hey i bought my gsxr and these were already on there. I have looked it up but i still dont get what its supposed to do, and if its even setup correctly on my gsxr. About to put mx bars on and dunno what to do with them.
They turn lead into gold and are engraved with micro print telling where Hoffas body is buried.
Seriously, these bikes handle better if they are raised up front and back. I have my fork tubes flush with the triple (stock setting is 5mm sticking up) and have a 5mm shim under the stock. It made a nice difference in turn in. Some people want to go a little farther but run out of fork tube length. Hence the fork extenders.
They turn lead into gold and are engraved with micro print telling where Hoffas body is buried.
Seriously, these bikes handle better if they are raised up front and back. I have my fork tubes flush with the triple (stock setting is 5mm sticking up) and have a 5mm shim under the stock. It made a nice difference in turn in. Some people want to go a little farther but run out of fork tube lenght. Hence the fork extenders.
our bikes like the front and rear to be raised. BUT, where your cap extenders are at now serve zero purpose. they should be at least flush with the upper tripple, and a 6mm shim in the rear shock upper mount. then if you have an aftermarket shock w/adjustable ride height, crank it up. i have 6mm shims and im +10mm ride height adjusted maxed out. this bike handles feakin awesome on the track. absolutely ZERO issues.
too bad she is sold, and is coming to a race track near you next year by the new owner. wera, ccs, and a few ama races (their shooting for). droppig her off o enshaw for a SBK build next week for the new owner.
__________________ 2007 gsxr 600 track only fvck the street
our bikes like the front and rear to be raised. BUT, where your cap extenders are at now serve zero purpose. they should be at least flush with the upper tripple, and a 6mm shim in the rear shock upper mount. then if you have an aftermarket shock w/adjustable ride height, crank it up. i have 6mm shims and im +10mm ride height adjusted maxed out. this bike handles feakin awesome on the track. absolutely ZERO issues.
too bad she is sold, and is coming to a race track near you next year by the new owner. wera, ccs, and a few ama races (their shooting for). droppig her off o enshaw for a SBK build next week for the new owner.
Nothing says they "should" be anywhere near flush with the ex tenders
My bike has never been near that high in front. Not with my 20mm and extenders nor now with 25mm lengthened internally.
With extenders most I used was about half of them.
Right now my bike is flush, no extenders but internally 10mm longer as of last race. Before that it was 3mm below flush.
Op. If you are putting Mx bars on your bike I'm assuming it is not a track bike. So for you they pretty much are worthless. The bike appears to be raised about 5-7mm right now in front though.
our bikes like the front and rear to be raised. BUT, where your cap extenders are at now serve zero purpose. they should be at least flush with the upper tripple, and a 6mm shim in the rear shock upper mount. then if you have an aftermarket shock w/adjustable ride height, crank it up. i have 6mm shims and im +10mm ride height adjusted maxed out. this bike handles feakin awesome on the track. absolutely ZERO issues.
too bad she is sold, and is coming to a race track near you next year by the new owner. wera, ccs, and a few ama races (their shooting for). droppig her off o enshaw for a SBK build next week for the new owner.
Nothing says they "should" be anywhere near flush with the ex tenders
My bike has never been near that high in front. Not with my 20mm and extenders nor now with 25mm lengthened internally.
With extenders most I used was about half of them.
Right now my bike is flush, no extenders but internally 10mm longer as of last race. Before that it was 3mm below flush.
Op. If you are putting Mx bars on your bike I'm assuming it is not a track bike. So for you they pretty much are worthless. The bike appears to be raised about 5-7mm right now in front though.
cool ya i have decided not to go streetfighter. lol.
im purchasing clipons now
to each their own i guess. i do know for 100% certainty that with my forks caps flush with my ohlins 20mm FPK kit, my elka tipple clicker rear shock shimmed 6mm + fully raised (+10mm), this bike handles absolutely perfectly on the track.
to each their own i guess. i do know for 100% certainty that with my forks caps flush with my ohlins 20mm FPK kit, my elka tipple clicker rear shock shimmed 6mm + fully raised (+10mm), this bike handles absolutely perfectly on the track.
There is no such thing as a setup that is perfect for "track".
Now that I am on a computer, I am not saying your setup doesnt work, or at least well enough for you.
Point was you said he "should" be where you are. That simply is not the case.
Example being my bike right now is 13mm taller in rear, and only about 10mm in front. YOUR bike is 16mm rear and 25mm. If I tried to ride your bike as it is set up right now, at my pace, at barber motorsports part... and assuming the springs and damping were right for my weight... Your bike would not hold a line over the T4 crest over the T5 crest, and over the T13 crest.
How do I know this? My bike at the start of my last race there was 3mm taller in front, and 2mm shorter in the rear. That puts me a lot closer to a similar rake and trail to you. It simply didnt work. But that setup DID work well at another track.
I change my setup by several MM and my damping, and even my springs, for nearly every track I go to.
Point is, there are some generalizations for this bike. It likes to be taller on both ends. But how much depends on a LOT of things; track, pace, weather, tires, tire sizes, riding style and a bunch of other shit. Saying anyone "should" have any given geometry is foolish.
thats not what i was saying MJ. i was making a recomendation as to what MOST of us are using and what works. and you cant argue what works for me on my bike, as its tried and true for me and it was thebest set-up bike ive ridden in the past 10 years. i did alot of research on it, i then bought it, installed it, set it up, then rode the shit of it on the track and had zero issues. cant argue with that huh? lol
And Yes. I can argue. Sure it handles good enough. Better than any bike you have ridden before. blah blah. But there is absolutely no such thing as a bike that handles "100 percent perfect" on every track for every situation.
If you are not fast enough or dont know enough to notice it is not perfect is moot. Saying it is "perfect" is just incorrect . What it is is good enough for you. Nothing wrong with that. Just call it what it is, and know that your setup likely can be better in a lot of situations, and may not work for everyone.
. What it is is good enough for you. Nothing wrong with that. Just call it what it is, and know that your setup likely can be better in a lot of situations, and may not work for everyone. 
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