Originally posted by Bmfgsxr in Tech
I believe you cant go wrong with this layout!
as far as the key what you need to do is this:
100 Ohm Resistor, 1/2 watt, 5% tolerance: Radio Shack part 271-1108
18-20 Gauge Wire (two different colors)
I soldered all of the connections. If you would rather use connectors and
a crimping tool, you will need to have a supply on hand. I am not sure how
one would install the resistor with out a soldering iron.
Here is the legend for the various wires involved in the re-wiring:
Wire Colors and Functions (Right Handle Switch (Kill Switch)):
O/B (Orange with Black Tracer) -- Kill Switch
O/W (Orange with White Tracer) --
Wire Colors and Functions (Key Switch):
Br (Brown) - Tail Light
B/W (Black with White Tracer) - Ground
Gr (Gray) - Instrument Cluster Light and Horn
O (Orange) - Ignition
O/W (Orange with White Tracer) - Cooling Fan
O/Y (Orange with Yellow Tracer) - ECU
R (Red) - Power (+12v)
The first step is to remove the two wiring harnesses that will be
modified: the key switch and the right clip-on switch cluster. Find and
disconnect the connectors that connect these harnesses to the main wiring
harness. The key switch has two connectors along the right frame spar.
The right clip-on switch cluster has a connector just in front of the
radiator on the right side. You will have to open some zip ties and a
clamp to get the harnesses free.
To remove the key switch, you will have to take off the top triple clamp
and remove the two tamper resistant Torx bolts. I do not have the correct
Torx bits so I drilled the heads of the bolts off. To remove the right
clip-on switch cluster, you will need to disconnect the throttle cables
from the cluster.
This one is actually quite simple. Start by cutting all the wires 2" from
the main connector. Cut the Br and Gr wires at the connector so they are
slightly recessed since they will not be used. Cut the O/Y and B/W wires
to 1" in length and solder a lead of the 100 Ohm resistor to each wire.
Insulate the wires and resistor with Electrical tape to keep the O/Y and
B/W wires and resistor leads from touching. Leave the R and O wires at 2"
Right Clip-on Switch Cluster Harness Modification:
The goal here is to re-wire this harness so the circuit the kill switch
normally controls is always connected (run) and to have two wires coming
out of the harness connected to the kill switch.
In the run position, the kill switch completes a circuit between the O/B
and O/W wires. The O/W wire actually connects to the starter button and
the kill switch. A "Y" is formed about 4 inches down the wiring harness
from the switch. Cut into the sheath and find where the O/W wire forms the
"Y" and cut the O/W wire that leads to the kill switch. Cut the O/B wire
at the same point in the harness and solder it to the O/W running to the
Starter Switch. Run a pair of wires through the sheath and connect them to
the O/W and and O/B wires from the kill switch. Leave about 3" of wire
hanging out from the sheath at the connector end. Use electrical tape to
insulate all of the connections and to cover the cut in the sheath.
Take the key switch harness and right clip-on switch cluster harness
connectors and plug them into the corresponding connectors on the main
wiring harness. Look at the R and O wires coming from the key switch
harness and the two unconnected wires coming from the right clip-on switch
cluster harness. If needed, cut the appropriate amount of wire from the
right clip-on switch cluster harness to allow for an uncluttered
Unplug the key switch harness and right clip-on switch cluster harness
connectors. Connect the R wire from the key switch harness to an
unconnected wire from the right clip-on switch cluster harness. Connect
the O wire from the key switch harness to the other unconnected wire from
the right clip-on switch cluster harness. Use electrical tape to insulate
all of the connections.
Put the kill switch in the "stop" position and plug the connectors in
again. Put the kill switch in the "run" position. The bike should power on
and be ready to start. Try starting the bike. If it starts, you are just
We use the kill switch #37250-38200 from Suzuki...
It comes with a yellow/red wire and a gray wire.
First, you cut the connector and wires off the stock switch taking most of the wire with it. Usually, we leave enough pigtail on the switch to splice back together in case you return it back to stock...
Using a connector tool, remove the GRAY and BROWN wires from the connector and discard.
You need an 100ohm in line resisitor from Radio Shack. Cut the red wire from the stock connector at the junction and splice it to the YELLOW/ORANGE wire of the handlebar switch.
Take the ORANGE and ORANGE/YELLOW wires from the stock switch and twist them together and solder one end of the resistor. Solder the GRAY wire from the handlebar switch to the other end of the resistor.