Tested regulator regulator's diodes using multimeter, not many of the ohmic values matched the table.
Tested alternator A/C output at 5000 rpm, not getting any reading.
Tested alternator stator resistances, all read as specified (0.2 Ohms).
Half functioning regulator may explain small amount of charging (reads 12.2 at battery, battery when engine is off at 11.8v)
However, not sure why I don't get any A/C readings. Regulator was replaced in August by a garage. Reluctant to replace again if there's an existing problem. Also reluctant to replace generator.
Are there any other tests or commonly known faults I should look out for?
At 5000rpm it reads 12.2
I get no A/C output from the alternator.
Can someone confirm the test for that with me please?
12.2 DC I assume you mean?
you understand that one is AC and the other DC, correct? The 12.2 DC that you would be reading is just battery voltage. If you have no AC directly off the alternator then that's where you need to be looking. Just make sure you're checking in AC.
Cant get an a/c reading off the the 3 yellow wires though... i am connect the red probe to one wellow then the black probe to another, is this correct?
as said in the first post, alternator resistance on all three yellow wires is in spec (0.2), if they were fried... surely it would give an infinite resistance reading???
as said in the first post, alternator resistance on all three yellow wires is in spec (0.2), if they were fried... surely it would give an infinite resistance reading???
If they burnt open, then yes you would get infinite (open circuit). If the insulation broke down and the windings are touching then you could get a dead short (resistance 0). The winding can also short to ground (that check is in the manual also)
It sounds like you have the voltage check correct. Check each yellow wire to ground (should be open). If that is OK then pull the cover and take a look. I don't think it has been a problem with the GSXRs but some other suzukis have had the magnets come loose.
Sorry to bring this up again. . . Haven't been able to look at the bike for various reasons so only just opened it up. The coils and magnets look okay I think... Seen some videos/photos where a few coils are burnt, but mine aren't. Could I have some hint as to what I'm looking for? Thanks. Also would a photo help?
Are you sure you did the stator running test correctly? The meter leads plugged in correctly, meter set on AC (not DC) and you check all three pairs of wires?
I question this because it seems like you have some charging going on which means there must be some output from the stator.
Second, 11.8 volts at the battery with the engine off is a DEAD battery. 12.2 volts is an almost dead battery (45% charged).
For testing (and a happy bike), you really need to start with a good, charged battery.
If you have .02 to 1.0 ohm across all three pairs of yellow wires to the stator and there is no continuity between any of the three yellow wires and ground (the engine case) and the magnets are still intact, you will have output from the stator.
The stator winding resistance test is only good for checking for open circuit connections.
The AC no load test is the correct one to use to determine stator output.
Sounds like you have no output at all from the stator. If all the phases measure low DC resistance the stator most likely has short turns on virtually all of the phases and poles.
That is you have a fried stator. A visual inspection of the stator is required.
Yes, I did the tests correctly.
Ok what should I be looking for when I visually inspect the stator? I had a look but it looked fine... I'll do all the tests again once the battery is charged, but I'm sure I did them correctly.
If the stator windings looks black or charcoal then they have over heated and will have shorted turns. If they look good make sure your meter works correctly on AC waveforms that are not mains voltage frequency, i.e 50 or 60Hz. Do a test on another good working bike to check the meter is working correctly.
A shorted turn acts as a short circuit to the magnetic field, so it only takes one shorted turn on a pole to give no output from that pole. There are 6 poles to a phase and 3 phases, so 18 poles all up on the stator. I think the earlier GSXRs may have had 3x5poles.
If the resistances are correct on your stator, it makes no sense that you are getting zero volts on all three legs at 5000 rpm.
Make sure you have your meter set correctly to measure AC volts. Check this by putting the probes into a wall receptacle in your house. You should see 110 to 120 volts. If not, something is wrong at the meter.
Last edited by QuietRider; 01-15-2013 at 06:13 PM.
I fixed the issue I just wanted to make sure that was the issue. I rode on it for two month before noticing that I had a problem with it. The reason I realize that there was a problem is my HID didn't work and when I changed them to regular bulbs every time I rev the bike the bulb would get brighter and I would let go and the bulb would go dimmer. Thank god nothing else messed up. Yes the battery fried and I had to buy a new one, thats when I tested the voltage.
Okay. Put it all back and it's charging now. Works fine.... HOWEVER I wonder what's causing it to fry the regulator? It's the third regulator since August now.
Last time it lasted a few months and then just died. I'm selling it soon and don't want to sell it "broken". What could be causing it?
Linear Mode
