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Old 10-23-2012, 08:25 PM   #1
mannyb600
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last resort before i take it into the shop

well the bikes charging system has been acting up, turned up it was the rectifier so went ahead purchased a new mosfet one for an R1 and also a new battery since it was 6 years old. bike runs fine for a couple days then just shuts off on me once i got off the throttle on the highway exit ramp. i check all connections, voltages, ohms etc everything reads fine. so to be on safe side i bypass kickstand switch so i take the bike for a 20 min ride come home and everything is good, now i turn it off and nothing it wont start back up battery is reading 9.8volts. so i say has to be the stator well i took a look at it today and would like ur opinions, is there a way that it can be bad but give all the right voltages at idle and 5k rpm also its not shorted out. i will post three pics of it i took all looks fine there are two posts the look a little more red than others but there is no black on it at all. thanks in advance.


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Old 10-23-2012, 10:08 PM   #2
drhawkinz
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Re: last resort before i take it into the shop

maybe the regulator/rectifier isn't allowing it to charge?

try doing a search for rectifier or R/R
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:14 PM   #3
berencam
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Reinstall the stator, start the engine, and check for Volts Ac. should be over 65 on all three poles @5k rpm. I would imagine your rectifier is bad, but start with the stator and go from there.
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:24 PM   #4
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Re: last resort before i take it into the shop

follow this chart. hope this helps. also remember that you don't have to take off the parts to verify if they are working. service manuals states how to do a load test on the battery, ohms test for the stator and rectifier..

the "regulator/rectifier" has two functions.. one is converting current.."rectifying" the other is regulating how much of that current charges the battery.. if any one of these goes bad.. then your R/R is toast. your battery should be between 13.5v-14.8v @ 5,000rpm

good luck on finding out your problem hope this helps. also remember that a bad ground, bad terminals, a short in any of the wiring "ie a phantom", can also cause battery voltage drain.

Troubleshooting Chart
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pd...flow_chart.pdf

Stator replacement part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=iWWYEj2MwHs

Stator replacement part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=-towvUqg3Dk
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:26 PM   #5
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Re: last resort before i take it into the shop

also when checking voltage set your mulit-meter to 20v or 50v whichever your multi-meter has..
when checking ohms set it to the lowest setting on the multi-meter.

the rectifier is an easy fix and normally when the rectifier fries out.. in turn the stator will go bad along with the battery. but not always the case.. always good to replace both if needed.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:33 PM   #6
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Re: last resort before i take it into the shop

see thats the thing guys im an electrician so i know how to use a multi meter ive done all tests starting from battery to checking the ohms for a short in the stator i get 68 volts at 5k rpm off the stator battery is also reading fine and this is a new rectifier and its also reading the right voltage, the diode test is also correct...all my connections are solid nothing loose...so my question is there anything else besides these 3 components battery, rectifier, or stator that can cause the bike not to charge?
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:05 AM   #7
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Re: last resort before i take it into the shop

check all relays fuses, check for any corrosion on any and all grounds. not just the battery.
check for any snagged wiring.. or any open wires.. wires that might have been snagged when dropping the tank down.. possibly causing a short.

as far as the charging system goes the answer is yes. these components make up our charging system.

do you have any aftermarket electric add ons?? besides the pcIII/V

anything like hid's might wanna check the connections to make sure there isn't a short there.. if you do have hids then you might also want to check the connection on the bulb itself. a lot of people complain of flickering etc.. when in reality.. ddm tuning hids work great. but certain bulbs could have been made with more care.. the connection on the hid bulbs im talking about the back of the bulb itself. is horrible.. i ended up removing the rubber grommet weather proofing the metal that contacts the bulb itself.. then adding a little solder to make a more better solid connection.

sorry for the rabbit trail.. haha

well it could also be a bad positive line. check everything.. something has to be the culprit! sucks being in a state of confusion.. hopefully you'll find out your problem soon enough!
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Old 10-24-2012, 02:12 PM   #8
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Re: last resort before i take it into the shop

well just spent the last 3 hours checking every wire on the bike and they are all fine....yes i do have HID's and there is no short there either. This is like the 6th time i check the charging system and it all shows adequate voltages. I've always been able to fix my cars myslef never have i had to take them into the shop this is driving me crazy
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:17 PM   #9
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Re: last resort before i take it into the shop

So the voltage measured across the battery is 14.0-15.5 at 5000 rpm as per the manual? I guess I missed that part somewhere.
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:38 PM   #10
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Re: last resort before i take it into the shop

voltage measured at 5,000rpm should not exceed 14.8v when tested on the battery terminal leads. if you are showing higher then 14.8 when revving up to 5,000 rpm or even when idling then your regulator is not functioning as it's suppose to regulate the current. (ie. overcharging the battery will fry the battery)

try starting the bike up and let it idle.. see where your voltage is at for the battery when idling.. then rev the bike up and see where the voltage is at 5,000 rpm

if the number on the multimeter is over 14.8v then the rectifier you purchased went bad again. if the number is below 13.0 when the bike is at 5,000 rpm then the R/R has gone out. check to see again that the rectifier you purchased didn't burn out already.. since a rectifier is nothing but a diode.. they can go bad by excessive heat alone.

If you take it to the dealer they would to the same thing..

also your bike starts up fine after all the parts were installed then mysteriously started going bad again??

I would look into the part you bought. high possibility that it could have went bad.. just pure bad luck.. if you purchase a rick's stator and mosfet type rectifier from their site. they are really good about there warranty. I understand how this little problem can be a pain in the ass and on your wallet. overall keep your head up as you will soon fix the issue in the near future!
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:40 PM   #11
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Re: last resort before i take it into the shop

also if you have a battery tender.. try hooking it up to the battery you have right now.. leave it on for a day. if it doesn't show that it's in the float condition you need a new battery. some dealerships can revive/restore the battery adding new acid or even just adding water.. depends on their assessment.. at the same time a lot of dealers won't do this since they don't make money.. and will try to sell you a new one.
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:18 PM   #12
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Re: last resort before i take it into the shop

A lot of the time when the stator goes out so does the regulator rectifier. Good rule of thumb when one goes out change them both.
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:46 PM   #13
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Re: last resort before i take it into the shop

Does the bike start after all that?

Did you check the side stand switch? If this is loose, or malfunctioning, it will cut the engine as well.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:53 PM   #14
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Re: last resort before i take it into the shop

i am having the same problem as we speak. rick's stator, shindigen mosfet rr as recommended on here,and a gel battery.now bike will start fine when cold started but after a short ride will not restart. batt still reads 12+v but when i try to restart it the voltage drops to 9v. no side stand switch(removed it). like OP stated if i roll off the throttle bike dies. then wont restart once warm. someone said it may be the starter motor could this be it?
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:09 AM   #15
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Re: last resort before i take it into the shop

so your battery is not being sufficiently charged.. do a load test.. if your battery voltage reads under 11.0 volts when the key is turned to the on position then you can start your bike.. if you rev up to 5k rpm or more.. the voltage should read approx. 13-14.8 volts..

a lot of time high temperatures can result in a rectifier/regulator failure.. as the rr is nothing more than a diode.. so you might want to do an ohm test on the rectifier wires..

follow this chart...
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pd...flow_chart.pdf
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:33 PM   #16
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Re: last resort before i take it into the shop

Quote:
Originally Posted by 6gix99 View Post
i am having the same problem as we speak. rick's stator, shindigen mosfet rr as recommended on here,and a gel battery.now bike will start fine when cold started but after a short ride will not restart. batt still reads 12+v but when i try to restart it the voltage drops to 9v. no side stand switch(removed it). like OP stated if i roll off the throttle bike dies. then wont restart once warm. someone said it may be the starter motor could this be it?
and here i thought i was the only one going thru this exact issue. if u come across anything let me know please

Last edited by mannyb600; 10-30-2012 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:47 PM   #17
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Re: last resort before i take it into the shop

bike needs a minimum of 10.3 volts when cranking to start.

lets see what the problem has to be..

1) faulty battery( too much corrosion terminals.. dead batt. bad connection in positive lead)
2) broken fuses/relays.
3) battery electrolyte solution needs replacing
4) rectifier/regulator
5) stator
6) short in any wire causing a draw from the battery
7) poor ground
8) extra electrical add ons drawing too much current


basically.. for every problem there is a solution.. might not be the cheapest or fastest.. but when you pinpoint that problem.. you will be relieved that it's over and done with.

follow the flow chart and measure each individual part with a multimeter..
if everything is working fine.. then there Should Not be a problem..

because there is a problem.. something is not functioning the way it should.

http://racetechelectric.com/files/pd...flow_chart.pdf

maybe even the parts that were purchased were just faulty from the get go.

good luck and keep us posted!
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:04 PM   #18
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Re: last resort before i take it into the shop

ive done the flow chart over 6 times everything always comes out fine thats what he me confused out of my mind!! lol
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:11 PM   #19
berencam
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Swapped your battery out with a known good battery? Also, you never answered what the voltage is on the battery at 5K rpm
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Old 10-31-2012, 04:54 PM   #20
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Re: last resort before i take it into the shop

Quote:
Originally Posted by berencam View Post
Swapped your battery out with a known good battery? Also, you never answered what the voltage is on the battery at 5K rpm
oh sorry its at 14.3v and yes its a new battery also took the battery in to get tested and battery life is at 100%
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