No need, but if you want to feel like a factory team badass you can chamfer the leading edge of the pads like so, LOL
I do it on the rear, so tire changes are easier. Getting the rear rotor into the caliper can be a bitch
If you remove the rotors, might as well have them media blasted. Better than Scotch-Brite IMHO.
Media blasting is wAY over kill, and can remove rotor material which is not ideal
I honestly dont do anything except clean the calipers, for new pads unless I am changing "type". IE going from a sintered metal to carbon.
If I am not changing type, I gradually get on them to be sure they bed in and do not hot spot. Not much more.
For new ROTORS, I always start with new pads as well, and Basically follow this. I gradually work up to full braking, while heat cycling the rotors carefully. Unfortunately it is almsot impossible to do on the track, so I end up doing it on the street next to my house
. Luckily I live in the country lol
For Track use – As above but with speeds of 80-90 Mph down to 50 Mph 2-3 times per lap for a minimum of 5 laps but moderate braking is needed rather than light or heavy gradually increasing the brake force on the last lap of 5. If Strobe marks still remain, continue the procedure for 2-3 lap or until the strobe stripes have gone and a full width pad contact is observed on both the pads and the rotors, remove the pads and inspect for 95% minimum surface contact on the rotor