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Excellent write up Ali.

Thanks for taking the time.

 

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I did the mod this afternoon in between watching the races. In addition to drilling the oil holes and installing the 750 washer I also installed this spring locating collars that I picked up from Tillerpilot. Apparently from the looks of the pressure plate the springs can and do dig into the walls of the plate as they wander off center.

 

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Kaz thanks for posting that.. i ordered a set from Jim just didnt get it in time... ill be putting them in next time i take it apart...

WOTGixxer tried his hand at making them out of a lenthg of titanium bar stock that he found for sale on eBay. He made them to the specs that Stocky posted up (which I assume these are as well) only to find out that the Brock's springs that he was waiting to deliver actually have a smaller inner diameter than the stock springs, I guess to keep that from wandering out far enough to hit the sides.

 

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I was hoping someone could help me out. I'm doing this clutch mod, but I see that a couple of you found or had made a special part to center the clutch springs on the bolts and keep them from being flung into the cover. I can't seem to find these anywhere. Can anyone help me out. Thanks

PM "Tillerpilot", he's the one that made mine.

 

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I just went for the first after doing all the modifications. Must say clutch feels MUCH smoother and more positive actuation. In addition, the 2 1/4 turns on the lifter pins seems to have created more slipper effect (less engine braking) than it was stock, which is cool with me. Coming down from hi-revs you get a small amount of engine braking, down low almost none.

Again, much thanks to Ali for consolidating all the info into one thread for everyone's reference.

 

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Just fix the bike and ride it, it only costs a couple bucks and 2 hours of your time. Class action lawsuits are pointless for everyone but a lawyer, lol.

Besides they addressed the problem in the K7 most likely anyway.

 

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Hmmm................I got a problem now.

My clutch appears to slip under hard acceleration now. At first I though maybe my rear tire was just breaking tractions, but in all 6 gears???

I turned out the lifter pins 2 1/4 turns as suggested. Is that not enough, should I turn them out 2.5 or 2.75 turns out.


Any suggestions? I'm going to try it at 2 3/4 turns out on the pins and see how it feels. It looks like it's just barely at 3 threads showing which sounds like what it should be close to stock, that was OK enough for me, slipping under hard acceleration definately is not.

 

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OK, twisted the lifter pins out to 2 3/4 turns out from the previous 2 1/4 turns out and that seems to have fixed the problem.

Went out and whacked the throttle hard enough to loft the front end in the first three gears and it put down the power good this time around, before it would have started to slip around 7K or so...........and it still slips fine on downshifts.

I don't know if each person's clutch will react differently than others but in my case the 2 1/4 turns out on the lifter pins was no good.

 

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I was wondering about the Long Term reliabilty of doing this mod

Does drilling 3 extra holes in the clutch basket weaken it in any way ??

What sort of mileage have people done since performing this mod ??


Appreciate any replies

Dean

You're not turning the basket into swiss cheese you're only adding 3 holes to the 3 existing ones that are there already. That middle part of the basket isn't really stressed at all and the whole thing is pressed onto a big steel gear behind it.

Look at how many holes (and the size) that are drilled into a typical aluminum sprocket. FYI, I think the K7 already has these drilled into it's basket, if anyone can confirm that???

 

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The primary thing to do is the 750 wave washer yes. The other things are just recommended to smooth the clutch action additionall through different means (i.e. greasing the cam gear, drilling addition lube holes).

 

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Just a couple of points to add, if you do the clutch mod with just the new washer and no hole drilling is it really necessary to re adjust the 3 lifter pins.?
also the friction plates have a slot cut into them i have lined all mine up the same exept for the last one is this correct (the pics in the how to look as though the slots are all over the place ) im sure you will know what i mean.
:cheers

Yes, because the new 750 washer is taller than the stock one it's replacing so you need to repostition the pins.

 

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Thank for that i understand now will adjust to 2 3/4 as you have. what about the lining up the slots on the fibre plates all lined up exept for the last one ?
and did you use any silicone to seal the gasket ?:cheers

Just take note of the order and location of the plates when taking them out and put them back in the same way. The service manual also shows you which ones to line up where.

I used hi-temp silicone RTV the same as Jetspeedz mentions in the the begining of the write-up.

 

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So far so good no grabbing pulling away and lovely nice light clutch like I remember. Under load no slipping at all either but this was err just up and down the local road.

And you won't be able to really test it until you take it up to higher RPMs where the motor is laying out some high HP/torque #'s

For me it didn't start to slip under hard acceleration until it was up arount 7-8K rpm.

As a follow-up I've not backed the pins out to a full 3 turns out, at 2 3/4 I was still able to get a slight amount of slip as it was coming up on 10K rpm

 

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Hey Ali, I'm starting to think (at least according to my own findings now), that using the the lifter pins to adjust the amount of slip you get may not the way to go.

I remember Stocky mentioning that Yoshimura offers different stiffness reaction springs and using either more or stiffer ones is the way to go to adjust the amount of slip you get. Because from what I've been seeing, using the lifter pins just ends up with the bike slipping under acceleration.

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96296&highlight=reaction

In Stocky's case he says he turned the pins out 2 1/4 turns, but in his case he's only using 2 reactions springs, the stock clutch has 3, not sure how or if this affects it.

This all is of course just according to my own findings and adjusting, so I don't know for sure.

 

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i have a question. i cant get the clutch basket out because the crank is in the way how do i move the crank?

You don't move the crank, read the directions again. You remove the bearing and spacer so the basket can move off to the side.

 

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Take a picture of what you're talking about.

 

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I traced the problem of my slipping under acceleration. While initially I think it was due to the fact that I didn't have the lifter pins turned out sufficiently I later realized it was due to not enough slack in the cable.

For some reason and I don't know why exactly, I adjusted a very small amount of slack into the cable but after riding it seems like the slack would get taken up (I might have been imagining things), but I noticed it happening, under hard acceleration it would slip.

So I reached down and turned the adjuster on the lever in some to give it some more slack on one of the longer straighter sections, then got back on it with some determination

No more slippage under throttle.......weird, but fixed now

 

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Kaz you should put it back to 2 1/4 and see how it responds

Yes, I may give that a try now and see

 

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Just did this today. Not any noticable difference, but then again my bike only has 600 miles on it. Another thing i noticed, the washer that i removed was slightly beveled. Not near as much as the replacement washer, but it was. Is this how it is? The new washer is just beveled more? Either way, bike runs great, no slipping under hard acceleration or high reving down shifts. Shit rips just like usual. Good job on the write up though, i actually found it quite a bit excessive. Ha. Thats a good thing though.

The beveling in the washer acts as a spring force on the stack, the fact that the 750 washer has a steeper bevel to it serves to reason that it exerts more spring force on the stack.....I'm guessing.

 

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did you adjust the clutch afterwards.. make sure you adjust it and check the lifter pins again.. i had to go back and play around with it a bit before i got it perfect...

+1

The 750 wave washer is taller than the stock one that it replaces, so if you put the pressure plate back on with the lifter pins in the same position as stock it is doing to react differently since the 750 washer is going to be putting more spring force on the stack.

At least that seems to be the case anyway.