Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Edmonton AB
Motorcycle: 2014 675R, 2019 Husky TE300i, 2014 Grom. Yes, Grom, fuck you, it's fun.
Re: Trying to understand the regulator/rectifier & stator issues & options
Where to start...
Your battery is dickered. After a good charge, your battery should be WELL over 12.6V. 12.6V is the MINIMUM you should see on a serviceable battery after charge.
11.XX volts at 5k rpm is indicative of one of two things: either your stator or R/R is dickered.
Get your service manual and do the charging system tests.
1. You do NOT need to replace both stator and rectifier at once. Replace the bad component and the test the system, again, to see if everything is working properly.
2. Side-mounting the R/R is the OEM fix for their shitty decision to mount the R/R above the headers behind the rad. It is a better place for the R/R, but will not guarantee that the component will no longer fail. (These machines are 13 years old now, electrical issues abound)
3. MOSFET R/Rs are not magic fuckery. They work differently than "old school" rectifiers, but after reading some threads, I think the OEM replacement that dealers are selling are MOSFET, anyway. Disclaimer: if you ask me for the difference between the two, I may bore you to a coma.
4. Rick's has a good reputation on this site. I, however, always push people in the direction of OEM for replacement electrical... The OEM components are top notch, Suzuki just mounted the R/R in the wrong spot for a while and made an urban myth about their OEM electrical reliability.
5. No. You bought a 13 year old bike- expect issues.
"A girl phoned me and said, "Come on over. There's nobody home." I went over. Nobody was home!"