Originally Posted by Karns Performance
i had the ballistic but now i have a Fire Power (it has safetys in it to prevent damage and balances its own cells)
cheers mate, that's exactly what im looking for, something with an inbuilt cell balancer and anti-short circuitry
Prevent damage to what? The battery damages itself or something on the bike?
the battery, lithium batteries are extremely unstable when cells become unbalanced and can explode or catch fire, usually the cells will swell first unless its a dead short, in which case if you don't break the circuit manually it'll explode, hence the built in cell balancer and anti-short protection.
First thing's first. A 12V battery, isn't. Hundreds of years ago, the lead acid cell was created and came out to 2.1V, WITHOUT BEING CHARGED. That means, when all parts are put together, without adding more energy, the voltage was/is 2.1V. They called it a 2V cell because the name was shorter. Your motorcycle battery has six cells connected in battery, meaning in a group. Six cells in series makes 12.6V. That is the MINIMUM most "12V" lead acid batteries should read at rest. If you charge a lead acid battery, most resting voltages are OVER 13V because they have more "juice."
Lithium Ion is a newer type construction, and the cells are much smaller within. That means that they have a more narrow operating range, but hold more energy and weigh less. A Li battery has internal circuitry and protection to keep it from exploding and catching fire and are VASTLY safer and more reliable than 10 years ago. Said circuitry also stops overcharging. That being said, build, design, and quality depends on manufacturer and varies quite a lot compared to the lead acid. That design is old and simple. Depending on said manufacturer, "dead" voltage is pretty much anything less than 13.2V in Li batteries.
"12V" electrical systems are regulated to around 14.4V when the generator/alternator makes enough power to run the system. Max voltage is around 15.5 and if your bike or car holds that as a normal voltage, shit's fucked, yo.
If you want to save weight, get the lithium. If you wanna be economical, get lead.
KTM/Husky, Ducati, BMW, MV Agusta, and many other "higher end" bikes come with Li batteries as OEM.
you are 100% correct, nominal voltage vs peak voltage is significantly different, though most lead acid standard cells are 2.15v and resting voltage should be 12.9 on those cells on full charge, anything below 12.5v resting you're in need of a top up (which can be acheived on a long drive/ride), high end lead acid cells will charge up to 2.35v per cell and they should be 14.1v fully charged.
and yeah, your regulator has shit the bed if your systems holding above 14.6v and its a 12v system.
my only concern is i cant work out what type of Lithium cells are in each pack as they don't list the details or max voltage.
some do. for example earth x lists 13.2v, chances are they're utilising a different annode, probably uses graphene and silicon compound (like a HV LiPo cell does). i dont think there's a lithium battery that has a nominal voltage of 13.2v its inbetween cells, most likely that would be max charge voltage.
the main question whether either the battery will spaz out the electronics because its over volted when switched on, or the stator overcharges the lithium battery and causes issues there.
the electronics seem to be a little temperamental in this bike, would rather not be replacing a wiring harness for no reason.
all seems like its fine with everyone else running one, so im going to look for a decent brand i can get ahold of in AUS.