Since my last post on this got deleated... here it is again: all the info you should need to swap a new generation instrument cluster to your SRAD
PS: to get rid of the "CHECK" Fi light on the 98-99 750's try using the 96-97 radiators since it has a rad-mounted thermostat... you will have to extend the wires on the harness... it might fix the problem since it did when I did my 1k-swap
The connector is the same on both models of bikes...If you look at the connector you will see at the top were the wires go in that it opens up. After you open up the two plastic pieces you can use a safety pin from the other side to lift the tab in the connector to free each of the pins. Its tricky but I did it. NO CUT WIRES...Then just put them in there new locations.
COLOR PINOUT on 2001 instrument cluster (I hope they are both the same :
2. 12v Constant
3. Black / Yellow
4. Light Green
6. Green / Yellow
7. Black / Green
10. Black / Brown or White (hard to tell what color it is.)
12. Orange / Red
14. Red / Black
15. Black / Light Green
what i need to know is the following things so i can start
1. what wire did you use for the 12v constant and how did you put it in ie: solder, splice it?
2. can you mount it on the old gsxr gauge mounts?
a56kuser, here are the answers to your questions:
1. I wired the 12v constant directly to the positive connector on the battery. Very simple to route the wires.
2. You can't mount the old gauges to the old mount unless you just zip-tie them or frabricate a bracket. Luckily I have a diagram that you can use to create one yourself. It is very simple and easy to do.. all you need is a little patience. Here is a picture of it.
Here is a link to download the PDF of the diagram. Let me know if you need any help!
The pin #'s on the wire side (connector) are not "right" when compared to the info here -- the info here is "right" if you look at the suzuki manual. If you look at the connector, it's got 4 numbers "1....8" on one side and "9....16" on the other -- when looking at the connector, the #'s are actually swapped when compared to the manual (pin 1 on the connector is 8 in the manual) Otherwise, it worked with only a minor hitch (see next post)
When I 1st made the cable; I put the "pins" in the holes of the connector based on the #'s on the connector -- this is wrong; it's reversed -- the pins # are for the gauge; not the connector; try reversing them... (ie 1 - 9 on one side, 10 - 18 on the other --- 1 = 10 and 9=18)
Now; that being said; the original project that started this was never really completed... I printed the diagram & paid to have the mount main w/o 1st checking it -- the PDF file shrunk it a little; so check it and if needed; use a copy machine to increase it in size.
Lastly; I had two problems: FI light was on and fuel light was on, even tho neither should have been. I'm suspecting that in older models the loop was "open" normaly; and in the newer it's "closed" normally -- that's just a guess tho -- I haven't revisited that --- YET.. I probably will this winter.
Try reversing the pins and let us know how you proced.
You can PM me if you want.