Don't get hung up on the connectors. As long as they were installed properly, it's NBD.
Don't get hung up on the 35A rating, either. All that means is that downstream, the electrical system is rated for 420 watts PER PHASE, nameplate rating
(35Ax12V=420). The rectifier converts 3 phases, so now you get up to 1260W. Nameplate ratings are often ridiculously cautious. These bikes fall under that. That 35A means that each diode can handle 35A without breaking down. You are absolutely correct that higher amps are a bad thing. Most equipment failure is due to "I-squared-R" losses, which is simply heat. Diodes are a one-way valve, so to speak, and break down with heat or explode with extremely high opposite voltage. Leaving the scienticious stuff out of it, current can only flow one way in a diode... unless "breakdown voltage" the wrong direction causes it to fail. In DC electrical system, voltage and current go in one direction, only. In an AC system that the rectifier "rectifies" to DC current, Voltage and current flow from a positive value to a negative value. The diodes prevent the negative value to pass, and so only positive voltage results.
Everything in an electrical system has a resistance. Let's pretend the diodes in the rectifier have a resistance of one ohm. "I-squared-R" loss, or heat within a component means that each diode at 35A can handle (35A^2)x 1Ω=1225W. A 50 Amp could handle (50^2)x 1Ω= 2500W So the second diode can handle more than TWICE the heat. I just threw out a 1Ω number for simplicity, but they don't have that in the open direction.
Your plug looks fucked up because of I squared R
Just so you know, a lot of people on touring bikes run heated clothing on their bike's electrical and still fall under 420 Watts.
Lastly, you need to test ALL THREE components of your charging system, now. Rules of thumb is if one item fails, the rest will often fail with it. Do a site search for your service manual and test your stator, rectifier, and battery.
EDIT- So I was dealing with rectifiers today, and I realized I erred in my explanation, here. The diodes here aren't rated 35A @12 Volts. They have a voltage and a current rating, but it is the rectifier OUTPUT rated at 35A
. The theory I explained about heat remains true, but the diodes are not rated 35A and 12V. They would be rated something else because the current is regulated AFTER it is rectified to DC.