It`s getting cold and i have parked the 750 for repairs/maintenance, one of the things on my to do list are to change both the front/rear sprocket as well as the chain.
My question is how do i figure out what combo is best for me? I`m looking to put more pep into the 750 and try and get a bit more acceleration out of it. Not really interested in a stock replacement and Im kind of new to working on bikes so sorry if this is something that has been covered, i didn't get the exact answer that i wanted from google.
I`m just not sure what tooth to get for front and rear or what chain i need for stock swing arm length, i been trolling around the vortex site since thats the most common sprocket that i see. The bike still has the original chain and sprockets from the factory but the rear and chain look like i'm WELL overdue for a replacement. Previous owner was terrible at maintaining the bike.
I see alot of + this minus that but i don`t understand whats best for my riding conditions, thats what i mostly want to know. Also drive train ware etc? i don`t do very much highway riding but would like to not have issues with rpm when i do while still adding a noticeable difference in the bikes accel. I would have to say the that the bike is about 80% country/mountain roads then the rest is city.
Motorcycle: 2009 GSXR 1000, 2006 Busa-sold, 2006 cbr 600- sold
Posts: 183
To get more acceleration, you'll want to either go smaller on the front or bigger on the rear.Obviously the smaller u go on the front or bigger on the rear, the more acceleration you'll gain. However, you will be losing top end and revving a little higher.
One tooth smaller on the front is equivalent to going up 2.5 teeth on the rear I believe.
I've done -1 on the front before and it made a hell of a difference in my opinion. I think I'm going to do -1 front/+1 rear this time
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__________________ 2009 GSXR1000- Two Bros CF M2 Vortex frame sliders and swingarm spools Hotbodies screen Gixxerboys fender eliminator....
AH see thats exactly what i needed to hear. How much of a difference would the -1/+1 make on highway driving? would it still be decent for longer rides? i want to get the most i can out of the acceleration while still being able to take it for a 4 hour round trip ride to my parents and back now and then.
Im not to concerned with top end, the bike has hardly seen high end MPH since i`ve owned it. Not to interested in drag racing and i'm not to keen on the idea of 140+ speeds on public roads.
Also wondering how do i figure out chain length or is it one of those things where i just add or subtract links?
Most people think their gonna change their world with a conversion setup >> its cool bro don't get me wrong >> but good things come out of sticking with stock as well (hear me out).. If u get a +2, bring the wheel back leaving urself about half an inch, cut the chain to size, u'll have acceleration.. U can do a -1 also (same concept) or push it to the 2nd level which is a -1 +1.. Which is def much more acceleration like my man above just said..
But in my honest opinion (u may not wanna go nuts) for that chain & sprocket setup, again just an opinion, cause u'll be saving money by not spending $180 for the setup,, + an additional amount for a speedo healer, which is necessary to re-correct your odometer reading, when you change from a stock setup.. Not to mention, ull save gas, ur chain will last longer, & you'll be spending $80 for a complete volar stock set on ebay, rather then $280 for all the above.
If you could care less then do what you wish, just covering all aspects for you so u don't close out full understanding, but the best way to get acceleration is to list ur 750 on ebay, & buy a Gsxr 1000 bro.. Cause at the end of the day it ain't really worth it, according to your wants vs needs.
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Appreciate the info, im learning new things here which is what i was going for and i also wholeheartedly understand what your getting at when you say good things come from staying stock. Only draw back is i`m very attached to my SRAD i`de hate to let it go i really would. Friends of mine are always insisting i should let it go for a newer/higher cc bike but i just can`t part ways with it....although i have been staring down older gen water cooled 1100`s (friends seem to hate that idea, but screw them)
I honestly don`t need much more out of the bike but wanted to explore my options as well as the pros and cons, in the end i could very well leave it as it sits and just enjoy it it for what it is. I have to stress that it needs to stay reliable and practical for day to day driving since i do in fact use it as my primary transportation. If i did do the sprocket it wouldn`t be any more than either -1 in the front or just +1 in the rear however not BOTH....but i`m at a cross roads where i have to decide whether or not the sprocket is even worth doing. I`de rather stick to the bike i already have...it`s started to feel like one of the family (if that make any sense or just comes off weird?)
Armi would be a good person to talk to he uses a similar setup to what you are looking at. The only advice I would give is a good branded chain will last longer with fewer adjustments over its life. I have a DiD kit on my rs been on three years only needed adjusting once.
Most people think their gonna change their world with a conversion setup >> its cool bro don't get me wrong >> but good things come out of sticking with stock as well (hear me out).. If u get a +2, bring the wheel back leaving urself about half an inch, cut the chain to size, u'll have acceleration.. U can do a -1 also (same concept) or push it to the 2nd level which is a -1 +1.. Which is def much more acceleration like my man above just said..
But in my honest opinion (u may not wanna go nuts) for that chain & sprocket setup, again just an opinion, cause u'll be saving money by not spending $180 for the setup,, + an additional amount for a speedo healer, which is necessary to re-correct your odometer reading, when you change from a stock setup.. Not to mention, ull save gas, ur chain will last longer, & you'll be spending $80 for a complete volar stock set on ebay, rather then $280 for all the above.
If you could care less then do what you wish, just covering all aspects for you so u don't close out full understanding, but the best way to get acceleration is to list ur 750 on ebay, & buy a Gsxr 1000 bro.. Cause at the end of the day it ain't really worth it, according to your wants vs needs.
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I.M.O. the 750 benefits a bit less from gearing changes than does the 600.
With the 750 having more bottom end and the 600 being rather anemic, the 750 can run stock gearing all day long.
Of course...it's all objective (or is it subjective as I can never get that right?) as everyone has an opinion on what's right for them.
Gearing changes are more track oriented as often times tracks require you to re-gear to get the most from your machine.
Riding style factors in with highway riding benefiting most from stock gearing and perhaps tight canyon carving benefiting more from gearing changes.
Again...all objective/subjective
One thing IS certain though...using/choosing cheap chains & sprockets will almost always come back to bite you with frequent adjustments, premature wear and sometimes a broken chain and grenaded cases/water pump.
i`de hate to let it go i really would. Friends of mine are always insisting i should let it go for a newer/higher cc bike but i just can`t part ways with it....although i have been staring down older gen water cooled 1100`s (friends seem to hate that idea, but screw them)
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