So this thing has the capability to do all the same funtions as a powercommander with the autotune addon? It can do that AND be the most incredibly useful diagnosis tool around?!
So this thing has the capability to do all the same funtions as a powercommander with the autotune addon? It can do that AND be the most incredibly useful diagnosis tool around?!
Yeah. You can thank Justin Woolich for that. He implemented the Autotune feature in ECUeditor, and it has worked better for my bike than the PCV or the Bazzaz units I had. It allows you to use aftermarket AFR controllers (I am using the Zeitronix ZT-3). when more people on this forum are using it, I will start an ECUeditor how to thread explaining all the reasons I feel it is superior, and what I have learned. I really feel it will be the most useful tuning tool for our bikes. Also, I have some really nice .bin files I can share that are sure to please
Hey Mike, sorry don't have time to read back through all these posts looking for it. You have the SDS tool right? Did you use it to look at the ECU logged data to try and figure your issue. I read another post, it may have been yours, where someone had a faulty IAP sensor but it wasn't throwing a code, the SDS tool picked it up in the logs though.
Hey Mike, sorry don't have time to read back through all these posts looking for it. You have the SDS tool right? Did you use it to look at the ECU logged data to try and figure your issue. I read another post, it may have been yours, where someone had a faulty IAP sensor but it wasn't throwing a code, the SDS tool picked it up in the logs though.
No. I don't have an SDS. I almost pulled the trigger a bunch of times, but really all I would be able to do with it that I can't with other things is adjust idle (and I don't think that is far from implementation in ECUeditor). I think it was rraiderr who used it to log data. I have a healtech OBD tool that gives me the same data, but now I just use ECUeditor since it is more consistent. It's one of the reasons I am pushing for more people on the site to start using it (ECUeditor), so we can share real data, and not just throw parts at the bikes blindly.
I'd say that's the first thing Suzuki dealer service should be doing when they see this problem.
I'll be looking at the ECU Editor for a K1 1000 as soon as I get the damn thing rebuilt. I'll get the ECU plugs and do a re-wire on the wiring loom.
On another note from a previous thread, I have now removed the STV shaft out of my k7 750 throttle bodies. Made up a small shaft for the STP sensor and servo. Hope to get them back on this weekend. Was running it with the shaft but plates out.
Now that I can properly tune for it, I'm gonna put my throttle bodies back in that have the secondaries out. I have wondered if the best things is to have the secondaries in but open to 93% (supposed to give the best flow at 93%). Seems like it would stabilize air turbulance for the upper injectors. When we get the ability to adjust the STP maps with ECUeditor, I will try it both ways.
Read this thread start to finish, and you will realize that no one has solved these issues for a couple of reasons. One; no one knows if there is a common problem, or if this is a common symptom to many problems. Two; there has not been a good way to get real sensor data while the bike is running/being ridden, to compare good values to the bad values and find the culprit.
I hardly consider it an infomercial to educate some people on FREE software that can actually pinpoint the problem with hard data from the ECU. No doubt, I am in the ECUeditor cheering section (and have been for years), but it has just become useful to us thanks to Justin Woolich @ woolichracing.com volunteering his time to add our ECU to the software. Wanted to make sure people know this.
So, smart ass, your turn to tell me how it does not relate to the reason for this thread or
Did anyone solve this one yet? I think I have a fix that's working for my bike, and I'm hoping a couple other people can try it out to verify. First the fix, and then the theory:
Possible fix: Wrap the electrical inputs to the secondary fuel injectors with electrical tape to keep water out
The theory: I keep my bike in a car port with a cover on it. I noticed that I was only having this problem when the cover had been on the bike overnight. If I left the cover off, no problems. Also, when the engine warmed up to some point, or I just jumped on the bike and rode for a block, everything was fine. Finally, when running rough, it was also running rich. Cover + engine temp = moisture. Running rich = ignition (not firing) of fuel injection (too much fuel in a cylinder). My current theory, which seems to be working so far for my K9, is that warm moist air rising off the engine is condensing on the bottom of the gas tank overnight, and somehow getting into the base of the leads to the secondary fuel injectors, and somehow causing excessive fuel dump into one or two of the cylinders. If you lift your tank and look at the wires going into the secondary injectors, you'll notice they don't seem to be moisture proofed where they go into the injector plug, and they also point "up" towards the base of the gas tank.
I did this about two weeks ago, and haven't had a problem since. Somebody else try it and let me know if you have similar results.
Did anyone solve this one yet? I think I have a fix that's working for my bike, and I'm hoping a couple other people can try it out to verify. First the fix, and then the theory:
Possible fix: Wrap the electrical inputs to the secondary fuel injectors with electrical tape to keep water out
The theory: I keep my bike in a car port with a cover on it. I noticed that I was only having this problem when the cover had been on the bike overnight. If I left the cover off, no problems. Also, when the engine warmed up to some point, or I just jumped on the bike and rode for a block, everything was fine. Finally, when running rough, it was also running rich. Cover + engine temp = moisture. Running rich = ignition (not firing) of fuel injection (too much fuel in a cylinder). My current theory, which seems to be working so far for my K9, is that warm moist air rising off the engine is condensing on the bottom of the gas tank overnight, and somehow getting into the base of the leads to the secondary fuel injectors, and somehow causing excessive fuel dump into one or two of the cylinders. If you lift your tank and look at the wires going into the secondary injectors, you'll notice they don't seem to be moisture proofed where they go into the injector plug, and they also point "up" towards the base of the gas tank.
I did this about two weeks ago, and haven't had a problem since. Somebody else try it and let me know if you have similar results.
I have been following this forum for awhile now. I too have a 750 k9 gsxr with this same exact problem. Out of everything I have read, I really think Sam is on to something here. I knew from the moment my problem first started and reading into it on the forums that it will be a simple fix (at least I hoped) in the end. So fare this problem has been everything but simple. I am gonna call up my fail local dealership and pitch them this idea. Since they pretty much tried almost eveything atp. If anyone does do Sam D's idea can you please post back and let us know how it worked out for you.
So, smart ass, your turn to tell me how it does not relate to the reason for this thread or
Whoa whoa whoa. I realize sarcasm and humor often get lost in translation over the web, apologies but you took what i said all wrong. I was simply poking fun at this post:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Varinn
So this thing has the capability to do all the same funtions as a powercommander with the autotune addon? It can do that AND be the most incredibly useful diagnosis tool around?!
The way that read to me was straight off late late night TV commercials for a new As Seen On TV product lol.
Sam, I am not saying you not onto something here - but - the connectors do have waterproofing seals on them. A careful look over all the connectors to make sure the seals do have waterproofing integrity is a good idea.
As far as injectors go, or spark plugs - any connector that is an output connector (out of ECU) is less likely a culprit than an input connector - such as IAP, IAT, APS. The reason is that the outputs are much lower impedance and less likely to be affected by a slight change in resistance than the inputs. Even still a lot of the inputs are around 10kΩ or less so still unlikely. Corrosion is a definite yes.
Again I stress not saying it isn't, however careful fault finding is required.
Again I stress not saying it isn't, however careful fault finding is required.
I'm not totally convinced either, but haven't had a problem since applying the tape. I've been starting up the bike every morning expecting it to go back to sucking, but so far so good. I am convinced the root of the problem is moisture getting into an electrical component either in the ignition or fuel injection paths. These particular connectors were just the most obvious ones I came across. I'll re-post if the problem comes back. Anyways, I'm still hoping someone else does the same and posts the results.
I thought about this a bit too, and I was stumped as to how a bad connection can affect something modulated with pulse width (PWM). Unless I don't understand it as well as i think I do, PWM modulated injectors could only flow less as the connection gets worse (kwaka10r, rraiderr, correct me if I am wrong here). Now, if something was sticking the injector open, that could be, but I don't see how water in the electrical connections at the top could do that. I do think that logged ECU data during the problem will tell us volumes. We could actually see injector voltages etc. I love the ideas coming in though. It may turn out to be something strange like this that pinpoints the fix.
Moisture getting into a sensor or plug coil is a definite possibility. So the connector keeps it out more than likely but it's getting in some other way. Possibly a bad batch of something. The thing is though that most of the sensors and plug coils are used on other models so you would expect the problem showing up there as well. Maybe it is but no one has drawn a solid connection.
Sam, you may be right about condensation, the reason why may be a little less clear. I'd be getting hold of an SDS tool, logging it dry and then logging it wet when the problem occurs and see if a sensor is showing up in the log doing something screwy.
I suppose you could do the opposite and take the tape of the connectors, disconnect them, wet them, put them back together and see if it plays up.
Miken, if the injector had a bad connection from corrosion you'd expect it to throw a code. If it is moisture across the connection and it's fresh water it would be in the 100s of kΩ to MΩ so it is unlikely to affect the injector or ECU.
But never rule anything out, if it is it may be missed. Sometimes the reason can be perfectly clear once it is known, but because it was never expected it may never be tested and the fault remains elusive.
Thanks rraiderr. A bag of dog shit is about the only thing no one has tried yet
Linear Mode
