Looking to upgrade my front brakes. I want to keep the price reasonable. I know I could go out and buy a brembo master cylinder but I don't want to spend that kind of cash. I am thinking a dual line braided brake lines, new pads, new levers, taking the rotors off and de glazing them with a 3m pad. And obviously bleeding the brakes. Any other suggestion? Just wanting to get more stopping power and better feel but don't want to brake the bank. Thanks
You are on the right track. Stainless brake lines and good pads are the best bang for the buck. Take a look at the Vesrah RJL pads. I have found them to have a good initial bite and nice modulation afterwards.
Do a search, but you probably need to use something a little more aggressive to de-glaze the discs. I have read that some use 160 grit paper. I've always used 320 followed with a good shot of brake cleaner.
SS lines
vesrah rjl pads
red scotch brite pad and brake clean (dont use 160 grit, WAY too agressive)
clean the caliper pistons (search for Moto Joe's thread)
I run Galfer lines and Galfer organic pads. Suck the air out with a power bleeder. The brakes are outstanding and more than acceptable for level 2 trackdays. Much better than stock.
Looking to upgrade my front brakes. I want to keep the price reasonable. I know I could go out and buy a brembo master cylinder but I don't want to spend that kind of cash. I am thinking a dual line braided brake lines, new pads, new levers, taking the rotors off and de glazing them with a 3m pad. And obviously bleeding the brakes. Any other suggestion? Just wanting to get more stopping power and better feel but don't want to brake the bank. Thanks
What bike do you have, as there are some that the stock M/C is junk.
And you're on the right path for upgrades. Lines, pads, fluid and fresh rotor surface is a good start.
If you are serious about excellent brakes then you need to strip down and clean the calipers as well. MotoJoe has a sticky on that subject on this (06/07) board.
I bought my K7 750 used and there was quite a bit of drag and a slightly stuck piston on one caliper. A complete strip down including separating caliper halves and clean fixed that completely.
I cleaned the dust seals, caliper piston bores with a tooth brush and brake cleaner. Everything was spot less clean. Used 100% silicone spray to lube the seals, seal grooves and pistons (light but complete coating - seal grooves with fine paint brush). The front wheel will spin about 5-6 times from a hard spin using my foot, even after the front brake has been applied.
I can't understate how important it is to make sure everything is spot less clean and well lubricated (so does MJ). Pushing the pistons back into the calipers, whilst they have dust on them, when changing pads is a big no no.
If you are serious about excellent brakes then you need to strip down and clean the calipers as well. MotoJoe has a sticky on that subject on this (06/07) board.
I bought my K7 750 used and there was quite a bit of drag and a slightly stuck piston on one caliper. A complete strip down including separating caliper halves and clean fixed that completely.
I cleaned the dust seals, caliper piston bores with a tooth brush and brake cleaner. Everything was spot less clean. Used 100% silicone spray to lube the seals, seal grooves and pistons (light but complete coating - seal grooves with fine paint brush). The front wheel will spin about 5-6 times from a hard spin using my foot, even after the front brake has been applied.
I can't understate how important it is to make sure everything is spot less clean and well lubricated (so does MJ). Pushing the pistons back into the calipers, whilst they have dust on them, when changing pads is a big no no.
FWIW I dont recommend using silicon spray. I recommend dry TEFLON spray, outside of the calipers. YOu dont want anything INSIDE the calipers other than brake fluid . Especially Silicon which doesnt play well with brake fluid. If it was dry by the time you put it back together, you likely are fine, but silicon is not a good idea inside brake components that DONT use DOT5 brake fluid
The Teflon spray, once dry, makes a slick teflon coating on the pistons that helps them slide easier.
OP: Dual stainless lines will help your brake feel. It really doesnt actually help with stopping power to any real extent. But SS lines are a great bang for the buck. Then use a good fluid, but no need to go overboard. Motul RBF600 is all you need. The higher end fluids are only "better" if you are able to use the extra 60 degrees of protection they offer (racetrack). Clean the calipers, and get GOOD PADS. For the street SBS makes a good sintered metal pad. I get them from MPHbikes.com. Also Performance Friction makes an awesome pad that I get along with all the other stuff I mentioned from Motomummy.com
Dont make the msitake of getting a full race pad (SBS dual carbon for example) on the street. Just because it is for racing, doesnt make it better. They dont work well at street speeds/temps. Same with some of the other pads out there.
FWIW I hate vesrahs. Personal preference, but they dont modulate for shit, and have too harsh of an initial bite.
I have stickies on cleaning the calipers, as well as bleeding the brakes in the Mods and How to section...
Yes I did recall that you don't recommend silicon. It was dry and very thin film, wiped off the excess. The pistons seem to slide real nice with that stuff. I'll have to give the teflon spray a try next rebuild.
Thanks for the advice guys. I got lines on the way, and still shopping for pads. PLUS I looked at all the links for cleaning and plan on doing that too.
. Especially Silicon which doesnt play well with brake fluid. If it was dry by the time you put it back together, you likely are fine, but silicon is not a good idea inside brake components that DONT use DOT5 brake fluid
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