I'm building srad from scratch but do not want to keep the rear section. I've seen one with the k1 rear. Just wanted to know if there is any adjustments that need to be made or if it bolts right on.
does not bolt right on it is however quite easy to do, there is cutting and welding of the subframe that is the hardest part freind of mine is doing one and has his all ready to bolt on except for paint, you will need to get a complete subframe, battery tray, plastics and rear sets from the K1-K3 body style, modification of the tank bracket is required as well so it wouldnt be a bad idea to pick one up if you can find it cheap also you will need a riv-nut tool
does not bolt right on it is however quite easy to do, there is cutting and welding of the subframe that is the hardest part freind of mine is doing one and has his all ready to bolt on except for paint, you will need to get a complete subframe, battery tray, plastics and rear sets from the K1-K3 body style, modification of the tank bracket is required as well so it wouldnt be a bad idea to pick one up if you can find it cheap also you will need a riv-nut tool
Thank you. So your saying pick up the tank bracket ASAP too? I want it to look like this yeah.
does not bolt right on it is however quite easy to do, there is cutting and welding of the subframe that is the hardest part freind of mine is doing one and has his all ready to bolt on except for paint, you will need to get a complete subframe, battery tray, plastics and rear sets from the K1-K3 body style, modification of the tank bracket is required as well so it wouldnt be a bad idea to pick one up if you can find it cheap also you will need a riv-nut tool
And I've got most these parts. PM me if interested.
Why dont you jusy pick up an K1, K2, or K3 instead of tring to fit something that don`t belong! Fix the SRAD sell it and buy whay you want.
I agree, especially when sticking just the new style tail on the bike. Round front, round sides, pointy butt...
But the pic that Armi posted (I seem to recall Hamil posting some up too), it actually looks ok as the newer front matches a bit better plus having the sides the same looks great too...ignoring all the trick bits that are just
Why dont you jusy pick up an K1, K2, or K3 instead of tring to fit something that don`t belong! Fix the SRAD sell it and buy whay you want.
I'm not a fan of them models however I have a srad in the garden lying about so wanted some fun. I saw one with the rear conversion and thought why not.
i know when i put the k1 rear set on my bike it bolted up but the undertail needed a little bit of trim work for it to mount flush with the rest of the plastic. The srad ones might not angle back as far as the newer ones and be just fine good call i forgot about that
you dont have to have another tank bracket but you have to cut quite a bit off of it and if you ever decide to go back to the factory tail you cant reuse it thats y i said if you can pick one up pretty cheap its not a bad idea in case you get cut happy on yours lol ill try to post some pics of what everything looks like when ready to assemble
also if you read the sticky about the conv there are some things you can do different: depending on how much you cut off the bottom depends how high the tail angles if you wanna go for the moto GP look cut less, and on the top brackets it says to file them down but you can cut them off rotate them 180 degrees so the tabs are on the inside instead of the outside and weld them back on, i will double check everything this weekend and make sure what i am saying is correct and post pics
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If it has tits or tires it will give you problems
i know when i put the k1 rear set on my bike it bolted up but the undertail needed a little bit of trim work for it to mount flush with the rest of the plastic. The srad ones might not angle back as far as the newer ones and be just fine good call i forgot about that
Ohhh, you are talking about the rear pegs... I'm thinking about the front pegs... couldn't figure that one out, haha
follow this link the guy who did this is a structural engineer and shows the best way to do it with the subframe still being structurally sound and if you use a hayabusa shock you dont have to cut as much out of the battery tray hope this helps
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