A friend of mine has a 05 gsxr 1000 and has turned it into a race bike. He has removed all the taillights and headlight. After that the bike started fine. Well today he cut the harness (wires) that lead to the left handlebar pod(?) Where the horn and turn signal switches are. Since then the bike wont turn over. You can hear the fuel pump, however the bike won't start up. Could this be the clutch position sensor? All the problems started after he cut the wires or harness that leads to the left side. Any ideas? When you push the start button theres nothing. No click sound. New battery as well
Thx
J
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KWS1143 Stroker: CP 3mm pistons,4mm falicon stroker crank, Carillo H beam Rods, Web cams,Ported head, Valve job, new valves,cam sproket, cam chain, Bearings,gaskets, Falicon clutch, akra evo2 exhaust, Bmc race filt,Bazzaz z-fi Qs, jsd2, Penske shock, ss lines, Pads, brembo m/c, vortex rearsets, ohlins forks spring,penske fork valves,woodcraft covers, crg mirror,gpr damper,asv/pazzo levers;205hp/103ftlbs pump/ 214hp/107ftlbs on race gas
I'm just posting this as he is too embarrassed to make a post about this. Who cares we all f... Up. So oldg should their be a reason why it won't start? I don't believe their are any wires on the left pod (that's what I'm calling it) that will stop the bike from starting; unless I'm wrong. I'm no mechanic by any means but i can do most things on a bike. However I have never had to cut any harnesses on my bikes so I'm lost on this one and highly doubt he is going to rewire 12wires. Lazy wanker lol
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KWS1143 Stroker: CP 3mm pistons,4mm falicon stroker crank, Carillo H beam Rods, Web cams,Ported head, Valve job, new valves,cam sproket, cam chain, Bearings,gaskets, Falicon clutch, akra evo2 exhaust, Bmc race filt,Bazzaz z-fi Qs, jsd2, Penske shock, ss lines, Pads, brembo m/c, vortex rearsets, ohlins forks spring,penske fork valves,woodcraft covers, crg mirror,gpr damper,asv/pazzo levers;205hp/103ftlbs pump/ 214hp/107ftlbs on race gas
K6tracjday you were right. Wired in the black and yellow and black and white wires from the clutch switch and it worked. He's happy now and vows to never cut wires again
Thx
J
Another thing to take into consideration, when the clutch switch is active some of the suzuki models actually run the neutral ignition map timing. The ECU ignores the gear position sensor. I have the yosh kit wire harness and ecu on my bike so didnt have to deal with this but its something to look into when getting rid of the clutch switch on bikes.
To clarify, you will lose hp.
Last edited by K6trackday; 11-10-2012 at 09:04 AM.
Another thing to take into consideration, when the clutch switch is active some of the suzuki models actually run the neutral ignition map timing. The ECU ignores the gear position sensor. I have the yosh kit wire harness and ecu on my bike so didnt have to deal with this but its something to look into when getting rid of the clutch switch on bikes.
To clarify, you will lose hp.
I cut the wires to my clutch switch too, is there more information on what bikes this effects or how to work around it?
His clutch switch is wired and taped already and the bike runs normal. So its back on but I removed the blinker/horn pod that holds it if that makes sense. So we did not eliminate the clutch switch just rewired it so he still has to pull in the clutch. Lazy guy.
As in the link you can either jumper out the switch and cut the wire to the ecu (lose the startup map) or wire in a relay. Note the link talks about the TL1000 so wire colors will be different bike to bike.
I cut the wires to my clutch switch too, is there more information on what bikes this effects or how to work around it?
Like they said wire in a toggle switch. Or just keep the switch and cut the other wires. That's what we did. Keep black/yellow and black/white wires. Not sure if its the same color on your bike. Then we zip tied the wires and ran electrical tape around it and bamm back in business. Well we didn't do what he wanted which is removing the switch. At least the pod harness is gone so it looks more like a race bike. I told him to keep the clutch sensor and also told him about possible power loss if you remove the clutch sensor.
That was convincing enough lol
Well off to bed for me as I have to be up in a few hrs for work
Thanks again fellas
J
__________________
KWS1143 Stroker: CP 3mm pistons,4mm falicon stroker crank, Carillo H beam Rods, Web cams,Ported head, Valve job, new valves,cam sproket, cam chain, Bearings,gaskets, Falicon clutch, akra evo2 exhaust, Bmc race filt,Bazzaz z-fi Qs, jsd2, Penske shock, ss lines, Pads, brembo m/c, vortex rearsets, ohlins forks spring,penske fork valves,woodcraft covers, crg mirror,gpr damper,asv/pazzo levers;205hp/103ftlbs pump/ 214hp/107ftlbs on race gas
Last edited by mlissa2007; 11-10-2012 at 11:30 PM.
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