Body Work How To (lots of pics) - Page 2 - Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com

 4Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #21 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-09-2006, 08:51 AM
Amateur
 
UMGixxer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jackson, TN
Motorcycle: K5 1000
Posts: 543
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

great write up man I have a tank with two dents one on each side of the tank, is there anyway that I can pull or maybe pop those out to gain a lil more fuel capacity,
UMGixxer is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-09-2006, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
Expert
 
low.75r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: South Flordia
Motorcycle: 05 Gsx-r 750 Race Bike
Posts: 3,009
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

yes you can if you can post a pick I can direct you a lil bit better no how to do it. Also depending on where it is you use a stud welder ( a special tool that does not creat a hole) or dill a hole and use a dent puller then weld the hole up be sure there is no gas or fumes when welding
low.75r is offline  
post #23 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-10-2006, 09:51 AM
Amateur
 
UMGixxer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jackson, TN
Motorcycle: K5 1000
Posts: 543
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

i will try to get a pic up here soon
UMGixxer is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #24 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-14-2006, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
Expert
 
low.75r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: South Flordia
Motorcycle: 05 Gsx-r 750 Race Bike
Posts: 3,009
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

ok let me know
low.75r is offline  
post #25 of 88 (permalink) Old 10-21-2006, 04:44 PM
Squid
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 10
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

Skillz
GsDave05 is offline  
post #26 of 88 (permalink) Old 11-20-2006, 02:14 PM
Track Day Winner
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Virginia
Motorcycle: 2002 GSXR-750 (Track)
Posts: 30
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

That is awesome man, thanks for te class..
davistd is offline  
post #27 of 88 (permalink) Old 11-20-2006, 02:17 PM
Track Day Winner
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Virginia
Motorcycle: 2002 GSXR-750 (Track)
Posts: 30
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

Do you sand, prime then paint???
davistd is offline  
post #28 of 88 (permalink) Old 12-06-2006, 09:45 PM
Amateur
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Vancouver B.C.
Motorcycle: 90 GSXR 750 91 GSXR 1100
Posts: 345
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

great info i'm planing to paint mine soon. what would you recommend for filling gouges or heavy road rash on an abs plastic fairing.
gixxr_lvr likes this.
nightmare596 is offline  
post #29 of 88 (permalink) Old 12-27-2006, 02:22 AM
Expert
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Australia
Motorcycle: si 9
Posts: 3,097
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

Thanks for that write up - answered several questions I had and showed me a lot. Cheers Si.
si 9 is offline  
post #30 of 88 (permalink) Old 01-06-2007, 04:19 PM
!##NULL##!
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 168
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

Quote:
Originally Posted by nightmare596
great info i'm planing to paint mine soon. what would you recommend for filling gouges or heavy road rash on an abs plastic fairing.
ditto
DaZman69 is offline  
post #31 of 88 (permalink) Old 01-18-2007, 08:23 PM
Lifetime Premium
 
1BadGetOff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Middle Tennessee
Motorcycle: '06 GSX-R1000, '07 GSX-R600, '06 GSX-R750, '04 Honda ST1300, '03 Ducati 999, '07 Honda Rincon & assorted pitbikes
Posts: 27
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

You're "how to" on tank prep was very informative. Post the "paint"!!!
1BadGetOff is offline  
post #32 of 88 (permalink) Old 03-07-2007, 11:48 AM
Trackday Champion
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Motorcycle: GSX-R600 K6
Posts: 1,537
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

That's really nice stuff there, thanks for putting in the effort!

What psi do you run your compressor and paint gun at?
Plarp is offline  
post #33 of 88 (permalink) Old 06-18-2007, 03:55 PM
Squid
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 11
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

Good write up

Can i add that if you can, after using filler in a dent try and leave it for a day or so as filler can shrink. If you paint to soon over fresh filler you can get what we call in britain a shrink line appearing.
This is when the outside ring of the repair starts to show through the finished coat of paint.
Also a shrink line may not appear till a few months after painting, but when it does it always catches your eye

I myself usually paint at around 30 p.s.i Depending on what type of repair i'm doing.
Andy gsxr is offline  
post #34 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-05-2007, 11:37 AM
Provisional Novice
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 182
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

I'm going to start out by saying that for an average do-it-yourselfer this might work fine. However, I do custom paint & body for a living so there are some things I don't agree with completely. My rant is as follows.

I don't understand the point of filling the dent with duraglass when you are just going to cover it with bondo anyways. Why waste the money on the duraglass?

I also have a few points about the write-up. If you are going to prime the bondo and/or bare metal then there is no reason why you can not use 80 grit to cut those areas down quicker. Any good 2K primer will cover and fill 80 grit scratches well enough to paint over.

Additionally there is no reason to prime the entire tank unless you are trying to fill nicks and minor imperfections. The primer does not need to be wet-sanded if you are using a good brand of sandpaper and 320 grit is widely used in the automotive paint & body field to knock down the primer. No additional attention is needed after DRY 320 sanding the primer and you can blow the piece of and go straight to paint.

I also agree with Andy gsxr on the "shrink line" as this is very common on quick paint jobs. I would recommend giving the bondo a few days to do what it needs to do and then do 2-4 coats of primer over the bondo to make sure that there is no "suck-back" as we call it.

If anyone has any questions on any of this I am more than willing to help out as much as I can.
gixxr_lvr likes this.
importguy1208 is offline  
post #35 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-05-2007, 02:33 PM
Track Day Winner
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: 860 CT
Motorcycle: #4192/5000
Posts: 42
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

Quote:
Originally Posted by importguy1208 View Post
... there are some things I don't agree with completely....

Additionally there is no reason to prime the entire tank unless you are trying to fill nicks and minor imperfections. The primer does not need to be wet-sanded if you are using a good brand of sandpaper and 320 grit is widely used in the automotive paint & body field to knock down the primer. No additional attention is needed after DRY 320 sanding the primer and you can blow the piece of and go straight to paint.
+1

The best undercoat is a good topcoat. If the previous color/clear coat is in good shape (no crows or shrinking, solvent pop, etc) it's already providing the same function that a primer will accomplish. A quick scuff and you're ready to shoot.

Additionally, if you spend quality time on the prep work, a primer-sealer rather than a primer-filler (2K) provides the same finish with less sanding and ultimately less paint thickness.

Also, I skimmed this quickly and didn't notice any mention of a prep solvent. Parts should be THOROUGHLY cleaned with a wax & grease remover prior to body work- otherwise you run the risk of contaminants embedded in your parts.

But a decent writeup nonetheless. My major suggestion for those reading- If don't feel comfortable doing it on your own remember most places charge around $800 for a complete full fairing paint job.

Cheers,
StrutMotors is offline  
post #36 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-06-2007, 09:59 AM
Provisional Novice
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 182
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

Quote:
Originally Posted by StrutMotors View Post
+1

The best undercoat is a good topcoat. If the previous color/clear coat is in good shape (no crows or shrinking, solvent pop, etc) it's already providing the same function that a primer will accomplish. A quick scuff and you're ready to shoot.

Additionally, if you spend quality time on the prep work, a primer-sealer rather than a primer-filler (2K) provides the same finish with less sanding and ultimately less paint thickness.

Also, I skimmed this quickly and didn't notice any mention of a prep solvent. Parts should be THOROUGHLY cleaned with a wax & grease remover prior to body work- otherwise you run the risk of contaminants embedded in your parts.

But a decent writeup nonetheless. My major suggestion for those reading- If don't feel comfortable doing it on your own remember most places charge around $800 for a complete full fairing paint job.

Cheers,
I agree with everything this guy says. In addition to the prep solvent I would also recommend using a "tack-cloth" to remove any dust that might have landed on the piece between prep-solving the tank and the first coat of base or sealer.
importguy1208 is offline  
post #37 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-09-2007, 06:53 PM
Track Day Winner
 
trekuhl's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: ffx, VA
Motorcycle: 2K4 gsxr6, 2k5 gsxr6, 2k9 zx6r
Posts: 74
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

do you do any wet sanding or buffing of the plastics? im just learning some painting and the guy teaching me only does older cars all metal. said he doesnt think you can wet sand or buff the plastic pieces...we just sprayed another guys bike the other day and looks pretty good but slight orange peel effect...
trekuhl is offline  
post #38 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-09-2007, 07:47 PM
Provisional Novice
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 182
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

There is no problem wet sanding plastic pieces. You just need to be careful when buffing that you don't get the plastic too hot and cause the paint to lift. We do LOTS of bikes and most of them get the wet sand and buff process.
importguy1208 is offline  
post #39 of 88 (permalink) Old 09-21-2007, 10:18 PM
Track Day Winner
 
2fast4ya's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Jersey
Motorcycle: 2007 GSXR-600
Posts: 66
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

I don't need to do any body work right this min, however this is a great thread the step by step will def help someone
2fast4ya is offline  
post #40 of 88 (permalink) Old 12-01-2007, 09:17 PM
Squid
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Milton,Ontario
Motorcycle: 2003 GSXR 600
Posts: 9
Re: Body Work How To (lots of pics)

Great thread.

Q: When you are doing the graphrics.....how long do you wait to tape off the freshly painted areas?

Q: What type of tape do you use to tape off for the graphics?

Q: Do you sand between coats of paint or is primer sanding the last bit of sanding for the bike?

Thanks in advace.

Ryan
Kimo62 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome