Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Baldivis, Western Australia
Motorcycle: 2005 GSXR750XK5 20th Anniv., 1990 GSXR750L Blue/White, 2005 GSXR750K5 Black/Blue, 1990 GSXR750AL Silver/Black Limited Edition 10th Aniversary of Suzuki Aust, 1989 GSXR750RK Race Bike, 1991 GSXR750M project, 1992 GSXR400N
Re: Understanding Carbs, Rebuilding Forks and 1100 Shocks!
Good job on the fork rebuild post.
Just one thing to not is that the damper rod assembly IS servicable if you are brave enough to do it as it requires drilling out the locking dimples at the bottom of the tubes and knocking it apart. that gives access to the valving shims which vary the reaction characteristics of the damper assembly and the damping rod for polishing.
What I have said on rebuilding of my USD forks which holds for the RWU forks as well - drill out the spot locks/welds/punches on the cap at the bottom of the damper assembly, strip the damper and polish the damper rod and the bush until the damper rod will slide under it's own weight at about a 20 degree angle then get out the metal polish and polish the crap out of the chrome sections of the fork legs. What you are trying to do is remove as much stiction from the fork legs and damper rods. Doing so makes the suspension work a lot easier. When you refill with oil, use a lighter oil than recommended at around a 5 or blend to get a 7.5 or 8 weight oil (500ml 5 weight plus 500ml 10 weight blended together will give you 7.5 weight). Also, go a little bit higher with oil in each leg, say 50ml. I did basically the same as all that and replaced the springs with a set from racetech matched to my weight plus the bike then set sag to my weight then put comp & rebound damping in the middle and the difference when I rode it was unbelievable.
Your post is great for photodocumenting everything done which I am too slack to do.
"I used to think all road racers were nuts. You know racing around a track at that speed." ~ Mick Doohan