Have been very happy with the performance since cutting and gutting the RS-3, I have a trickfuel nearby with 101 from the pump that makes the throttle response very snappy with the open can.
32k miles and still sports 123.7hp at the wheel thanks to dynojet tuning by nels.
But I have grown tired of the screaming decibels around town and began to plot maybe replacing the ss slip on with a cf.
Then I remembered seeing a late model gixxer1000 with a yoshi that had duel tips on the can. Was the most incredible sounding exhaust note I ever heard on a streetbike. So a call to yoshi R&D and here comes the TRI titanium slip on. Very excited to hear it and see what happens on the dyno after a quick re-map.
Will update with video soon....
Nice bike. Im likeing that Yoshi exh a sound system I bet your neighbours are envious of. I would wager that breaks the sound rule at the track.
I would remove all the stickers other than the standard GSXR set your bike doesnt need it. The trick stands out without advertising it.
My first Srad was the exact same colours (nicest in my oppion) USA import,
The Tri-Oval sounds great on the SRAD 750. I had one mounted to a friends bike. Full custom order from Yosh. It was the Full Ti (header, mid pipe and can) Tri-Oval duplex system. Great sound.
But you do understand that cutting 5" off the can and gutting the baffle out will dick with your power, right? Not to mention the sound on the bike. Longer can with a baffle will likely lower the tone a bit on the bike as well.
Bike was mapped and dyno'd on trick 101 with the chopped and baffless RS-3,
the top novice guy at my local track Pacific Raceway on a 07 GSXR 750 dyno's @ 124 rwhp
this setup on my bike runs @ 123.7 rwhp.....
Below is a picture I found on a Euro site of a GSXR6002K8 with a 11" TRI which is what I would have preferred. The TRI I'm working with I ordered direct from Yoshimura's website and they only offer a 18.5" 2 1/4" inlet replacement muffler, and It's kinda weighty (makes sense its for GSXR1000 or Busa). That put my fabrication skills to test making a sleeve to go from 2" SS midpipe to the 2 1/4" inlet in order to provide the support and stability needed since the hanger sits too far foward. This is a temp sleeve just to see how the remap/dyno run goes. If it performs as anticipated I will remove the sleeve and flare the midpipe to 2 1/4" for permanent use. I went after this muffler because I saw and heard it on a GSXR1000 one day. When I started looking for it online I found its name on the Yoshimura site, TRI, if I would have googled "yoshimura TRI GSXR" I would have found the shorter can thats only offered in Japan and the UK and ordered it from one of the Euro sites. So a mental note for everyone: take a little extra time researching and be creative with google search queries, you dont always have to be limited to US ebay and US sportbike websites.
The final answer:
My local SS expert welder cut off the 2 1/4" inlet on the new TRI muffler, cut off the 2" inlet on the old RS-3, stuffed the 2" inlet inside the 2 1/4" inlet and put a bead around it, something so simple yet so difficult to accomplish until I had the right man for the job handle it.
The TRI muffler sounds fantastic and there was no loss of power on the dyno, just had a quick re-map to adjust a small amount of midrange.
Recently did a test between a 15" and a 18". RS3 full system. The 15" had better low and Mid range. The 18" was better for mid and upper. Length of pipe changes flow patterns. For around town or short tracks the 15" will give you better torque. 18" for long straights above 11.5K. This is purely based on our tests.