hi guys, its been a long time since I registered in this site promising to open a restoration post. But, finally, here it is.
something about the lady:
1989 GSXR 1100 with 65.000 km in the tacho. It was a very big deal since except for a "minor" engine problem and some fairing scratches, the rest was perfectly OK. bought at a very reasonable price btw and previous owner did not suffer from falls or any other considerable damages.
It was kept lonely and still for 10 years in a room which was repainted some years ago and as you can imagine, it was plenty of dust and other paint shit.
the bike had a lot of "amateur repair" things like non original bolts and screws, duct tape, wire and other unpleasant surprises....
plans for the bike? restore it completely to how it was 24 years ago. however, there will be some mods that wont, in any case, affect original aesthetic except for something I think you will all like and it is impossible not to see which is eye catching as hell...
pics of the overhauling process. this is how I bought it...
carbs off...quite difficult to tear them appart. they were stuck somehow...
the engine weighs more than 80 kilo and had no jack to support it and pull it apart in a safe manner so the easiest way is to take the bike to the ground and pull the chasis off instead of pulling the engine.
and here comes the engine and its intestines...had to overhaul it on the floor to "eliminate" weigh of it. I finally could leave it in my desk without the cylinder head, cylinder block, alternator and starter motor in it.
this picture shows how I need this part replaced with a new one. you can see perfectly well how the cams are worn. I could hace maintained it for a bunch of miles playing with the valve screw adjuster but this is not how things are done. at least in my case
finally, ended up pulling things away and here is the chassis. fully naked
how the top yoke was...
coming back to the engine, I didnt have a valve puller (and its cost was 50 euro haha) so I made myself one out some tubes and a jack. I think you all know how this works right?
admission conducts....very clean the little bastards....
valve seals....will be replaced for new ones obviously
cylinder head totally empty of valves, seals and other nasty things...
you have to "tidy" this very good because although the valves seem identical one to each other, they are not. you must put them again in the exact position you took them off.
chamber polished....valves, pistons and chambers will be polished. not to mirror-like finish but enough to prevent them from getting as dirty as I saw them. trust me, the chambers and valves were awfully dirty. admission conducts were almost stuck. A bunch of HP mut have been lost with all that mud blocking the way...
bear grill´s cave? nooooope
lets go to the clutch now...
the picture below shows the clutch. to take it appart you must unscrew a no less tha 50 mm nut. yes, thaaaats right, its big as hell isnt it? i couldnt do it by my own so I had to take the engine to my local dealer to get this huge nut off.
before continuing, some of you may ask: Why are you completely opening the engine? well, as I explained some posts above, the engine had a "minor" problem: second gear pops out. not so bad, calm down young lads (). of course it is a big engine problem, specially when you must rely on dealers and professional mechanics to solve it out. This stuff is as important as how much you consider a 1000 dollars bill. however, when you can solve this things on your own, it turns out that transmission stuff is not a severe thing despite the fact that obligues you to invest money and time solving this out... however, now that I have the engine sliced in plenty parts, I will replace ALL parts that can be worn in a way or another. this will make this engine last 25 years without mayor problems than clutch replacements and valve adjustments.
who can tell me how you call these parts? there are not bearings and are the parts that join the conrods to the crank. obviously, this is one of those parts i told you they will be replaced for new ones. journals maybe??
lets move up to the cylinder head. as said, polished valves...
you might know for what this tool is dont you?....
cylinder head ready to be cleaned in the inside and chambers polished. the reason why I didnt polish intake and exhaust (in previous posts, you might have read "admission" somewhere. please understand it as "intake") is because it is not always desirable to perform this and the increase in performance you might get is not worth the risks you take. as read in books and manuals, you make carburation more delicate. dont forget we are talking about a bike with 154 HP to the clutch and a torque not less impressive....
intake valves seated and polished...
not bad work hmm? haha
have a told you that there was mud somewhere?? before and after.
all 16 valves placed and seats ready to be grinded. hard work this part. I though i would never end haha
to end up with the 10 pictures limit, here´s a picture I specially like
in order to check perfect valve seating out, you must put some gasoline in the combustion chamber and see if it leaks in any of the 4 valves. if it doesnt? congrats, go forward to the other 4. does leak? go back to that valve and grind it again using fine compound.
radical change. from engine to wheel bearings. they were in good condition but I got the 4 bearings for 15€. good business...
wheels cleaned.....they have to be repainted btw.
now we move on to the forks¡¡ previous owner had some Rothmans stickers on them and, in general, they had to be repainted. preparing them to go to the paint box....
and finally painted and lacquered
same procedure with footpegs...
last week I received a bunch of things from ebay. set of wheel and steering stem bearings, a kit of seals, washers and other rubbers for both calipers, fork seals and dustseals, carburetor bolt kit (havent seen so many bolts together, mother of god...) and some minor stuff.
brakes done. I painted the 8 bolts and polished the NISSIN logo. not bad result humm?
as I got the steering stem bearings, I was neeeaaarrly ready to put the stem in the frame. first, I had to do something with the tope yoke. was in awful condition. with some stickers and scratches. so.......
so, here is where i am currently. hope you enjoy this restoration as much as I am doing and.
once said this, I have a question for the wisemen of this forum:
I want to upgrade my rear shock. the shock apparently is in good working condition (the bike hasnt been ridden much) but I want to put a GSXR 1000 shock in it. I´ve heard that 1000 K7 shock is a straight bolt on or direct swap. CAN ANYONE CONFIRM THIS TO ME? will this shock touch the battery box? are there any modifications requiered to fit it into "her"? ¿any other shocks said to be a direct swap for my bike? I also heard that the Hayabusa´s shocks can be an option. ¿CONFIRMATION?
thanks a lot guys¡¡ next step I will be installing both ends and the gauges. but, first I need the fork´s bushes and metal slides, clean up the swingarm (no polish for him, thinking of changing it for a W swingarm...in the future of course.) and who knows what else....
I want to upgrade my rear shock. the shock apparently is in good working condition (the bike hasnt been ridden much) but I want to put a GSXR 1000 shock in it. I´ve heard that 1000 K7 shock is a straight bolt on or direct swap. CAN ANYONE CONFIRM THIS TO ME? will this shock touch the battery box? are there any modifications requiered to fit it into "her"? ¿any other shocks said to be a direct swap for my bike? I also heard that the Hayabusa´s shocks can be an option. ¿CONFIRMATION?
thank you very much to all you guys
First off good job so far, the 89`s are one of my favourites!
I have installed the 2008 GSX-R 1000 shock on the 89 frames, they are a direct bolt in but the battery box will require trimming.
First off good job so far, the 89`s are one of my favourites!
I have installed the 2008 GSX-R 1000 shock on the 89 frames, they are a direct bolt in but the battery box will require trimming.
I made a side mount battery tray for mine.
cheers
I wont like to realocate the battery box like you had to do. Ive seen some specs from a couple of shocks (CBR 1000 RR 2005-2006 and GSXR 1000 K6-k8) and they seem to be direct swap if you do something with the battery box. something I wont like to do unless no option.
My first choice is look up for shocks with horizontal gas container, like the gsxr 1000 K8 for instance, and forget about the ones like the CBR which has the container in an oblique way.
what about other models? not only japan´s bikes. I read something about aprilia´s RSV MILLE shock could swap to an oiler model. dont remember what model...
I wont like to realocate the battery box like you had to do. Ive seen some specs from a couple of shocks (CBR 1000 RR 2005-2006 and GSXR 1000 K6-k8) and they seem to be direct swap if you do something with the battery box. something I wont like to do unless no option.
My first choice is look up for shocks with horizontal gas container, like the gsxr 1000 K8 for instance, and forget about the ones like the CBR which has the container in an oblique way.
what about other models? not only japan´s bikes. I read something about aprilia´s RSV MILLE shock could swap to an oiler model. dont remember what model...
cheers
you need actually to move back battery tray of 6 cm (plus cut a little of plastic)
easy and fast
cheapest upgrade
GSXR 1000 2001-2002 329.5mm
GSXR 1000 2003-2004 332.5mm
GSXR 1000 2005-2006 325.5mm
GSXR 1000 2007-2008 315mm
GSXR 1000 2009 320mm (cannot be used is eye-eye instead eye fork)
GSXR 750 00-03 325 mm
GSXR 600 01-03 325mm
GSXR 600-750 04-05 332,5mm
GSXR 600-750 08-10 320 mm
GSXR 600-750 11-12 319mm ((cannot be used is eye-eye instead eye fork)
sacs 2nd gen is 315-318mm
so best option would be 1000 k7-k8
i use also 1000 k5-6 and so my rear is lifted 25-30 mm
hayabusa , srad shocks are too long shocks !
cbr 1000/600 kawsaki zx and yamaha r series are ok when you remove airbox and fit battery on frame lid
). of course it is a big engine problem, specially when you must rely on dealers and professional mechanics to solve it out. This stuff is as important as how much you consider a 1000 dollars bill. however, when you can solve this things on your own, it turns out that transmission stuff is not a severe thing despite the fact that obligues you to invest money and time solving this out... however, now that I have the engine sliced in plenty parts, I will replace ALL parts that can be worn in a way or another. this will make this engine last 25 years without mayor problems than clutch replacements and valve adjustments. 
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