I guess simply put...what are the mechanics involved....I'm thinking of messing with my clutch because I don't think they are adjusted properly....it's hard to get the bike into neutral, and when I push the clutch all the way in with my hand the bike still feels like it's slightly still engaged. [img]images/icons/shocked.gif[/img]
The clutch is not a totally complicated thing. It consists of clutch plates, clutch fibers, hub, basket and spring(s). When compressed it works as a solid link from the engine to transmission. When you pull in the clutch lever it removes the pressure on the plates and fibers. It now allows the clutch basket with the fibers to spend freely around the hub and coresponding clutch plates. If the hub or basket is worn the plates and fibers may not be able to move freely apart, causing drag and making it hard to shift into neutral.
I'll try.There is an outer "basket" with slots in the side which the friction plates fit into.There is another which fits inside the plates which the steel drive plates fit into.The plates are stacked fibre-steel-fibre-steel ect.On the outside end there is a diaphram or springs that push on an endplate that pushes the plates against each other.The clutch releases by pushing this end plate out taking the spring load off the plates allowing them to turn freely.
I hope this helps, it's real hard to explain without pictures.
if the clutch does disengadge all the way, check the slack at the lever and check that the cable is in good shape... These are both VERY common problems that people over look. You shouldnt have to much to worry about in the clutch itself. There is nothing there that you can adjust.
Did you buy the bike used? If so they may have put a heavy duty spring in it and that might be the problem...
I took of the housing where the clutch cables runs ( same place where the front sprocket is...I found my shoe lace that was ripped off my boot tangled in the front sproket so I unwound it and tried to make an adjustment to my cluth cable, and lubed it up a bot with WD40...now I can get in neutral by reving the engine just a bit before I stop. I'll probabl;y perform the same procedure next week and eventually change the cable all together. Thanks guys for the replies...keep em rollin - J [img]images/icons/rolleyes.gif[/img]
Ahhh, the ol' SHOELACE caught in Sprocket Cover problem [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
At traffic lights, i usually just roll the bike forward or backward while shifting up from 1st, and it'll slip into Neutral.
Gets better when engine oil and clutch is warmed up. Almost impossible to shift into neutral while stationary in the first 5 mins from a cold start.
Originally posted by KaTz: Ahhh, the ol' SHOELACE caught in Sprocket Cover problem [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
At traffic lights, i usually just roll the bike forward or backward while shifting up from 1st, and it'll slip into Neutral.
Gets better when engine oil and clutch is warmed up. Almost impossible to shift into neutral while stationary in the first 5 mins from a cold start.
KaTz
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Katz, Have you check out your clutch basket? Or maybe the oiler jet for your clutch. It shouldnt be THAT bad even cold.. [img]images/icons/frown.gif[/img]
Jay
You may need adjust the clutch pushrod. First take of the lhs faring and then undo the 2 setscrews that hold the coolant res. to the frame (get a mate to hold it for a minite) screw the adjuster on the clutch lever in so there is loads of cable free play and then locate the rubber gromment that covers the pushrod adjuster(its about 30mm dia and located under the coolant res)
There is a 10mm locknut and a flatblade screwdriver slot carfully loosen the locknut and screw the screw in untill you feel a resistance back the screw off 1/4 of a turn and lock up the lock nut, adjust the cable to give about 10-15mm of play at the lever.
Katz, Have you check out your clutch basket? Or maybe the oiler jet for your clutch. It shouldnt be THAT bad even cold.. [img]images/icons/frown.gif[/img]
John
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Cheers for the advice John, but it's not as big a problem as it sounds.
Plus, i used 15-50W oil instead of recommended 10-40W [Cant find the latter here in Oz, and our temps are relatively warm in Sydney, all yr round]
It goes into Neutral smoothly after the bike warms up in the first 5mins or so. [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img] Ive gotten used to it, like the initial cam chain rattle as it expands to optimal size.
Linear Mode
