory specs are 1.885"-1.890" (47.88mm-48.06mm)" for K1-K4. But I can't find any statement by Suzuki.

The clutch mod instructions assume that you have a properly functioning stack and just instruct you on the removal & reinstallation of it. It could also use some beefing up on checking the stack height (or whatever else is appropriate) during reinstallation.

57x

· #457 · Aug 17, 2018

BillV said:
Where did you get that stack height? I can't find any mention of it in the service manual, including other years. Page 3-96 mentions the use of different width outermost driven plates but I don't see any mention of what determines the thickness to be used. Either I'm missing something or the manual needs to be beefed up there.

I've seen 48.18 measured on a K8, 49mm +/- .2mm mentioned, and "Factory specs are 1.885"-1.890" (47.88mm-48.06mm)" for K1-K4. But I can't find any statement by Suzuki.

The clutch mod instructions assume that you have a properly functioning stack and just instruct you on the removal & reinstallation of it. It could also use some beefing up on checking the stack height (or whatever else is appropriate) during reinstallation.

I found it on one of the GSXR drag racing sites, but they provided no backup for their numbers. Many people used a generic 2", but all of them were using the Brocks cover, so I discounted them. I have it all together at 1.920" and it seems to work well, but I had freshly soaked frictions and I never compressed it and remeasured, so I know some oil oozed out to bring it south of that number. I also found nothing in the 2005 manual for stack height, just only listed three thickness steels. My clutch kit came with all three clutch thicknesses.

BillV

· #458 · Aug 17, 2018

As I understand it, you should have two thicknesses for the drive (friction) plates. However of the thinner plates, eight should be one part # and one should be another (all nine with the same thickness). But there should be either one or two thicknesses for the nine driven (steel) plates. I think the Suzuki kit comes with nine 2.3 mm, one 2.0 mm, and one 2.6 mm thick driven plates, of which only nine are used.

57x

· #459 · Aug 17, 2018

BillV said:
As I understand it, you should have two thicknesses for the drive (friction) plates. However of the thinner plates, eight should be one part # and one should be another (all nine with the same thickness). But there should be either one or two thicknesses for the nine driven (steel) plates. I think the Suzuki kit comes with nine 2.3 mm, one 2.0 mm, and one 2.6 mm thick driven plates, of which only nine are used.

That is the same thing we are discussing. Which of the 2.0, 2.3 or 2.6 should you use.

Steel plates in the Kit:
Eight @2.3mm
Selection of one of three with standard Inner Diameter
- One @2.0mm
- One additional @2.3mm
- One @2.6mm

The only reason to give a selection of thicknesses is to get to a desired stack height, but that is not listed in the 2005-6 Workshop Manual that I can find. What is the desired stack height????? I used 1.920" using the 2.6mm steel, but had oil on the the frictions that I did not compress, so I am now most likely under the 1.915" that I did find on a drag race site.

If someone has what they think is the correct number, please list your source.

57x

· #460 · Aug 17, 2018

Ignore the information on inner diameter. I was thinking frictions for a minute and thought I deleted that. I guess I am too much of a newbie to edit my post.

Here it is cleaned up:

That is the same thing we are discussing. Which of the 2.0, 2.3 or 2.6 should you use.

Steel plates in the Kit:
Eight @2.3mm
Selection of one of three:
- One @2.0mm
- One additional @2.3mm
- One @2.6mm

The only reason to give a selection of thicknesses is to get to a desired stack height, but that is not listed in the 2005-6 Workshop Manual that I can find. What is the desired stack height????? I used 1.920" using the 2.6mm steel, but had oil on the the frictions that I did not compress, so I am now most likely under the 1.915" that I did find on a drag race site.

If someone has what they think is the correct number, please list your source.

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