Body Work How To (lots of pics) - Page 3 - Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com

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post #41 of 88 (permalink) Old 12-02-2007, 10:53 PM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimo62 View Post
Great thread.

Q: When you are doing the graphrics.....how long do you wait to tape off the freshly painted areas?

Q: What type of tape do you use to tape off for the graphics?

Q: Do you sand between coats of paint or is primer sanding the last bit of sanding for the bike?

Thanks in advace.

Ryan
A: Generally you can tape on the base coat after about an hour.

A: I recommend and use only a German made tape available here: http://innate.com/Paint/DIY/Must%20Haves.htm

Scroll down towards the bottom and look for "Fine Line Tape." I have used other brands before including the 3M Blue Fine Line and this is by far the best tape both for turning radius and adhesion. The price is also inline with the more commonly used 3M Blue Fine Line.

A: It is not necessary to sand between coats and we only sand coats on the highest dollar jobs to get the absolute best finish. If you feel the need to do this you will need to do it with a wet 600 grit paper. If you are using a base that is not a solid color you are going to NOT want to sand your final coat of base as it will disrupt the look of the flake/metallic/pearl etc. You will want to give each coat about 45 minutes in between applying them to sand them if you decide to go this route. Also DO NOT do this with your clear.

Realistically I say skip the sanding in between coats and put three or four good coats of clear down and then wet sand the clear and buff it to get out any dust or runs.
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post #42 of 88 (permalink) Old 12-02-2007, 11:03 PM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

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Originally Posted by importguy1208 View Post
Realistically I say skip the sanding in between coats and put three or four good coats of clear down and then wet sand the clear and buff it to get out any dust or runs.

Thanks for the info importguy.

When wet sanding the clear do you gradually go up in grit?
I.E 800 grit,1500 grit,2000 grit?

BTW Is a half pint enough paint to do the tail section(solo seat, rear fairing and undertail kit) of my bike and the front wheel fender?



It's my first crack at painting my bike.(just my tail section actually) So sorry for the dumbass questions. I just want to get this right.

Last edited by Kimo62; 12-04-2007 at 12:13 AM.
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post #43 of 88 (permalink) Old 12-04-2007, 10:21 AM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

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Originally Posted by Kimo62 View Post
Thanks for the info importguy.

When wet sanding the clear do you gradually go up in grit?
I.E 800 grit,1500 grit,2000 grit?

BTW Is a half pint enough paint to do the tail section(solo seat, rear fairing and undertail kit) of my bike and the front wheel fender?



It's my first crack at painting my bike.(just my tail section actually) So sorry for the dumbass questions. I just want to get this right.
Yes on the grit question. If you don't have any major dust I would say go 1,200, 1,500, 2,000 and then it should buff out like glass.

Realistically for a first time painter I would say buy a whole pint. You'll waste a lot the first time trying to get the pattern right and adjusting the air pressure the way you like it. Basically it's better to have too much than not enough.
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post #44 of 88 (permalink) Old 01-31-2008, 11:01 AM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

This is an excellent help for starting a paint job for the first time. thanks!!!!
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post #45 of 88 (permalink) Old 05-29-2008, 01:49 PM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

Great wrtie up, definetly have to try this sometime. But scared of ruining hundreds of dollars worth of fairings...

Question about dents:
I have about a half dollar sized dent on my gas tank. The dent is from the left clip on hitting the tank when downed on left side. Question is do I have to sand off all the paint on the tank? Or could I just do a localized area, then prime and take it to a paint shop for color matching?

I know when I crashed my car that then blended the paint from the front quater panels to the hood. Is this possible with the tank, only in a small local area?

will pictures of the dent help?
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post #46 of 88 (permalink) Old 05-29-2008, 03:07 PM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

Wow, awesome write. This is just what I needed since my spare tank is banged up.
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post #47 of 88 (permalink) Old 07-24-2008, 10:31 PM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

DAMN nice Job!!
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post #48 of 88 (permalink) Old 07-24-2008, 10:52 PM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

great write up guys. id give it a sticky
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post #49 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 10:54 PM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

important information for this thread would be what material to use on the plastic. the bondo will work on the sides of the plastics but not at the holes that hold them on. it will more than likely crack. my dad uses a 2 part epoxy on rubber/plastic car parts. any suggestions? also how heavy duty of a buffer do you need? it has to be high speed so what do u do about getting a hold of a $200 buffer?
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post #50 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-26-2008, 03:40 AM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

I use a $30 buffer from Harbor Freight and have no problems with it. They last about half as long as a Dewalt but without the $200 price tag so I can afford to buy seven of them before I am in deeper than just buying the "good" one.

As far as fixing plastics I usually use a plastic welding kit to repair as much as possible by melting new material into the cracks and then I like to use either an epoxy from Duramix, fiberglass matting with an epoxy resin, or a fiberglass based body filler suck as Dura-Glass or Kitty Hair for ultimate strength.

A basic soldering iron is all the plastic welder is but it comes with different types of plastic rods so it mimics metal welding. Just taking the iron and kinda smearing the plastic together in the cracks helps out quite a bit as well and then you can reinforce it from the back side with some fiberglass matting and then some dura-glass.
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post #51 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-17-2008, 03:33 PM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

What is required in buffing the clear coat? Is it necessary?
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post #52 of 88 (permalink) Old 01-13-2009, 05:38 PM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

wow, great job and perfect write
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post #53 of 88 (permalink) Old 01-16-2009, 07:34 AM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

wow nice write up.

quick question for anyone willing to answer.

i was thinking about painting the entire bike. and i wanted to know is there anyhting special i should need to know about prepping the plastics.. i am going to be using a john deere primer with a john deere blitz black paint

i've done cars before but never bikes...

any help would be gratly appreciated
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post #54 of 88 (permalink) Old 02-06-2009, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

Quote:
Originally Posted by middle.east.gixxer View Post
wow nice write up.

quick question for anyone willing to answer.

i was thinking about painting the entire bike. and i wanted to know is there anyhting special i should need to know about prepping the plastics.. i am going to be using a john deere primer with a john deere blitz black paint

i've done cars before but never bikes...

any help would be gratly appreciated
I am back from the dead!

Make sure you take all the stickers off then, I da the entire plastic with 180 and if there is any marks take care of them, then prime them.
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post #55 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009, 02:22 PM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

I could have missed it but I have search almost all the threads on painting but cant find the best way to hang/mount parts for painting.... I have painted other parts by hanging them from a wire but u will always miss the spot were the wire was... ive seen stands but they are pricey anyone have any homemade stands or other such things?
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post #56 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009, 03:21 PM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

Hope I'm not too late to join in...

I didn't see any mention of a plastic adhesion product?

When I did my last bike, I was recommended to use an adhesion product which gives the paint some flex without cracking (same as what they use for car bumpers). Normally, the paint is fine on non-flexible surfaces (i.e. petrol tank), but on plastics (and fibreglass) you should put the adhesion stuff in your paint so that when you flex the plastics your paint won't chip away.
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post #57 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-23-2009, 02:21 PM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

Great post...keep em commin....
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post #58 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-25-2009, 08:54 PM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

definately awesome and helpful.
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post #59 of 88 (permalink) Old 05-01-2009, 11:40 PM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

how much do you charge for a single color.
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post #60 of 88 (permalink) Old 06-28-2009, 12:53 AM
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Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

Great sticky!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by onoiocoko View Post
important information for this thread would be what material to use on the plastic. the bondo will work on the sides of the plastics but not at the holes that hold them on. it will more than likely crack. my dad uses a 2 part epoxy on rubber/plastic car parts. any suggestions? also how heavy duty of a buffer do you need? it has to be high speed so what do u do about getting a hold of a $200 buffer?
I dont know if your familiar with "Wurth" but they make some great adhesives for cracks and stuff.
As far as the buffer if your just gonna do it once in a great while in your garage than a cheap buffer should work just fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wmx124 View Post
What is required in buffing the clear coat? Is it necessary?
It depends if there is any dirt or imperfections in the clear and how smooth it was sprayed. Not required but looks better!!!
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