Ok guys, I have a gauge user that's trippin! I recently replaced my battery and the next day my speed sensor went out. I replaced it with a used one from eBay and it worked great for about 2 days and it went out again. Now I'm noticing that my gauge cluster will flash, tac will go all the way up and the clock will reset. There is no issue with the performance of the bike what so ever. I don't have the tools to check electrical components and I wanted to get some feed back from you guys before I take it some where to get it look at. I try to do most of the work myself.
Check the fron subharness connector. It's the big ass plug under the left ram air tube. Very common for corrosion to cause electrical problems and burnt wires.
I checked that and I didn't notice any corrosion. I've removed the fairings and didn't notice any loose wires. I wiggled the wires and I can re-create the issue.
2) did you try leaving the speed sensor disconnected and checking the behavior? It should be completely isolated from the tach, but it wouldn't hurt to try.
2) did you try leaving the speed sensor disconnected and checking the behavior? It should be completely isolated from the tach, but it wouldn't hurt to try.
Thats a good idea. I didn't think of that. I'll give it a try this weekend.
I have the exact same problem, hopefully you will continue to post up your findings unlike the last few posters...
I have the same problem, one day I was riding, my tach went crazy and lost my speedo...
My front wiring harness had a shit load of corosion and grime, so I cleaned it out per geeks instructions, using coke, letting it sit, cleaning it off etc.. I used my multi meter to test the ground wire on EITHER side of the connector when plugged in and was getting a good ground...
Yet my speedo still doesnt work..
Ive swapped speedo SENSORS...ive check my front sprocket and speed sensor nut and all are fine....
The only thing I havent done is swap my cluster. Im beginning to think it might be the front wiring harness that goes into the cluster to the front harness connector..either a pinched wire or the harness has some how taken a shiet.
What wires did you wiggle to recreate the problem?
I know it sounds like a complete pain, but you can remove the entire nose of the bike with just a couple bolts and have it in your lap. Then do a continuity test for each wire in the dash plug back to the connector. Shouldn't take more than an hour tops.
If it were me, and the above doesn't reveal any problems, I'd start working on the bike side of the harness with end to end tests as well. It's possible that a voltage problem fried the cluster, but I think it's more likely for a loose connection at the ECU plug.
I'm very skilled at it, but I hate electrical. The only way to find the problem is by elimination and it's teadious and frustrating. Get a wiring diagram and go segment by segment.
__________________ Never mistake education for intelligence.
"Don't go ninjain nobody that don't need ninjain" - Diemon Dave
Im very comfy taking the bike apart ive had it about 7 years now and worked on it plenty.. but electrical aint my thang for sure.. dont have the patience.. lol..
You say end to end tests... do you mean from the bike side of the wiring harness tooo......?? the ecu? Or component by component...
I will give that a try and see what happens when I get some free time! Thank you!
End to end wiring tests. For example, from the main connector on the harness to the connector on the dash. Your black lead at the main connector and the red lead at the dash connector with the meter set to Ohms. Match by wire color. So the Bl/B wire at the main and the Bl/B (neutral light). It's a solid wire and should have extremely low resistance. All you're checking for is a high resistance one wire at a time. I'd say anything above 5 Ohms is going to be an indicator of a problem.
The dash is a digital device. Digital circuits are very voltage sensitive. The voltage comming from the ECU to the dash are only 5V signals. Add some resistance to that wire and that 5V quickly drops. Anything below 3V and you're going to have dead circuits. It's why corrosion in that connector is such a problem. Corroded connectors have high resistance. If that happens on the 12V high current lines for the headlights, you'll get tons of heat and actually burn insulation and melt connectors.
__________________ Never mistake education for intelligence.
"Don't go ninjain nobody that don't need ninjain" - Diemon Dave
After taking a 2nd look I finally found the problem. There's a little white box with a black top that was burned. I pulled the pin out of the box and cleaned it up a little and put it back in and now everything work. What in the heck is that white box for? Hope this helps someone.
white box with a black top? can you take a pic? I am thinking the front harness connector on the left side of the bike? It has a black rubber sheath that goes around it?... was it a black wire? Did you replace the speed sensor or the gauges?
It looks like somebody's been fucking with the wiring, unless it's the OP that stripped the wrap off the wires and separated them out. If that's how it was when you pulled the wiring out - then I think you found your problem.
I have the same problem. I've changed speed rotor, speed sensor, and even tried new front harness an speed still won't display. Next is a new cluster. Does anyone know what else it could be.
Linear Mode
