I have ordered a strap, just to break into the 9's just in case my best is a 10.0...
Whats your take on straps through the axles instead of on the back of the calipers?
Technique, do you ride the clutch till the throttle is on the stop and ease off, or clutch or the way out then wind 1st out?
Use the strap properly&mount it to the caliper bolts. All my bikes have always been my daily riders so replacing a clutch after every trip to the strip gets expensive and time consuming;I never
hold the throttle WFO and slip the clutch off the line,but then again I'm out there to have fun not try and set any records. I usually get the revs up around 6-7k rpm(been awhile since I've launched a stock engine K5/6)but you have to tailor the launch rpm to your setup,the track conditions and your weight. I'm around 215-220lbs suited so it may be different for you. Regardless of launch rpm the clutch is completely out of my hand by the 60' timer.
While I'm at it, it's easy enough to put some lowering links, so looking at ordering some Brocks items.
Whats everyone's take on Swing arm extensions? I know there's some that think they are not safe, I have heard others say they are fine, been looking at GSXR 1000 Swingarm Extensions | FTD Customs
Is it worth going 12 inches over the 4-7 inch? how many link chain does each one require?
Should I just stick to the lowering for now, before even considering an extension?
If you lower the front,you gotta lower the rear as well so definitely get the adjustable rear dogbones;I use the simple 3-hole dogbones on my K5.
You'll want to adjust your rear shock,soften up the compression and tighten up the rebound damping so the bike squats on the initial launch and then becomes stiff as it rebounds to help traction/fight wheelies. Again,you'll have to find the exact settings to match your bike/weight for best performance.
I share the same feelings towards swingarm extensions as does Just_Nick;get a proper arm. Also,the longer the arm the less traction you will have launching w OEM suspension,which means you'll have to buy an expensive drag-shock if you want the bike to hook,and you'll need a sticky rear tire. But
,start off taking baby-steps so to speak. Learn to launch the bike at SWB,once you get your launch down and are consistent with your 60'&330' slap an arm on the bike and you'll really
see a drop in E.T.
About the 60' time....yeah its extremely important if you want a good E.T. but what a lot of folks don't realize (on a SWB bike) is the 330' is more important. You can have a killer 1.5 second 60' and as soon as the bike hits 13,000rpm,the front wheel heads towards the sky...and you have to chop the throttle,effectively killing that run. Practice to be aggressive on your launch but be smooth at the same time in order to get a good 330' and you'll be in the 9s no problem.
I've gone 9.50s-9.60s @142-144mph on a stock engine/SWB K5/6 with me weighing 220lbs and I'm far far far from a "jockey" lol.
And yes,I did have a badass 1070cc K5 that went high 8s in the link BillV posted but that bike was insanely hard to launch and it took a professional rider (google Tommy Micelli) to do it.
Another issue is the OEM slipper clutch. While great for trackdays and roadracing (which after all is what this bike is designed to do) it's horrible for launching. Thats why Brock designed his Clutch Mod which eliminates the slipper. Or,if you know a competent TIG weldor they can weld the OEM slipper to perform the same function as Brock's mod. I've welded all the slippers myself for all my bikes without issue.
Purchase heavy-duty clutch springs,they're a must-have item. Another tip is to use only Genuine Suzuki OEM clutch fibers/steels
That should get you moving in the right direction;if you have any other questions post 'em up [IMG class=inlineimg]/forums/images/smilies/smiley_wink.gif[/IMG]