I like to use the pass switch. If you choose that route. Take the left hand switch assembly apart and and test the 2 solder joints on the pass button. One should be hot when the key is on and the other should become hot when you press the switch. Cut the wire that trips with the switch and solder a new piece ow wire onto it and run it to post 85 on the relay, post 86 on the relay grounded to battery, post 30 to positive side of battery, post 87 to positive side of compressor, ground compressor to battery as well. Do not ground anything to the frame, it will cause issues in the bikes electrial system. If you don't want to use the pass switch just get a momentary switch and run power to it and then back to post 85 on the relay(bascially just substitute this switch for the pass switch)
i don't think you even need a relay to wire up the air compressor. if i remember correctly gsxrstephen did mine by running a wire from the battery to an ON/OFF switch and a wire from the ON/OFF switch to the compressor. the switch came off of the original compressor and it fits perfectly in one of the holes of the subframe.
i think this is the compressor he used. the button is on the side and says "Compressor ON/OFF" which looks pretty trick on the bike. just take the compressor out of the shell, cut the wires off the ON/OFF button, cut the valve off the hose so you can run your air shifter line into it and ziptie it tight with a few zipties.
i think, but i don't remember. i haven't seen my for 2 weeks.
I like to use the pass switch. If you choose that route. Take the left hand switch assembly apart and and test the 2 solder joints on the pass button. One should be hot when the key is on and the other should become hot when you press the switch. Cut the wire that trips with the switch and solder a new piece ow wire onto it and run it to post 85 on the relay, post 86 on the relay grounded to battery, post 30 to positive side of battery, post 87 to positive side of compressor, ground compressor to battery as well. Do not ground anything to the frame, it will cause issues in the bikes electrial system. If you don't want to use the pass switch just get a momentary switch and run power to it and then back to post 85 on the relay(bascially just substitute this switch for the pass switch)
WOW I never even thought of doing it to the Pass Button, you really are a wiring genius LOL. Thanks Alot
I hate u wiring guys you make it sound so fucking easy LOL
d3oy, yes if you use the switch on the compressor not need for the relay. The relay is just so you can use a light duty momentary switch like the pass button. I put relays on nearly everything on a bike now just to be on the safe side. Burnt too much stuff up. The big plus to the relay is you don't have to worry about burning up the with due to too much heat. Plus the pass button is just trick and easy to fill back up after the run or even in the burn out box if you forgot to fill it, you can be filling until the last second and don't have to flip a swith.
Just so everyone knows, on race only bikes you can use lots of the handle bar switches. The pass button will work and the left and right turn signals as switches. But the hazard switch will not work because the flasher is built into the switch. The turn signal is a really stealth way to arm a hidden nitrous system. Just turn the left turn signal switch on and go fast. While your waiting turn the right turn signal switch on and have a bottle heater turned on. Pass switch the air compressor. Starter button for nitrous activation. And the starter button can be set up so that when you arm the nitrous you use a 5 post relay and it automatically changes the starter button to nitrous when you activate it. No switches anywhere.
Just so everyone knows, on race only bikes you can use lots of the handle bar switches. The pass button will work and the left and right turn signals as switches. But the hazard switch will not work because the flasher is built into the switch. The turn signal is a really stealth way to arm a hidden nitrous system. Just turn the left turn signal switch on and go fast. While your waiting turn the right turn signal switch on and have a bottle heater turned on. Pass switch the air compressor. Starter button for nitrous activation. And the starter button can be set up so that when you arm the nitrous you use a 5 post relay and it automatically changes the starter button to nitrous when you activate it. No switches anywhere.
Hey im gonna use a 5 prong relay instead of the 4, can you help me again with the wiring for it LOL
Ima wire this shiot up tonight to the pass button.....
Hey when I cut the Wire for the pass switch do I hook up the pass switch again or no?
So basically if im thinking right I cut the wire and then solder a new piece to that wire run it to 85 and leave the pass switch that i cut off loose?
Fuck I hate wiring LOL
i have my hazard switch hooked up as my arm switch for my nos, i didnt do it my builder did, my pass buton is my purge, and i bypassed the key and the on off switch is the switch for that.
All wired up and works great thanks for the help, now I know how a relay works its pretty fucking simple LOL.
My boy was going through everything with me too hes like u a wiring nut wired his whole Turbo mustang from scratch
Jason, you're everywhere dude. I appreciate all the info you've given on various forums. Quick question for ya. This year, I'm tryin to get the black/red 06 into the lower nines. Got a arm, MPS air shifter, etc. Does anyone know which wire to splice into for horn activation. I have wiring diagram for bike and can't determine if it's the Black w/Blue tracer wire from horn button, Orange w/Green tracer from horn itself, or Black w/White tracer wire I'm supposed to splice into for Red wire on Electronic Kill Box. Please help ASAP.
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