i was wondering what cain and sprocket ratio to put on my bike, i am new to this anyone wan to inform me in what i should use and what the outcome would be
-1 front +2rear works nice for a little more drive and snap but needs a speedo healer to fix speedo. It reduces top speed though. Mileage will suffer a bit.
You won't gain high-speed. The bike is horsepower limited. Meaning it will likely run out of HP to push through the air before it runs out of rev/gearing.
Maybe one tooth lower on the rear? . Power is the real limiter from top speed, not so much gearing. A 600 loses no top speed with +1 or 2 on the rear, since its top speed is when power runs out. Your 750 has a touch more grunt though, so it may work. Is 140+ mph really not enough?
-1 front +2rear works nice for a little more drive and snap but needs a speedo healer to fix speedo. It reduces top speed though. Mileage will suffer a bit.
I have been very happy with this Combo. (but, I gear'd mine for the street. Where I live) You cant't pull to redline in top gear now. How do you plan to go faster? Is this a street bike?
As Joe said, you can't gain any more top speed without more power (lots more). You would need a nitrous or turbo. It's not a gearing issue, but a power issue. If you really want more top speed the easiest and most cost effective way is to just upgrade to a 1000cc bike.
If you want to study this, go to this site - it gives you your default out-of-the-box setup by year and model. It shows you what will happen when you start changing things on those sprockets. It is very accurate!
If you want to study this, go to this site - it gives you your default out-of-the-box setup by year and model. It shows you what will happen when you start changing things on those sprockets. It is very accurate!
Not as accurate as you may think. Not unless you are very very careful about parameters. Things like tire diameter, rev limit, etc make a huge difference.
It is good but too many people aren't smart enough to take it for what it is.... math. Math requires all the input numbers to be accurate... shit in=shit out.
Not as accurate as you may think. Not unless you are very very careful about parameters. Things like tire diameter, rev limit, etc make a huge difference.
It is good but too many people aren't smart enough to take it for what it is.... math. Math requires all the input numbers to be accurate... shit in=shit out.
You don't have much faith in people.
If you manage to put the simple stuff there, it really is pretty accurate.
At higher speeds you get some tire slippage, but at least up to 250 km/h it was dead on for my bike.
If you manage to put the simple stuff there, it really is pretty accurate.
At higher speeds you get some tire slippage, but at least up to 250 km/h it was dead on for my bike.
Check your theoretical top speeds, rpm, and how it changes with changes in tire size.. example 180/55 is stock but put a 180/60 on it .
A lot of it is just theoretical at the top. And tire sizes wvwm with wear or brand to brand change a lot