So I bought my new to 2001 GSXR 600 a week ago. It was not running and the previous owner couldn't get it to start. It was filithy too.
I offered him 1,200 and he said yes. Trailered it home and had it running nice that night. I check spark (good), cleaned fuel injectors, checked the fuel pump (good). Then I unplugged the Power Commander and plugged back it the OEM connection to the injectors to the ECU... she fired right to life. Tested and the 2nd gear is slipping.
Figured I should try to fix it before I lose my whole transmission.
Never pulled a Suzuki engine before so here is my play by play.
Removed rear wheel, fairings, drained oil and remove oil filter, drain coolant.
Remove the radiator and overflow reservoir
Removed airbox and exhaust
Disconnect the battery
Discconnect the fuel line from the bottom of the gas tank (it's got an auto locking system that prevents fuel from pouring out I think, because my tank was 3/4 full and no gas came out when i disconnected.
Disconnected all of the electronics (there's about 15 of these)
Disconnected the clutch cable, and throttle cables (including the choke cable).
Disconnect shifter from shift shaft
Remove cover over the front sprocket and the clutch actuator pin thing underneath the cover.
Take chain off the front sprocket (I just left the front sprocket on there but you could take it off)
Removed the engine mounting bots (4 of them). 2 of these bolts require a special castle nut tool (I had one from another bike project).
You'll also need a breaker bar to get these mounting bolts loose... at least I sure did.
PB Blaster penetrating lubricant is very helpful as well for a 14 year old bike it makes the fasteners release MUCH more easily.
The ordering which I removed the bolts which worked well was...
1 top rear through bolt (with the two castle nuts)
2 bottom rear through bolt (with the other two castle nuts)
3 front right mounting bolt
4 front left mounting bolt
Make sure you remove the black plastic internal fairing (I didn't and it cracked a bit when I pulled the last engine mounting bolt because the engine immediately started dropping when I removed this last bolt.
I did not have to pry the engine out much. It just kinda of dropped down on it's own. I had to do a bit of shifting around of things to get it away from the bike just because I didn't have a helper. If I did I would've just had them lift up the back end of the bike while I dragged the engine away.
I got the job done in a about 3.5 hours without a manual moving slowly so it wasn't so bad. Getting it back in I think will be much harder without a helper or an engine jack. So I will have to report back on that.
Note I didn't take off any of the fuel injection/throttle body stuff. It isn't necessary to take off to pull the engine out.
I did not use a shop manual and I am a very average level of weekend warrior mechanic with basic tools.
Tools you need.
8,10,12, 14 mm socket
4,5,6,8 mm hex wrenches
8,10,12,14 mm wrenches
castle nut tool Pit Bike ATV Clutch Removal Tool 110 125 140 150 160 | eBay
I used this that I had from my pit bike (it's a clutch nut removal tool which is much cheaper than others I've seen) ~$20
phillips and flathead screwdrivers
27mm and 38mm sockets for front and rear axel nuts (if I remember correctly please double check this).
A floor jack or motorcycle double rail jack would be helpful to "catch the engine once you drop it out of the frame (I used a motorcycle tire and some rubber flooring material I can in my garage and this worked fine)
front and rear stands to get bike off the ground (I only used the rear stand personally)
Just double check all of your electronics and ground connections are removed before you you drop then engine or you could risk f'n them up.
Theres also a ground connection on the engine that needs to be removed which you'll see once you get in there.
That's it hope this was helpful to someone.
If you have a question post here and I will answer best I can.