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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Before anyone says anything about adjusting it I've been there done that. Problem is the bike Boggs and dies and will not rev out at ALL with the line at -c00. But if I adjust it so the line is all the way at the top the bike rides and drives fine until your winding out gears. Then it only
Loses power up top and runs pig rich down low. Adjustment at _C00 the bike won't even start. I have not put a volt meter to this yet as I don't have one that will pinch through the wires. It is awkward though if I put the line in the center with the engine off and lock it down, if I twist the throttle the line moves up as it should. But the bike will not drive. Someone may say an underlying cause. Well, this customer has brought me the bike after he has already had the Injectors cleaned, new fuel pump from Suzuki. I changed the plugs on it and checked for vaccum leaks also changed the fuel in case it was bad gas, also pulled the secondary blades to eliminate that. The bike will not rev at all unless that line is at the top. If you adjust it in the center and twist the Throttle in neutral it will only rev to 3500-4k and sit there and bounce back and fourth and eventually load up with I'm assuming fuel and kill its self.


Anyone have an idea? I'm thinking bad tps but does this fit the bill?


Here is a short vid : http://youtu.be/rtL9H-xO134
 

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If it was my daily driver, I probably would set the TPS wherever it worked best. To make it "right," off the top of my head, if I were to set the TPS on my bike, I'd first start the bike and set idle at 1300, adjusting the TPS while at idle. If I was still having problems, I'd check specks on the throttle valve and secondary trottle valve actuators and sensors and then set the TPS afterwards again. On some models like the 04-05 600, I'd pay particular attention to the STVA shorting which will not really let you set the TPS until it's fixed.

One other thought. There may be two adjustment points: the TPS itself (rotated) and a screw located on the top of the throttle body assembly. I'm not sure all models have this adjustment screw.

Curious to see how this pans out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If it was my daily driver, I probably would set the TPS wherever it worked best. To make it "right," off the top of my head, if I were to set the TPS on my bike, I'd first start the bike and set idle at 1300, adjusting the TPS while at idle. If I was still having problems, I'd check specks on the throttle valve and secondary trottle valve actuators and sensors and then set the TPS afterwards again. On some models like the 04-05 600, I'd pay particular attention to the STVA shorting which will not really let you set the TPS until it's fixed.

One other thought. There may be two adjustment points: the TPS itself (rotated) and a screw located on the top of the throttle body assembly. I'm not sure all models have this adjustment screw.

Curious to see how this pans out.
I generally do everything troubleshooting wise(as far as electrical) by the manual. The manual does say to adjust tps with the engine off. It is not my bike and I need it fixed the correct way so I can't set it to where it runs best unfortunately. However even with the tps set that way it still bogs out when giving it a full twist abruptly. If you gradually increase rpm it will rev up but again only to a certain point. If I do get it to rev to around 9k a lot of black smoke comes pouring out of the tail pipe. It's definaty getting fuel! I have taken the secondary blades out while trouble shooting this and it made no difference. Just getting stumped here at this issue
 

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Sounds like something else.

IIRC the TPS on the K1 should be able to be adjusted with the engine not running. On the K2 up to when then Suzuki changed to ISC (K7?) the fast idle was set by a mechanism off the secondaries. So with the ignition on and engine not running the bike was in fast idle mode, meaning the TPS was not at idle but fast idle.

Could be the IAP sensor (the vacuum sensor connected by a vacuum tube to the throttle bodies). Try disconnecting the electrical connector to it and take it for a ride. It will throw a FI cluster code but will run.

Could be fuel pump, but black smoke means rich, so it seems like it's getting enough fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sounds like something else.

IIRC the TPS on the K1 should be able to be adjusted with the engine not running. On the K2 up to when then Suzuki changed to ISC (K7?) the fast idle was set by a mechanism off the secondaries. So with the ignition on and engine not running the bike was in fast idle mode, meaning the TPS was not at idle but fast idle.

Could be the IAP sensor (the vacuum sensor connected by a vacuum tube to the throttle bodies). Try disconnecting the electrical connector to it and take it for a ride. It will throw a FI cluster code but will run.

Could be fuel pump, but black smoke means rich, so it seems like it's getting enough fuel.
I tried disconnecting the map sensor and it didn't change anything. I also swapped it with another one off of an 04 which is the same part number but no change. I unplugged the IAT sensor and that also had no change. I'm going to swap the ecu today with another and see if that does anything. I can't take it for a ride. As soon as I put a load on it and let out the clutch it dies instantly. The owner of the bike already swapped the fuel pump before he brought it to me.

At this point if the ecu doesn't change anything I'm going to start looking at the crank sensor and cam sensor
 

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Try the cam sensor. Mine was doing something similar to what you explain 2 years ago.
 

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There was another thread where someone was having a problem and didn't mention they had a Dynojet PC. Which it turned out to be.

If you are running a fuel controller, try bypassing it and running off the stock map. The tune will be out a little but should run pretty good if the fuel controller is the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
There was another thread where someone was having a problem and didn't mention they had a Dynojet PC. Which it turned out to be.

If you are running a fuel controller, try bypassing it and running off the stock map. The tune will be out a little but should run pretty good if the fuel controller is the problem.
Bikes bone stock. No fuel controller. Stock exhaust, I believe it may have a k&n filter though.

Anyhow. I swapped the throttle body's with another bike. Problem went away. Going to order one off eBay and be done with this. Lol
 

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Sounds like something else.

IIRC the TPS on the K1 should be able to be adjusted with the engine not running. On the K2 up to when then Suzuki changed to ISC (K7?) the fast idle was set by a mechanism off the secondaries. So with the ignition on and engine not running the bike was in fast idle mode, meaning the TPS was not at idle but fast idle.

Could be the IAP sensor (the vacuum sensor connected by a vacuum tube to the throttle bodies). Try disconnecting the electrical connector to it and take it for a ride. It will throw a FI cluster code but will run.

Could be fuel pump, but black smoke means rich, so it seems like it's getting enough fuel.
THANK YOU! My IAP didnt have a vacuum hose on it, but it dies now and the bike is idling as normal. This site is loaded with tons of great knowledge! Im beyond ecstatic.
 

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Bikes bone stock. No fuel controller. Stock exhaust, I believe it may have a k&n filter though.

Anyhow. I swapped the throttle body's with another bike. Problem went away. Going to order one off eBay and be done with this. Lol
I think I have the same problem do you know if a 750 and 1000 have the same throttle bodies? Cuz I have a 750 out in the shop
 
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