Electrical issues! - Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
Squid
 
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Electrical issues!

2007 suzuki gsxr750. I had a bad regular rectifier which overcharged and set fire to my lithium battery. I'm having trouble getting my bike going again. I have new lead acid battery and oem r/r. Turn key on. Speedometer lights up. Killswitch to on. No exhaust control valve actuator movement or fuel pump prime. No headlights either I think but front turn signals work. I push start button anyway and everything sounds like it's working properly for starting besides the actual firing up. It just seems like it's not getting fuel. Hense why theres no fuel pump start up when kill switch it set to on. Isolated and put 12v to fuel pump indicated good pump. Isolated and put 12v to fuel pump relay, tested good as well. As for EXCVA, I eliminated that and pulled pin 30 from ECU per not actuating. Reading online i decided to just remove it. Shouldn't have anything to do with my issue at hand. From clutch side (left) to brake side (right) fuse box as understood 10A FAN. 15A SIGNAL. 10A IGNITION 10A FUEL. 10A HEAD LO. 10A HEAD HI. Best knowledge that is correct? Upon turning key on and flipping kill SW, the FUEL fuse blows everytime. Pretty sure its the fuel fuse bc speedometer stays lit when that happens. It kept blowing at first when I started working on it right after I started working on it a week ago. I put a 15A in to see. That worked for while. Now the 15A blew and continues to each time the kill sw it switched to on. I can not figure out why that fuse continues to blow or why I can not get the fuel pump working....I am thinking now that during the over charge of the battery, a positive wire was burned and is now grounding out..and the reason for the fuse to periodically blow is bc the wire might be moving on and off of whatever its grounding to with vibration and moving of the bike. Thoughts?
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 01:46 PM
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Re: Electrical issues!

Plug the hole left from where you removed pin 30 or condensation will tend to build up inside the connector and corrode the other pins.

I think that there's a label on the inside of the fuse box cover with the fuse assignments. But your list sounds correct.

Off hand, it sounds like there's a short in your wiring harness. It's going to take some digging to find it, but the FUEL fuse blowing is a big clue. Use a multimeter to look for a short to ground. You could also try removing the fuel pump relay and seeing if the FUEL fuse still blows. The problem's probably in the R/Bl lead if it does. If not, the problem's probably in the Y/R lead. You could disconnect the fuel pump and unplug the injector connectors to see what happens.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 06:06 PM
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Re: Electrical issues!

Further to the good advice from Bill, I need to caution you on your approach to fuses.

Fuses are mechanical protection. They are designed to blow so that bad current won't dicker your expensive components. Every time you replace a fuse and blow it, you subject the system to more current than it can handle and you will end up frying components.

My advice would be to leave the fuse out. Like bill said, disconnect the components he listed, but use a multimeter and gradually test each connector, in order of connection from the positive battery lead to the negative battery lead. Each connector should show a voltage from one of the pins to the negative terminal. If one does not, you know that there is a short to ground either in the harness at that node or the previous component that was connected.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 07:32 AM Thread Starter
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Good advice from you guys! I went ahead and pulled my wiring harness and dug through each wire check continuity and checking for burned, nicked wires, ect. Found nothing wrong with the harness. I replaced fuel relay, fan relay, signal relay, that also connects the orange/yellow that comes directly from the #3 fuel fuse then goes to side stand, kill, gp, and starter switches. No change. So I hooked the harness all back in and started over.

Short story, long. Lol. I found that O/Y wire was shorting to ground still. So I started unplugging everything associated with that wire. Nothing changed. Still popped that fuse. Then it hit me. I didnt check the ECU. Unplugged that, no short. So luckily/unluckily, found my problem I presume. I did a lot of research and finally found an 07 750 for $400. In the mean time, I started checking everything else. All 4 headlight bulbs were burned out. I found all 4 ignition coils to be burned out. The side stand switch didnt test good. I found all new replacements for those. Is there anything else I should test to see if it didnt burn out as well?

Main question. When my ECU finally gets here, what do I NEED to test and check on my bike before I just jump on it and go? Bc I have been going crazy during this time of absence. Lol. I am afraid I'll overlook something just so I can get out on the road.

Sorry for the long posts! Thanks for your advice in advance!
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