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06 gsxr 600

2K views 29 replies 6 participants last post by  murchy 
#1 ·
Hi guys,
Just picked up an '06 600 track bike, and am after some tips to set her up.

Came with:
-clip ons
-rearsets
-yoshi trc slip-on only
-k&n air filter
-race glass
-GB racing engine covers

On my to do list so far:
-re-do ergos (lever position, clipon angle, rearset position)
-quickshifter
-fork/shock setup for weight - respring since i'm 200lb+, debating revalve as well.
-SET valve removal (if not already done, forgot to check)

Anything I've missed?

Thanks in advance!
-Tom
 
#2 ·
Track day or racing? Sounds to me like it is good to go already really. The bike will be a little soft but not overly so for track days.
 
#3 ·
if you are more than 190 or less than 160, i would simply swap spring rates. in stock form, it will be way more capable than you if you are beginning.
 
#5 ·
Technically, you can run a stock bike and still be fine as a beginner/intermediate track rider.
However, there are things that make life easier on the track. The ease of replacement parts for rear sets and clip ons for example. So do you need anything? No, not really. But, having things like suspension and brakes will help you improve your lap times and tire wear/life.

If it were me, I would upgrade to an Öhlins FPK with the right springs for your weight and source a used rear (Öhlins, Elka, K-tech, etc.) shock. An upgraded master cylinder (Brembo, Accossato, Braking, etc.) with SS lines and race pads (Ferodo, Versah, etc.) will be the more beneficial than a QS, IMO.

At the end, it's not really what you're missing, it's what you feel is necessary in order to improve your technique, lap times, body position, etc.

Get yourself a red "R" and browse the classifieds, there are some nice parts for sale right now.
 
#6 ·
I love when people think they "need" a full on superbike to ride in novice trackdays. They almost always are the people who also blame their slow times on the bike and setup, and weather as apposed to lack of technique
 
#13 ·
Thanks for all the responses guys, I've only just had time to come back and read through this.

I'm just looking to do track days for some self-improvement at this stage, though I'd love to get into racing when time/money allows.

Down here in Aus we run 4 groups at our track days (novice, slow, medium, fast), and I'm right in the 'medium' category, on some days I'm one of the faster guys in the group, on most I'm somewhere in the middle.

I don't think I need upgraded brakes at this point, I'm just not limited in that area by my kit yet - I usually brake pretty early so that I can set my speed before the corner to focus on corner entry, line and when to put the power down. I'm not trying to set any crazy lap times or anything, and I find that this approach has so far allowed me to make some significant improvements :)

So I also actually looked at a kg-lb conversion scale, and I'm around the 240lb (~110kg) mark in full gear - would having spring rates so far off have an adverse effect on my tyre wear? I like to spend money to save money, and if I just happen to get a bit of a performance upgrade all the better :p
 
#14 ·
So I also actually looked at a kg-lb conversion scale, and I'm around the 240lb (~110kg) mark in full gear - would having spring rates so far off have an adverse effect on my tyre wear? I like to spend money to save money, and if I just happen to get a bit of a performance upgrade all the better :p
i ran a full year on stock suspension at 97.6 kg WITHOUT gear and at around the pace you describe. no ill effects on tire wear. since you already have track time and you are doing well, i would seriously consider suspension work. i went from upper-medium group to competitive expert race times when i ponied-up the dough for good suspension.
 
#15 ·
I'm 250lbs, I run fast intermediate pace at track days and I still run the stock suspension with re-worked valving front and rear. The stock fork springs (1.0kg/mm) are at the limit with the preload maxed out but the sag is correct, both static and rider. My shock spring was changed to a heavier rate which escapes me right now but it wasn't a huge change. The whole setup cost less than a thousand bucks and it works great. It's a viable option. Cheers, Mike.
 
#19 ·
I guess I got lucky Joe. Both sag settings are good, it's lika a quarter turn from max preload. Not sure what the actual numbers are as I'm at work and can't check from here. But I have it written down somewhere at home.

Spring-rate not being the same between the 600 and 750? Bad assumption on my part.
 
#18 ·
i had preload maxed out and upward of 50 mm for sag when i ran OEM suspension. OE springs are .9 for front on a 600 (750s have a 1.0), i presently have 1.0 at 200 lb rider weight. that 1.0 is a rounded-up figure too.
 
#20 ·
There's just no way man. That much preload the free sag will certainly be off. Can't be done. Its just how springs work.
 
#22 ·
I'll check the numbers when I get home, I'm 99% sure it worked out.:dunno

I'll be the first to admit it if I'm wrong:thumbup
 
#21 ·
Regardless sag is majorly over emphasised most often.

I run different springs (all with similar preload) for different tracks and handling characteristics.

.90/.90 for one track. .90/.95 for most, .95/.95 on a few and even .95/1.0 at one or two.
 
#23 ·
I'm pretty sure I read a post by you that said you didn't really pay much attention to rider sag, but swore by static sag. 7-10 mm, those are the right numbers for static sag right, as long as you have the right springs?
 
#24 ·
you misunderstood

Use ratio of rider sag to free sag to determine proper spring rate.

Then preload to track setup.

Rear is 7-10mm free to 30-35mm total.

Front has a bit more free and I prefer 35-40 total IARC.

Sounds like you likely have your front wound way too tight
 
#30 ·
Haha no worries, I'm enjoying reading through it all!

The more the internet tells me about how to go fast, the faster I'll be right :phhht

But seriously, thanks for the advice guys. I'll give my local recommended suspension guy a call and chat about his options as far as price brackets go. I'd be keen if I could get a pretty substantial upgrade at around $600-900!
 
#28 ·
That rear setup will work on average. I run a little stiffer often. But for average riding it works
 
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